QuoteI think it's much more useful to think of training as 'stuff I do to get better at climbing', which can and should include lots of time on terrain similar to the stuff you want to improve on.I don't think that's useful at all. In response to the fact that the best training for climbing is climbing you're just reframing training to include climbing. Where does that leave climbing? Is the only 'proper' climbing then what you do on your project?The useful distinction to me is between praxis and practise. if you have limited opportunities to get out on rock, or have specific weaknesses you want to work, then training is useful. But doing the thing (praxis) will pretty much always trump doing an abstract reduction of the thing (practise).
I think it's much more useful to think of training as 'stuff I do to get better at climbing', which can and should include lots of time on terrain similar to the stuff you want to improve on.
Quote from: Johnny Brown on May 12, 2021, 11:56:52 amThe useful distinction to me is between praxis and practise.So what would you call doing laps (with our without timed rests) on a route outdoors?
The useful distinction to me is between praxis and practise.
I suspect it isn’t Steve who is confused as he knows what other ‘names’ get up to in terms of their on-rock/in-the-gym activity. However, the audience who are less in the know seeing a massive bias in content featuring feats of strength from top athletes might draw poor conclusions on how to improve. I think it’s good that Steve has stuck his head above the parapet in an attempt to redress the balance and ‘start a conversation’ as politicians say.
If Steve feels the need to step in to avoid impressionable youths getting the wrong idea then that’s taking a pretty dim view of people’s intelligence.
The gym I've been climbing at this year is full of bright eyed, psyched 20 somethings who've typically been climbing for a year or two, largely indoors, and have simply shocking technique. Its common for these kids to ask me if they would be better off campusing, fingerboarding or working on their cores in their quest for improvement.
Quote from: jwi on May 12, 2021, 12:45:44 pmQuote from: Johnny Brown on May 12, 2021, 11:56:52 amThe useful distinction to me is between praxis and practise.So what would you call doing laps (with our without timed rests) on a route outdoors?Show ponying
If indoor climbing can't be training then I must have done those hour long ARC sessions for the pure joy of it. Even I've not got that high a boredom threshold
Back to the seriousness. Surely outdoor climbing is something that you do when having a rest day from foot on campussing?
I've had a few of the old Steve: "I've not climbed or trained for a month" Me: "hmm, thought I saw you at the tor last week and the foundry the week before that"interactions in the past. I think Steve is definitely prone to using artistic licence with his lack of climbing and/or training at times.
They would all be infinitely better off doing a bunch of 5.10/.11's than mucking about on a fingerboard. Some of them employ coaches who they see through zoom and who design 'personalized' training regimens for them... It's a farce really, and that seems to be what Mclure is railing against.
JB: so training is only training if it's fundamentally different to the core activity. I.e. marathon runners aren't training when they go running, and road cyclists aren't training if they're on a bike. Only when they go swimming or to the gym. I certainly wouldn't use the term in that way, because I don't think it's actually instructive of, well, anything. If indoor climbing can't be training
then I must have done those hour long ARC sessions for the pure joy of it. Even I've not got that high a boredom threshold
Exercise and training are two different things. Exercise is physical activity for its own sake, a workout done for the effect it produces today, during the workout or right after you’re through. Training is physical activity done with a longer-term goal in mind, the constituent workouts of which are specifically designed to produce that goal. If a program of physical activity is not designed to get you stronger or faster or better conditioned by producing a specific stress to which a specific desirable adaptation can occur, you don’t get to call it training. It is just exercise. For most people, exercise is perfectly adequate – it’s certainly better than sitting on your ass.
I'd disagree. JB's activities certainly have their benefit but you can't claim any form of structure or goal (or certainly one I've ever heard him articulate)