[nai]

M - Roche with Dolly. First time out for two weeks since back issues. Started on Gypsy for first time, pretty tentative but as most problems seem to involve standing on a ledge arching your back maybe it wasn't a good call. Much better at Beef, could givr Justice a proper go having a spot but didn't managed to complete it. Had a good work of the moves on Faithless Right Hand, which I found easier then the original, but ran out of beans

T - Quicky to Burbage, plan A was Blind Ali but Remergence was busy so it was a case of what was free. Setlled on Little Brown Thug LH which I was relieved to manage before putting a tip through on the sharp start holds.

wth nowt

F - Stanage Middle with tt and Dolly. Left them to it on Spring Voyage and just did a few laps of the lovely Groove instead. Best problem on the block by a mile.
Youngsters Wall felt impossible for me (at anything like the grade at least) but the tall folk sensed a soft tick, luckily Tom did it straight away and Dolly quite soon after and we could move on.
Jamie's Roof suited me much better, Dolly was doing ok but Tom wasn't getting anywhere. I felt close but the slopers were full in the sun so we headed to the Other Roof hoping the encroaching clouds would help when we returned.
Other Roof went very quickly for me, Dolly gave up quite quickly and Tom put in a big effort to manage it.
Dolly and I returned to JR but despite the clouds we couldn't stick like previously and after a couple of attempts a bried shower ended play.
Walked along the edge looking for something else but ended up calling it a day
S back quite sore
S a few long hangs, BW for 25s on 20mm edge

[Yossarian]

2 weeks

M - Started max hangs session but arms felt wrecked from over zealous post-lockdown wall sessions the previous week. Went to the wall as daughter had squad and obvs didn’t do the sensible thing and rest.
T
W - 7 mile run in the woods. Felt slow and laboured but turned out to be second fastest on that route ever. Good weights / core / stretch pm.
T - Wall pm. Arms still not completely back to normal. Board session - fingers felt amazing again once I’d warmed up.
F - Really fun fast (relatively) run - 7 miles in the very muddy woods.
S - Wall. Slab had been reset so messed around on that.
S
M - Considered max hangs but felt a bit tweaky. Wall pm - bit of board, bit of circuit board.
T - Duncan and I had discussed Brean, but his covid situation meant we had to cancel. Considered shunting trip to Split Rock but decided against that.
W
T - Anston Stones. Brilliant day out with daughter. Went up via M11 and it only took just over 3 hours which meant we were there around 9.30. Didn’t really get to the top of very much but keen to return for more in the distant future. Daughter had good session on Shallow (or was it The Cut) and was within an whisker of her first 6C (at 9). Various holds on the wave were weeping a bit which didn’t help. I tried Blind Bat - was going on Tomtom’s vid and I seem to struggle on long go-go-Gadget Arm snatches. Seem to be lacking oomph in that direction. Skin was a bit thin for the intermediate crimps by that stage. Should’ve tried Last Stand and Alpha. Tried Beta Blocker late in the day after we’d got quite chilly and couldn’t really figure it out.
F - Beach exploration with 5-year-old
S - Wall. Felt sub-par, warmed up v slowly. Ended up doing one more move on prow 7C+, and another move static. Hopefully it’ll still be there when we’re allowed back in.

Three over-keen wall sessions in the post-lockdown week and subsequent inability to recover basically wrote off any quality climbing / training in the following two weeks. I think I’ve put a bit more weight on, and I think that compounded nasty arm tenderness, etc. Still, I did feel amazing post lockdown, and keen for more gainz in this next one. Will just be v careful not to overdo it again. Also keen to get Christmas eating and drinking out of the way (had a rather unhealthy relationship with both this year) and get started on dry new year / weight loss / more running, etc. Convinced that if I can get down to mid-lows 80s kg and continue to make strength gains like I’ve been doing recently then 2021 should be a decent year for harder ticks...

[tomtom]

Anston probs are often quite knacky to me Yoss (or it takes a couple of sessions to work out how it goes etc..). Blind Bat is a bit crap TBH - Beta Blocker is generally considered the softest touch of the 7A's... (apart from Fine Art of course.. ) but took me ages to work out (squeezing those long levers in etc..). Beretta and Colt are great and better than all of the above IMHO..

[Yossarian]

It was good fun. Next time I'll download all the videos in advance! We were going to head back after Xmas (and were also meant to be going down to Hartland and Tintagel tomorrow / wed) but my plans to resurrect the year in the closing stages have been dashed by tier 4...

[nai]

Alternative Blind Bat beta for those who enjoy climbing rather than lunging between ledges

[JohnM]

Weight - 10st8lbs

M - Offset pullups - Lattice jug above, Awesome Woodys below. (3x3 15mm, 4x5 20mm, 3x8 30mm).

T - Shoulder stability and core. Assisted one arm hangs BM middle edge. Trail run 7.5km 347hm.

W - Weighted pullups (3x3 24kg, 4x5 15kg, 3x8 10kg).

T - Trail run 11.8km 553hm. Assisted one arm hangs BM middle edge.

F - Trail run 13.51km 601hm.

S - Back on the nemesis 8a+. First time on rock for 2.5 weeks. My skin got sore quick and despite gains in my fingerboard training they didn't translate to limestone rat crimps on the day. Felt heavy. Injured finger became unhappy. Sacked it off after a few tries and decided to do a 7c for confidence. Got completely shut down and got in a bad mood! X-country skiing in the afternoon - much nicer than getting shutdown on rat crimps! 17km

S - Trail run 30km 910hm.

A decent week training-wise and each session felt solid and high quality. The only downside was going on actual rock and getting shutdown!

[Yossarian]

Alternative Blind Bat beta for those who enjoy climbing rather than lunging between ledges

I found that afterwards! Daughter was trying it with a right heel on the starting handhold and going up like you do there.

[Will Hunt]

I completely forgot to mention that, long after anti-hydral had first been recommended to me, I tried putting Rhino Skin Tip Juice on my fingers a couple of times this week. I can happily report that it did absolutey fuck all.

I did do some brief research into proper anti-hydral but it looked like you could only get it by paying in Bitcoin on the dark web and having it imported in the stomach of a trained channel-crossing dachshund.

[Coops_13]

M: Poudre Canyon. Warmed up at Hatchery block (v1 - 3) then went to King Fin V4. Good to get that. Went to 420s and did a few more up to V3 then lots of boulder exploring. Wildfire devastation is amazing. Black bare trees as far as the eye can see and strong smell of burning at boulders, soot underfoot


T: 100 press-ups (30, 30, 24, 16)

W: Fingerboard 22mm 10s +15lb *5sets

T: Density Pickups 20mm +45lb *3sets. 100 press-ups (30, 30, 28, 12)

F: Fingerboard 22mm 10s up to +20lb *3sets

S: Keystone half-day. 12k ft descent.

S: Eldorado Canyon. Warmed up and went to Eastern Priest V4 - mega highball by the river. Top was snowy so when I hit the lip, I had a sketchy downclimb and jump off. Went to Gill boulder, horrible crimpy vertical wall climbing. Tried the classic crimpy Horan Face but too crimpy for me at the moment. Hiked up to Pig Dog - horrible conglomerate rock. Too tired to make much headway.


LH injury slowly improving - was pulling much harder on crimpy stuff yesterday and some symptoms returned but only temporarily I think

[spidermonkey09]

I completely forgot to mention that, long after anti-hydral had first been recommended to me, I tried putting Rhino Skin Tip Juice on my fingers a couple of times this week. I can happily report that it did absolutey fuck all.

I did do some brief research into proper anti-hydral but it looked like you could only get it by paying in Bitcoin on the dark web and having it imported in the stomach of a trained channel-crossing dachshund.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/393023433256

[tomtom]

I completely forgot to mention that, long after anti-hydral had first been recommended to me, I tried putting Rhino Skin Tip Juice on my fingers a couple of times this week. I can happily report that it did absolutey fuck all.

I did do some brief research into proper anti-hydral but it looked like you could only get it by paying in Bitcoin on the dark web and having it imported in the stomach of a trained channel-crossing dachshund.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/393023433256

5 or 6 years ago I got two tubes of this from a German chemists site for £3 a tube. Arrived three days later.

Google stump cream.

I’ve stopped using tip juice - it makes my skin harder but more prone to splits. Better off without it.

[nai]

Alternative Blind Bat beta for those who enjoy climbing rather than lunging between ledges

I found that afterwards! Daughter was trying it with a right heel on the starting handhold and going up like you do there.

Awesome. Key thing if she does do that move is not to bump leftwards onto the bigger shelf like Tom does, that makes the move back right much harder.

[tomtom]

Alternative Blind Bat beta for those who enjoy climbing rather than lunging between ledges

I found that afterwards! Daughter was trying it with a right heel on the starting handhold and going up like you do there.

Awesome. Key thing if she does do that move is not to bump leftwards onto the bigger shelf like Tom does, that makes the move back right much harder.

Says the short man :p

[nai]

Just a wild guess that Yos's daughter isn't ~6ft. 

[Yossarian]

Yeah, forget AidanWad and instead behold the next generation of 6ft comp mutant 9-year-old girls...

[Nibile]

Power Club

I must have been quite busy because I didn't log a single session. Let's try.

Mon - Lattice Edge, weights.
Tue - rest.
Wed - boxing bag.
Thu - probably Lattice Edge session, bar work, snatch rack pulls, loaded carries or a finisher.
Fri - rest.
Sat - weights, mainly snatch grip rack pulls, DL and loaded carries.
Sun - rest. 12 hours long barbecue and wine marathon. Very satisfying.