[dave]

science friction at apremont:





el poussah:



I fucking despair, I really do.  

[Fingers of a Martyr]

edit: sorry, stupid question

also, is that film on the internet anywhere carnage?

[Carnage]

Thats fucking unbelievable.  :evil:

On the subject of chipping heres an intereseting snippet. There was a slide/movie show held in Sydney recently by local strongman James Scarborough. In the movie he and Dave Graham were working a new problem in Switzerland somewhere. Its whereabouts etc are only known to a few people, DG, JS, some guy who was with them and a certain German Gaskins-Slagger who shall remain nameless.

DG sends the problem and and JS cotinues working it the next few days. He then takes a days rest and returns, only to find it has been chipped! Cue close up of trashed holds with yellow marks around them (from a screw-driver handle evidently). He phones DG who comes racing over to inspect the damage. Then (all on screen) they go through who knows about the problem etc. The only person who knew about it and could not be accounted for is the above German Wad. DG is adamant that is was said Wad that chipped his problem and is quite happy to name and shame on the movie.

 :x  :x  :x  :x  :x

[Huffy]

and a certain German Gaskins-Slagger

Get a life :roll:

[Carnage]

I dunno Fingers - This was the flyer:



And its not the movie 24/8 as thats just Oz probs.

[Bonjoy]

The chip on SF was there in March, but the EP one is new :evil: . Surely those sorts of chips would be really easy to fill in, i'm surprise this hasn't already been done on the SF one.

EDIT: Fuck, just noticed there are two chips on SF. There was only one back in March.

[Bubba]

Fucking disgrace.

Grades and big egos? Or ignorant punters? Who knows?

[dave]

dutch master killa said that the SF ones were there back in december. what amazes me is that firstly these have been there for months and have not been filled in pronto by the locals, and secondly that two of the most famous and popular boulder problems in the world have been blatantly chipped some time ago and yet its not all over the internet and mags as soon as it happens, do people just not give a shit anymore? why aren't the french kicking up a fuss?

[jonP]

Wasn't Science Friction chipped by the mad guy several years ago? I tried El Poussah about a month ago & didn't noticed any chipped holds.

[dave]

i dunno if SF was done by the mentalist - thought he was down for knocking holds off rather than chipping new holds to make stuff eaasier though.

The chip on EP seems to have knocked off that slight ridge on the sloper though, which may have made it harder (dunno for sure ddin't try it).

[Bubba]

Wasn't Science Friction chipped by the mad guy several years ago? I tried El Poussah about a month ago & didn't noticed any chipped holds.

Don't think so - here's an old report:

Crazed vandal destroys Fontainebleau's classic boulder problems
Fontainebleau is in mourning. No one has died, but some of the area's best problems have been terribly vandalized. The action was deliberate and premeditated, targeting a handful of classics in two of the most popular areas.

At Cuvier, holds have been hammered off Fatman, Antithèse, Infidèle, Carnage, Boucherie. The extent of the damage varies. On Carnage and Boucherie only the first holds have been destroyed, but Fatman, the first 8b (V13) in the Forest, has been almost completely obliterated -- only the first one-finger pocket remains. At Apremont two famous 7a's (V5s) have been attacked; Médaille en Chocolat and La Dalle du Dromadaire are now totally unclimbable.

The vandal is known. Tragically, he is a fervent climber and Fontainebleau-goer -- although his action did not stem from any incident in the Forest. Described as psychologically fragile, "Luc" (locals do not want release his second name at this time for fear of reprisals) had worked for two years at a rock gym in nearby Melun. According to users of the gym, he felt he was being exploited and possibly underpaid, and allegedly started stealing holds and other items from the premises. When the gym owners confronted him, he became angry and threatened to "break everything in the Forest." Later the owners filed a complaint with the police and Luc carried out his threat. The day after the complaint, Luc went to the boulders with a hammer. Several climbers witnessed his actions but were unable to intervene. Luc is muscular and was allegedly armed and trailed by a large dog.

[Greg C]

Carnage Quote:
and a certain German Gaskins-Slagger


Huffy Quote: Get a life

Funny thats what I thought when that German prick slated Gaskins!

[Huffy]

It's a fair point Greg.

Climbing bitchiness in general jus pisses me off.

[squeek]

I didn't notice a chip on El Poussah when we were there, which was the first week in October.

I didn't see Fatman before it was chipped, but although any undercuts/crimps/sidepulls might have been chipped off there's still 2 good finger jams and an undercut on the right side of the roof and was surprised when someone said it was deemed to be impossible by some locals.  Has the top been chipped too?
Obviously I'm not saying I could ever do it or get near to it, or am going to try it...etc

[dave]

wasn't there some other 8b problem on the fatman roof, gourmandise or summert? I woulnd't pay much attention to claims of things being impossible in general, like the above quote qhere medaille was claimed to be "totally unclimbable", where in fact not only is it climbable but its exactly the same grade it was before......

the chip on EP does look fairly fresh. and not in a good way.

[Huffy]

Fatman has been climbed since the chipping, 8b i think.

[Duma]

Was at Isatis in late Sept, and El Poussah looked fine then.

[Scouse D]

Was at Isatis in late Sept, and El Poussah looked fine then.

The point is, it is chipped now

[Bonjoy]

From Bleau site translated by the Babelfish mangler:

another solution [ Fr ] posted by nico5 ~ 03.11.2005 16:57 _ it there be I believe a kind of boss and it have be break by the effort superhuman. while perhaps breaking this is ellequi left this trace which resssemble with a size

 I think he is suggesting that a bit has flaked of and it isn't a chipping. Looking at Daves pic it's hard to tell, but he might have a point.

[dave]

i think it would be a truly jawdropping effort to not only accidentally break off a slight ridge on a sloper, but to also do it to leave a textbook chisel mark, whilst leaving all other holds at the crag untouched. I'm not saying its impossible, just well unlikely!

[sto]

Does anyone know which holds were chipped on Science Friction?

I was on it last Friday and it kind of looked the same as I remember it from a few years ago: LF in vertical seam, get RF and then LF on ramp, LF up to good crimp, RF up to scum, LF up to scum, step up precariously and go for top with LH. And here I was thinking it felt easier b/c of the Galileos!

Someone told me some handholds had actually been made worse but I didn't notice that.

I do remember the small ridge on the good sloper on El Poussah starting to erode as early as Nov. 2004. clearly leaving a somewhat crumblier bit.

[dave]

Does anyone know which holds were chipped on Science Friction?

.........

 LF in vertical seam, get RF and then LF on ramp, LF up to good crimp chip, RF up to scum, LF up to scum, step up precariously and go for top with LH.