[Resonate]

Not the best climbing day of the year, and i don't normally make a big deal of my (possible?) FAs but... The Magnificent Carswell Arete (V4/6A) went today and was bloody fantastic!







Can be found on the coast directly below Carswell Farm, a couple of miles east of Noss Mayo

Also, Stoke Beach confirmed as a pretty good venue... but only at exactly low tide: so many lines, so little time...

[account_inactive]

OMG

[webbo]

i think that arete needs a good waxing.

[Idol eyes]

Nice, north or south coast?

[Kingy]

Nice effort Resonate, my folks happen to live in Noss Mayo and I'm headin down this wkend so I may go and check this out. Any more projects/ potential at Carswell??
Is Stoke Beach the one about 1 mile away from Noss with the caravan park in the secluded bay that you go down a pretty steep lane to get to? I checked that out once before and there were some pretty funky schist aretes and stuff but as you say the sea level is a factor. Otherwise its the moor but forecast is lookin grim!!

[Kingy]

Nice, north or south coast?

Its South Devon Coast about 20 mins drive north of Plymouth

[Resonate]

Nice effort Resonate, my folks happen to live in Noss Mayo and I'm headin down this wkend so I may go and check this out. Any more projects/ potential at Carswell??
Is Stoke Beach the one about 1 mile away from Noss with the caravan park in the secluded bay that you go down a pretty steep lane to get to? I checked that out once before and there were some pretty funky schist aretes and stuff but as you say the sea level is a factor. Otherwise its the moor but forecast is lookin grim!!

You're dead right about Stoke Beach. loads of good bits and pieces, worth it if you've done most of the rest of the local stuff. Not a huge number of 'classic' lines tho enough to make the journey from plymouth.

Carswell is literally that one boulder, but there's a line to the left of the arete that's not been done and the steep face to the right, but they're both probably mildly eliminate and i wouldn't go there without a spotter if you paid me...

If you're about this weekend your best bet will probably be the barn as it's due to rain through and through =[
edit: weather seems 50/50 for the weekend, can't really advise you

[Kingy]

Cheers man, intriguing about this boulder as its 5mins away from where I'm going tomorrow!! I had always written off the area as having shite rock and drove the extra 40 mins to the moor. I may sneak down to Carswell and investigate....landing sounds a little on the gnarly side tho!! I will report back if I manage to make any impression on the beast and the lines on either side. Lets hope the weather plays ball!

[Resonate]

the landing's not that bad but it's really remote there so you're unlikely to get found if you couldn't walk out

[Kingy]

I did what may be the second ascent of the Magnificent Carswell Arete today after the rain cleared, grade confirmed. I added a sit start at no change in grade, tougher V4. A nice find, consider yourself suitably wadded! This is a nice isolated venue for locals, worth an hour or so's visit. I also added the following lines either side:

Honorary Gogarth V3 * Sit start the wall to the R of the arete. Steep sidepulls lead upwards to a slopey shelf covered in dry hoary mossy stuff. Reach up to a fragile looking sidepull with the left hand and then reach through to the top. Steep and juggy, make sure you don't explode off backwards if the sidepull blows as there is a boulder behind, it seems solid enough. The name comes from the green mossy stuff which is also found on the Upper Tier climbs at Gogarth.

Old Skool Waddage V7 *** Start as for the arete sit start. After 2 moves up, take the sidepull that Resonate has his left hand on in the 1st picture with your RH as a gaston. Reach a small sidepull for the LH and snatch up some small crimps on the wall. Reach a flat hold with your RH at the base of the left hand thin seam and fight up this to the top. The name comes from the old skool nature of the climbing on small edges and thin cracks. Video of this to follow once I get hold of the cable.

FA's both by me Ted Kingsnorth 24/3/08. These lines are not eliminates, as once on them you can't reach holds on the other problems.

Its worth noting that this small outcrop is situated on the coast path just above Carswell Cove GR 471 589. An approach should be made from the coast road 200m east of Eastern Lodge along the public footpath - the walk in is only 800m. A short cut should not be made through Carswell Farm as this is on private land and there is no right of way. I also checked out Carswell Tor which is wack for bouldering, too slabby and broken. Nice work, lets hope there's more in the area!