[Duma]

M - 12 hr shift.
T - eve, TCA, 90 min. Whites blacks and blues, mostly vert ish. 10 problems, did 8, 4 flashes, 2 quick, 2 a bit of work. Didn't manage either of the 2 blues, but one is def worth a bit more effort.
W - eve, TCA, 120 min. Whites blacks and blues, mostly steep. 7 problems, did 2, lots of flailing on 3, 2 from last week still can't do. Lacklustre session, golfers worse than normal, maybe the steepness, maybe karma for overreacting to tony being a knob.
T - free day but no psyche. Eve, run, 8k. Half flat pavement, half hilly trail, took it slow. 50 min. Felt better for it.
F -
S - bit of a walk with daughter but barely counts tbh
S - eve, run, 6k, hilly, trail, 35 min. Meadows are really stunning at the moment.

71.5 kg.

[monkoffunk]

M - Yoga.
T - Yoga
W - Gym. First time this month! Saw a PT to sort out my deadlifts. Really very helpful. Lots of big tweaks to form. Did 3 lots of 3 at 100kg with no strain in the lower back at all. Will focus on getting the form wired for few weeks and then start pushing the weight. Then weighted back extensions followed by hamstring curls to supplement, both new to me. Pretty psyched after.
Yoga.
T - Yoga.
F - Morning elbow physio session, cut very short be early awakening of child. Yoga.
S - Proper physio session including one arm locks with heavy assistance. Yoga.
S - 6k morning run. Easy to get up for blue skies and sun by the beach.  Yoga. Some one arm foot on crimp pulls.

Good week. More rest for the injured hand/finger. Seems better now. Back to fingers next week. Maybe a bit of climbing later in the month. Back to work tomorrow after a month of shared parental leave.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - AM as usual; PM bentover rows, high pulls, pull ups.
Tue - DL 531 week 8. GM with pause, high pulls, abs.
Wed - AM as usual; PM farmer's.
Thu - AM as usual; PM board climbing, good but sharp pain at right DIP index finger joint. I blame those front2 crimp hangs.
Fri - weights.
Sat - bentover rows, high pull, pull ups, abs.
Sun - boxing bag.
Maybe - and I underline maybe - I have found a bit of a sweet spot between training psyche and recovery. Maybe.

[Fultonius]

I've been slacking of late, in both training terms and logging terms!

Been getting outside about once a week and picked up a short term project at Dunkeld to break up the longer term sieges.

On Friday I got up The Vibes at Myopics Buttress, Dunkeld. 3rd session, not really my style been steep and powerful/shouldery. Session 1 (well, session 2 since I tried it about 12 years ago and nearly did it on day 1) was figuring out moves. Managed all, but no good links.

Session 2 with a mate who has also been working it showed a different method for the crux (opposing gastons vs big cross through, I'd tried both, settled on the cross through). Few goes with method one before switching to method 2. Got to the crux a few times but just powered out  mid move.

Went back on Friday after climbing on Thursday at Balgone in poor conditions. Struggling with skin a bit so tried rhino performance...? Placebo?

Anyway, Friday, good conditions. Got the clips in, fairly stead to crux but just got locked midway through crux with lack of shoulder power / momentum / positioning.

Next go was steady and I fairly cruised it.

First 7c in 2 years, and good to do one that's a bit anti-style, especially since I'm 10kg heavier than when I last tried!

[Duma]

Nice one Fultonius!

[Aussiegav]

A much needed week away on family vacation

Monday -

Went to Peter Dale on a solo session late in the afternoon. Used microtraxion for the first time. Had to do a bit of jiggery pockery to work out a system that worked best. Very pleased with it.
Went out to check the moves on Ecole d'Escalade 7a. I went up the 6a to its left, Dunce. Got the line setup & cleaned the holds etc. came down and then climbed it.
Shares the same belay as Ecole d'Escalade. Worked that for around 40mins. Absolutely desperate and very hard for the grade. Came away unable to do 2 moves.


Tuesday
Fly to Ibiza. Got in around 11pm

Wednesday
200m open water swim

Thursday
200m open water swim

Friday
5x 3 7:3 body weight repeaters on Ash portable board
250m open water swim

Saturday
250m open water swim went to Cala Saladeta. Apparently it’s close to a crag called Ses Fontanelles. Should have had a look when I was there.

Sunday
5x 3 7:3 body weight repeaters on Ash portable board
250m open water swim


Loving the weather and relaxing atmosphere in Ibiza.
Swimming everyday, forgot how much I loved being at the beach and in the warm sun.

[SA Chris]

after climbing on Thursday at Balgone in poor conditions.

OT, but what's that like? I remember having a brief look when passing through when I ran the JMWU and it all looked a bit dark, dismal and dirty. And good job on sealing the deal on The Vibes!

[duncan]

Good effort Fultonius!

M - Zenor Cliff (a new crag to me) - The Royal Forester whilst the heavens opened. Wet, lichenous greenstone is quite a challenging medium to climb on. Drove to Exmoor to meet up with multiple generations of family.

T - Exmoor circuit including Dunkery Beacon (c.10km). Hip flexibility: prone frog stretch, standing pancake stretch, sumo squats.

W - Walked around Wistlandpound Reservoir (c.16 km); saw Great Crested Grebes, Cormorants, Song Thrushes, Wrens, Yellow Wagtails, Buzzards, and a stoat. Hip flexibility.

T - Walked around Dunster (c.10km). Hip flexibility.

F - Drove up to Ogwen. Craig Caseg Fraith Isaf (another new crag, though very familiar surroundings) with The Writer. Did Recess Right Hand (the world’s hardest HS: surely HVS?), The Bulge and Llech, all very good.

S - Craig y Clipiau with The Seamstress. Did Achael with the Eagle Finish, Inverted Staircase, and the excellent Great Feat/Mean Feat combination. Had the quintessential Llanberis-on-a-busy-Saturday dining experience: The usual suspects in town were rammed and turning people away, Y Fricsan pizza had sold out. Resorted to fish and chips from a pub in Llanrug which were spectacularly bad and, at £17, possibly the worst value meal I’ve had for a long time. 

S - Penmaenbach Quarry (A mini Avon Gorge reformed out of diorite (?), also new to me though the climbing style was very familiar) with The Seamstress and The Writer. Had a cold and was not feeling at my most dynamic. Routes to 6b including the very good Work-Life Balance.

Another good week with three new crags, two new climbing partners, and a classic Welsh E1 that is still completely unpolished.
Elbow loves this kind of climbing and is 95% better. Now time to try a bit harder.

[Fultonius]

after climbing on Thursday at Balgone in poor conditions.

It's actually quite good climbing on not very good rock, in quite a nice ambience. No point having long term projects as the holds will be different each session.

Good range of grades, decent bolting (if maybe a bitty iffy have expansion bolts in wheetabix). Been twice and would go again, just not after heavy rain.

Vibes. Cheers. I guess being 40+ getting up anything remotely hard should be welcomed 

OT, but what's that like? I remember having a brief look when passing through when I ran the JMWU and it all looked a bit dark, dismal and dirty. And good job on sealing the deal on The Vibes!

[Fiend]

Vibes: F7c
Getting the UKB quote system right: F8b+

Good effort Puntonious, that has a lot of resonance for me (especially the weight bit) as I did VibesRH during the shitty post-norovirus summer of 2018 where everyone was fucking off into the hills and sport projects were the only thing I could cope with mentally and logistically - and had fun doing it, and ended up strong enough to have the last great trad period I've had (now 6 years ago...). Similar vibes with number of sessions and having to look after my skin, and getting it in good connies.



For those who are interested, imagine someone a few inches taller, probably with a top on, and going more direct after the roof (I think I chose RH cos I either prefered the line or it was easier to strip)

My week: A bit better, did some bloques.

[mr chaz]

Power Club:

M.
T.
W. Evening board session - had basically a 2 week break before this, including a short holiday. Decent session, but didn't max out as all I wanted was recruitment for the weekend.
T. Felling pretty 
F. Headed to N. Wales after work, night in the van.
S. Craig Nant Y Fedw - new crag for me. Warmed up and got straight on Spiderpig 7A - made it through to standing high up with the prominent left sidepull, but couldn't figure out where to go next. Looks like I just needed to work feet up higher from that position to more or less reach the top. Maybe next time - moved on quickly due to midges. Tried a handful of problems at Unclingables - failed at the reachy 7B (this hoover sucks?), did the good 6B+ after falling from the final throw and got close on JC4PM but was powered out. Got back to the van feeling somewhat exhausted.
S. Family day out and a picnic.

Really good to be bouldering in North Wales again, despite the baking sun, midges and feeling a bit under the weather. I've had something viral that's been rumbling along for a few weeks now and I was definitely feeling it on Saturday, was pretty exhausted just after walking in with pads. Got to meet some new faces and saw an old friend too, so that was nice.

[Fiend]

S. Craig Nant Y Fedw - new crag for me. Warmed up and got straight on Spiderpig 7A - made it through to standing high up with the prominent left sidepull, but couldn't figure out where to go next. Looks like I just needed to work feet up higher from that position to more or less reach the top. Maybe next time - moved on quickly due to midges. Tried a handful of problems at Unclingables - failed at the reachy 7B (this hoover sucks?), did the good 6B+ after falling from the final throw and got close on JC4PM but was powered out. Got back to the van feeling somewhat exhausted.

I'd concur, a bit committing but okay (9:42 below). That slab and Cirque are pretty opposite directions for the wind so I hope the latter was good - it;s a bloody lovely spot eh!

https://youtu.be/IfeePvVGjQs?si=LbzXK2hB9lYF2lHI&t=582

[mr chaz]

S. Craig Nant Y Fedw - new crag for me. Warmed up and got straight on Spiderpig 7A - made it through to standing high up with the prominent left sidepull, but couldn't figure out where to go next. Looks like I just needed to work feet up higher from that position to more or less reach the top. Maybe next time - moved on quickly due to midges. Tried a handful of problems at Unclingables - failed at the reachy 7B (this hoover sucks?), did the good 6B+ after falling from the final throw and got close on JC4PM but was powered out. Got back to the van feeling somewhat exhausted.

I'd concur, a bit committing but okay (9:42 below). That slab and Cirque are pretty opposite directions for the wind so I hope the latter was good - it;s a bloody lovely spot eh!

https://youtu.be/IfeePvVGjQs?si=LbzXK2hB9lYF2lHI&t=582

Yeah a nice spot, wind only really got up enough towards the end of the afternoon to keep them away. I'll be returning for Spiderpig and JC4PM though, both lovely problems.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Sick club...

M: Bed - Managed to drag myself out for a walk 
T: Bed - Managed to drag myself in front of the computer for a couple of hrs 
W: Bit better - Took my boy and his 2 mates to the wall for a few hrs - wiped out 
T: Work then sleep...
F: London
S: London
S: London

Shit week - feeling pretty much better now tho. Back on it....

[SA Chris]

M - rotor cuff still feeling tweaky from DIY on weekend, but had a light boulder session on board at lunchtime and it didn't feel worse. Easy 12 km run.
T - Woke up with back feeling like something was "out". Anticipating something going wrong took it very easy all day, but sure enough pulled something in back picking up a T shirt, and whole of deltoid (I think) along spine pulled somehow and was agony. Hobbled about for most of evening, then lay in bath for an hour, Neurofen and bed.
W - woke up still in pain, but went to work, and got through day before  pain finally eased off.
T - felt better - managed a trail run at lunchtime, about 7km.
F - lifted some weight, felt OK.
S - not much, long walk on the beach with son, putting world to rights.
S - Bellamore Crag. Nice cool breeze on walk in but down over edge it was warm and damp, with lots of flies. 2nded HS (nails), 2nded S (manky) unashamedly toproped Wheatsheaf E4 5c clean, with eye to maybe headpointing, but microcams looked very very dubious so ran away. Shame, great climbing. led VS, 2nded HVS, soloed HS and Diff. Great day out, stunning views. Like to go back to lead classic E1 on a cooler day, looks amazing. Get back when Jules Lines' new Ballater guide comes out documenting all the bouldering too. 
     

[duncan]

Hip flexibility: prone frog stretch, standing pancake stretch, sumo squats.

I've been meaning to mention I have started to notice a marked improvement in hip flexibility. I've been stretching roughly every other day, 6 of each gradually increasing the duration to 90-120s, for about 2 and a bit months. Objectively I can't see much difference in the passive range but functionally I find myself doing high steps and rockovers more frequently without thinking about them. This was quite noticeable on the slabby Great Feat.

I'm in my mid-60s and have moderate-severe arthritis in both hips. If I can improve, almost anyone can improve.

Stretching is something constructive you can do with injured elbows/fingers/shoulders. It can be a mindfulness/breathing exercise too if you're that way inclined. Or just scroll through Insta if you prefer.

[Fultonius]

Nice one Fultonius!

Thanks. Need to stop shirking the harder projects now...

Getting the UKB quote system right: F8b+

 

Vibes: F7c

Good effort Puntonious, that has a lot of resonance for me (especially the weight bit) as I did VibesRH during the shitty post-norovirus summer of 2018 where everyone was fucking off into the hills and sport projects were the only thing I could cope with mentally and logistically - and had fun doing it, and ended up strong enough to have the last great trad period I've had (now 6 years ago...). Similar vibes with number of sessions and having to look after my skin, and getting it in good connies.

It's a good route for those with a bit of PE and nae stamina, which is the opposite of me this year - I was finding the start surprisingly draining on the first 2 sessions. I see you did the crux with method 1, the cross-through. I found it easier to get into that position, but then couldn't release my toe-hook and contain the swing energy. The double gaston helps with that but then it's a slightly harder move to the good pocket out left.

Thinking back to when I did most of my harder bouldering, and also probably when I did sufferance I was in the upper 70kg range, and got much leaner in Chamonix but actually lacked power on anything burly, but my all day endurance was great!  (no surprises there...). The main struggle now is that I seem to need to eat plenty to make any strength gains, but being 40+ losing it again is definitely harder than in was 10 years ago...   If I cut my intake I just get tired, grumpy and my metabolism just tanks in line with the drop of intake.

[csl]

Hip flexibility: prone frog stretch, standing pancake stretch, sumo squats.

I've been meaning to mention I have started to notice a marked improvement in hip flexibility. I've been stretching roughly every other day, 6 of each gradually increasing the duration to 90-120s, for about 2 and a bit months. Objectively I can't see much difference in the passive range but functionally I find myself doing high steps and rockovers more frequently without thinking about them. This was quite noticeable on the slabby Great Feat.

I'm in my mid-60s and have moderate-severe arthritis in both hips. If I can improve, almost anyone can improve.

Stretching is something constructive you can do with injured elbows/fingers/shoulders. It can be a mindfulness/breathing exercise too if you're that way inclined. Or just scroll through Insta if you prefer.

I’ve had a similar experience, I used to think there was no point stretching/mobility because I’ve been climbing for so long I’d have to deliberately relearn technique to use any of my new found flexibility.

I’ve made a bit of progress and still have a long way to go but have been surprised how I’ve unconsciously started using more flexible beta already.