[tomtom]

Power club 552

Mon: rest

Tues: Board. Great session. Did everything I’d done before. Time for new problems.

Weds: A ‘significant’ birthday for MrsTT. Nice lunch out in town. Zoom stuff with family in evening.

Thurs: Desperate to get out.. Went for a quick morning hit to Wilton3. Not much dry, but got back on Rodins Requiem for first time since Jan - and it nearly clicked. Good. Did the 7B just right of Starship called Scuffle Bucket that involved some soggy heather grovelling at the top :D Good stuff.

Fri: Board. Nearly as good as Tues - but climbing really well on it.

Sat: Day 2 of MrsTT’s celebrations.. Made a cake, did the shopping, supervised the lad whilst she met friends in the park and organised evening zoom shizz.. knackered.

Sun: Out early  - went back up to Stronstrey Bank - started working Grasshopper - a 7C+ that links into Noisy Cricket that I did a few weeks back. Couple of really tough moves - but managed to do the problem in overlapping sections. Filmed Noisy Cricket (badly) below. Good session - went up to try Hellbore but it was a bit damp - and I was a bit tired.



Really intense week in work coming up - which I’m not looking forward to and hoping to engineer some time to get out (if we’re allowed to then..)
 

[Coops_13]

M: Shoulder mobility exercises. Push. Bench press up to +160lb X3 *3 (if smith machine is 25lb then that's BW). Incline press 40lb X8 *3, shoulder press 40lb X6 *3, lateral and front raise 20lb X6 *3. Lower body stretching

T: Spot Denver.  Strength repeaters, 3 sets (took it a bit lighter). 18mm, 5 on 3 off X5. BW, +5lb, +10lb. Session on the Kilter board at 45deg. 1 V3, 4 V4, 6 V5, 5 V6. First time deadlifting in a while so limited it to 200lb X5 *3sets. Finished with pullups EMOM, managed 6 *10mins - best since injury!

T: Spot Denver. 10s hang tests of finger up to 40lb on 18mm. Going to do two sessions a week of 10s hang slowly increasing weight. Big Kilter board session trying harder boulders up to V7 at 50deg. Did 1V4, 3 V5, 4 V6. Finished by flashing a load of 4- wall problems on mostly slab and vert.

S: 1.5 mile walk near Highlands Ranch with pup

S: Solo mission to Wild Basin as mate had food poisoning. Arrived at boulder at 0620, warmed up on moves and waited for sun to rise then sent Hamburglar V8 first go by 0720. Went to try Free Basin Stand, did all moves bar one - v awkward. Couldn't figure out how to start Garfield and Odie was tearing through my rubber. Went to Mini Dagger V6 and flashed to the top-out which seems to be the crux for me. Worked it out and managed it. Over to Thug roof to get a quick send of Dharma Bums V5. Had a play on Gangsters in Paradise but feeling tired so stopped.

[shark]

11.1 - 11.2 Average 155.9 (down 0.1lbs )


M.

T. AM FB warm up then Crag X with Ewa. Steve Hickie there. Forecast was for occasional light rain but ended up being frequent and fairly heavy. The wet patch in the bulge was still just clear of the slot. Conditions ok but not as good as it was on Sunday and didn’t feel fully recovered either. Few attempts on JR then 3 decent goes on Moffatrocity - first as far as reaching for low flake on JR, second touching the intermediate before the rail on JR and third go only getting a toe on the JR ledge and fell trying to convert it to a heel. By time we left wet streak had reached the intermediate before the rail

W.

T. Malham with Steve and Andrew. Met Rob F there. Lot of seepage and blazing sunshine which despite ambient temp of 9.5 made it too hot for hard climbing. Classic quote from the usually reticent Rich Waterton when he arrived after a difficult drive - ‘I fucking hate this place’

F&EE x2. Initially wrote the Oak off but Dalvinder persuaded me to dry the undercut by the third bolt. Good advice. Jugged up and did that. With a short bit of cloud cover dogged up and undercut at start of top traverse to top. Sun reappeared and ended up having a nap until clouds arrived and temp drop woke me up.

Next tie in pulled up and played on on lower moves and did throw move. Several attempts to do the first pop then climbed up to setting up for throw but pinky pinged out of LH undercut. Next go ground to getting the horn bit in a bad place but somehow pulled through to the clip but was busted but somehow got through to going for undercut at start of top traverse before coming off but matching last weeks year high point

Longer rest and walk. Next go went really well but overshot on throw move and didn’t get horn well with thumb too high and came off. Final go with sore tips and feet and managed to start setting up for throw but fingers were in badly on cramped side hold. Sat on bolt and was close to doing throw to the top coming off after redpoint crux on top traverse which was encouraging and showed endurance not as awful as I thought.

F.

S. Torn between training and crag x. Decided that x would be iffy and to go big with the training.
FB ergo edge long progressively longer hangs to warm up to 20 secs on ergo edge then a set of recruitment ad speed pulls. Foundry campus various. Close on 1-4-7 on big holds and held 1and4 and pulled through to 6 on medium. Some one arm hangs on BM middle low edge. A few pulls on throw move on woodie and a couple of level 2’s on Wave steep bit. Flashed Rh pink one but yellow had a big move and took several attempts. Systems board at office. Did benchmark mirrored crusher crimps back to back. Two sets on AnPower circuit. Third set too powered out. Two sets of 20/10s ie 240 moves AeroCap

S.

Not sure how this week is going to pan out. Reports were the Oak was wet on Saturday and again on Sunday but dried back by the end of the day but with the undercut still wet. Based on forecast decided that Monday looked prone to condensation. Current plan is to go Tuesday and Friday with Ewa but tomorrow looks sketchy too.

Tired from DIY this week and last too. Been scraping paintwork off a lot of exterior woodwork (half timbering and windows) using an electric heat gun. At one point I thought I was going to set the house on fire yesterday evening. Scraping done - now sanding and various filling.

Steve Hickie doing Moffatrocity

[36chambers]

S: Solo mission to Wild Basin as mate had food poisoning. Arrived at boulder at 0620, warmed up on moves and waited for sun to rise then sent Hamburglar V8 first go by 0720. Went to try Free Basin Stand, did all moves bar one - v awkward. Couldn't figure out how to start Garfield and Odie was tearing through my rubber. Went to Mini Dagger V6 and flashed to the top-out which seems to be the crux for me. Worked it out and managed it. Over to Thug roof to get a quick send of Dharma Bums V5. Had a play on Gangsters in Paradise but feeling tired so stopped.

Hamburglar looks brilliant, bon effort.

[Fiend]

Shark haven't you been warned enough times already about DIY, power tools, fire, sharp objects etc etc 

[tomtom]

Shark haven't you been warned enough times already about DIY, power tools, fire, sharp objects etc etc 

I think it’s all part of an elaborate long game style excuse strategy.... sowing the early seeds...

[Nutty]

Mon: Garden board session. Warm-up problems, then attempts at harder things. Good session. Managed to do one of my projects first go: surprised myself by latching the hold on the crux move, fought to get my feet back on and managed to do the very droppable penultimate move where I've failed previously. Pull-ups and stretching.

Tues: Rest.

Weds: Fingerboard session. Decided I would try doing one-arm repeaters rather than the longer hangs I have been doing. Half-crimp hangs for 6 secs @80% bodyweight on 25mm edge, 4 secs rest than hang on opposite arm. Was going ok then tweaked left ring finger. Finished session on right arm.

Thurs-Sun: Rest.

Started the week well, but my plans unravelled when I tweaked my finger. Wasn't sure what I'd done at first as the pain was a bit diffuse, but now it's calmed down a bit it seems to be the A2 pulley. Will start doing open-handed only stuff this week.

[Will Hunt]

At some point in the week I did a core workout but not sure when.

Th - Was supposed to have a board session but was coaxed away to a Glen lamp session. Spent far too many goes trying to repeat Rudolph in crap conditions. Thin skin was refusing to stay dry on the crimps and new shoes were clunky as they haven't softened yet. We moved onto Red Baron and did that a couple of times and then had a play on the roof as a form of training. Ended up managing the foot flick move a few times and did a respectable link starting with feet at the back and hands on the two lips and nearly getting to the top. A bit of a confidence boost for the forthcoming season as I thought I'd be way off the pace.

Sa - Took the kids for a windswept and chilly walk across Haworth Moor to the "Bronte Falls". Practically child abuse but tired them out nicely.

Su - Thruscross. Played for a while on the Wild Wall and the Cuckoo Slab. Was coaxed into repeating a lower start to Wilderpeople/Beastly by 36C and split a tip in doing so. We then moved on to the real objective of the day, Rewind. That was fun but not quite as good as I'd hoped. Was fortunate that the taped tip didn't stop play. Then finished with Barley's classic Heart of Oak.


Am annoyed with myself for allowing my skin to get so shit in the first week of the season!

[spidermonkey09]

Classic quote from the usually reticent Rich Waterton when he arrived after a difficult drive - ‘I fucking hate this place’

  Poor Rich, he's had a rotten run with conditions lately.

M - rest. felt broken after weekend exertions.

T - max hangs. Attempted 4kg assist using bottle of water to make up the weight difference. Did ok to start but power level dropped off quick so plenty of work to do here. No progress on 3FD hangs either as was tired but still managed bodyweight on LH.

W - Core in the evening. Jesus christ, nails after several months where I fell off the wagon. Stretched to finish, which was also long overdue.

T - serious DOMS in the core. Dragged myself to the wall and had a half decent session on the board considering non-functioning core. Nothing hard but a few good problems.

F - rest.

S - Malham. Quite good conditions in the cloud, but unbelievably busy. Fortunately it thinned out quite quickly. Put clips in Overnite and pissed the boulder first go before binning it on the top move when I suddenly got tired. Was quite relaxed as thought I would do it next go, but had no energy left and had to settle for a link from second bolt to top. Meanwhile Scott fell off Connect with an armful of slack out trying to clip the chain necessitating some swift belay adjustment. Fortunately he nailed it in the dusk and brought the ordeal to a close.

S - Malham again. Much hotter and had to wait around a long time for the shade. Arms felt knackered from the start. Boulder felt nails so did another good link. Final go in the dusk was solely for link purposes but tried something new on the start to eradicate a hard foot move and scraped through it. Nearly fell off every move in the mid section but just about made it to a marginal kneebar in the small corner where I recovered almost completely. Executed the top section really well and clipped the chain; job done. Once the adrenaline wore off my arms really hurt!

Good week, psyched to tick off Overnite even if it has come at the cost of sore arms and skin. Might have a few rest days before fingerboarding this week.

[gollum]

W/C 5/10/2020

M - Chest, rehab, abs, stretching
T - Depot purples, triceps, rehab, abs, stretching
W - Caley Roadside, back, rehab,abs,stretching
T - Depot purples and blues to break shoes in, repeaters, physio, shoulders, abs, stretching
F - Manchester Depot reds and blacks, biceps, rehab, stretching
S - Depot social, rehab
S - Rehab, stretching, rest

Long version ahead. Another week and definitely feeling better.

M - International chest day. Start with declines for 3s working up to 100, which is very solid indeed. Move on to inclines at 15° in the Smith machine again for 3s and am good at 95, with back staying on the bench.  Then on to flat bench for 3s working up to 100. Then start working down in increments of 5k for paused reps, finishing at 65k, where I go to failure at 5 reps, but feels like I’m under the bar a bloody long time. Move on to machine presses for 3s, start at 80 and finish at 120. Flys to finish off with 3x5 at 4 different angles......torture!!!!!
Dragon flags for core and hamstring rehab exercises before home. Rest of day is domestic duties, but in the evening do some tuck/straddle levers and some dynamic and static stretches. Jean Claude van Damme I am not.

T - Rainy day. Back to Pudsey to try to tick a few more purples. Get up a handful of new ones, good progress on a good few and virtually no progress on another. One is very frustrating as can cruise all but the second move where o don’t seem to be able to help but dab. Feel a bit of niggle in back of calf, which is clearly linked to all other stuff going on in back of my leg, but otherwise all is good.
Lots of rehab for leg on gym and seems to make a lot of difference.
Tricep exercises today. Start with close grip bench press for 5x3 up to 80k. Then on to 3x6 single arm Tate presses and dumbbell skull crushers for the same reps. Move on to cable machine. Standing V grip presses, single arm cable presses and leaning tricep press give the muscle a really good workout.
Get home and do 5x5 lever raises for core and some more stretching.
Another round of leg rehab in the evening.

W - Up to Caley Roadside in the morning, a bit damp and green, but can’t be surprised. Back on Pebble Wall and making progress but can’t press leg out on a high foot hold, will be the case of unlocking a sequence that works and is a style of climbing I like as the concentration is so intense. Play around repeating bits of problems around Forked Lightning Crack and trying to find more technical but less powerful sequences. Some easy movement on slabs.
Gym. Run through rehab exercises. Move on to deadlifts to see how recovery is doing. Five singles, finishing at a conservative 130, which is what I planned last week, so pleased and happy not to push it. Wide grip pull ups for 5 sets of 10 strict reps, moving hands in and out on final set. Barbell rows done as a superset of pronated and supinated grip for 3x5. Then do some barbell shrugs for 5x5, a while since I’ve done these. Move on to machine pull downs with 3 second pause at the bottom of each rep. Keep going until can’t manage 3 reps. Then do the same for single arm machine pull downs. Finish off with odd school sit ups again for abs and some stretches for legs and hips.

T - Chucking it down and at a loss what to do in the morning, so go to Depot with the intention of doing repeaters. Run through my rehab and some stretches. Before I get going though, decide to have a go at a few purples that I think I’m not so far off and do three first go of the day, miss another one but happy enough.
Move on to repeaters. Do the routine where on two and three finger grips I have one hand in a slightly bigger pocket and one in slightly smaller one, alternating with each hang. Progress on sloping holds seems to be happening, as cheating less.
Then spend an hour doing all the blues  (both climbing up and back down) to help break in a new pair of boots that are different on style from what I’m used to. To start with they feel like massive clogs but by the end of the session, merely clogs, will keep doing stuff like this as think they’ll be great once broken in a bit and I get used to angle of them.
Physio at lunchtime and so close to be nearly fixed, although not quite. Given more progressive exercises and back in a fortnight.
Shoulders in the gym. Start on the machine shoulder press for 5x5. On to alternate presses on shoulder press with other hand locked at bottom isometrically for 4x5, 3/4 of the weight of previous exercise but feels tough. Go to heavy (for me) barbell presses for 3 sets, trying to ensure good form and ensure only shoulders are working rather than using leg drive. Arnold presses for 3x6 followed by 3x6 strict slow tempo military press. Next a superset of 3x5 seated front raises and lateral raises. 3x10 single arm alternating lateral raises. Finish shoulders with cable crossovers for rear delt and scapular raises.
Weighted crunch machine for abs and a quick test run, which is slow and brief and in the wrong shoes but is encouraging that I may be able to ease back into running soon.
A good day.

F - Weather a shocker again, so head over to Manchester. Run through stretches and rehab as part of my warm up. Attempt to flash as many of the reds that I can and manage all but two in big room and four in smaller room, most of the ones I don’t do are a bit more techy, except one which is really crimpy. I’m happy to take that. Then go on to do all the blacks, by the end of which I can tell I’m knackered as I am guppying the big holds on my way down stuff. Originally plan to do all blues as well but think it would be foolhardy. Good session with lots of volume and lots of working out moves insight and on my own which is always a good skill to practice.
Later in the afternoon go to the gym for bicep training. Start off with 5x5 Ez preacher curls, increasing the weight each set with a top set of 40k. Go to steep angle preacher curls, drop the weight but increasing the reps to 3x8. Then on to incline curls for 3x8, keeping the tempo slow. Concentration curls for 3x3 on both arms. Then spider curls for 4 sets of six. Carry on working biceps with old style standing alternate strict curls for 3x10. Finish with 3x6 cable curls which I superset with woodcutters for obliques. More rehab exercises in the evening.

S - Social climbing at the Depot with friends. Steady session that was about chilling and getting other people up stuff. One new purple tick for me and a dyno but otherwise just pottering about. New rules meant masks needed to be worn all the time except when actually climbing, which I thought would be a pain but turned out to be no big deal at all. Good call I reckon.
Leg rehab and strengthening exercises and some stretches when I get home.

S - Went through my rehab exercises, including the slightly ridiculous looking hopping on one leg for a minute but otherwise was a rest day.

A week with lots of volume although only managed to get outside once. Leg coming along nicely and whilst still not there, doesn’t seem to be a major limiting factor and has forced me into trying to do some things a bit differently for the last few weeks, which has been worthwhile.

Wondering what the week ahead will bring in terms of lockdown as gyms and walls closing locally will certainly mess with my head, which will be garbage as at the moment I seem to have a good grip on my anxiety.

[tomtom]

Executed the top section really well and clipped the chain; job done. Once the adrenaline wore off my arms really hurt!

Excellent!

[teestub]

Filmed Noisy Cricket (badly) below. Good session - went up to try Hellbore but it was a bit damp - and I was a bit tired.

Good job this wasn’t your actual ascent with that blatant plant dab 😄

[tomtom]

power nettle :D

[Footwork]

S - Malham again. Much hotter and had to wait around a long time for the shade. Arms felt knackered from the start. Boulder felt nails so did another good link. Final go in the dusk was solely for link purposes but tried something new on the start to eradicate a hard foot move and scraped through it. Nearly fell off every move in the mid section but just about made it to a marginal kneebar in the small corner where I recovered almost completely. Executed the top section really well and clipped the chain; job done. Once the adrenaline wore off my arms really hurt!

Nice one pal! You'll have to show me the 'weak'  way of doing it as it's on the list.

[duncan]

Well done on Overnite and on anther 7C for tt.  Great to read gollum's reports in their full glory.

M - Fingerboard: Aerobic Power session (7s/3s repeaters at ~60% max., on a 15mm edge) x2 mins. x 6 sets.
T - Jogged around The Heath.
W - Warmed-up for a strength fingerboard session but wasn’t feeling it so just did the shoulder conditioning routine (IsYsTs, handstands).
T - Fingerboard: strength (10s at ~90% max.). Shoulder conditioning.
F - 6km run. Shoulder conditioning.
S - House hunting in Stockport and some distanced socialising with friends and family. Went for a long walk along the banks of the Goyt and through the Marple matto grosso, satisfactorily exhausted everyone in the party.
S - Climbing with Fiend ...at Stanage Popular! More archetypically fiendish options were damp and we needed somewhere clean and quick drying. Clearly others had had the same idea as it felt like the entire climbing world was there (hi cheque). It was a jolly atmosphere once I’d got over the shock of seeing more people in the same place than almost anywhere in the last six months. I’d completely forgotten how to climb natural grit (last visit to Stanage was in 2003) and backed-off Acheron which was probably a bit ambitious as a warm-up. Redeemed myself on Another Game of Bowls Sir Walter and various other E0s, most of which it turns out I had soloed in a past life but that was then...   

Good to have a sociable weekend and a pleasant swerve from Limestone redpointing. More house stuff this week but hoping to get away at the weekend.

[JohnM]

Weight 10st7lbs

M - Rest

T - Shoulder recruitment + core, one arm assisted hangs on BM lower middle edge, weighted hangs on lower outer edges. PM - Routes at the wall. 7a+ and 7b+ and then failed attempts at 8a and 8a+.

W - NG endurance session on Lattice rung (4 sets).

T - Rest

F - Schleierwasserfall. Mercy Street (8c) session 4. Best session yet. First go bolt to bolt. Dyno first time and then did the top crux moves first go. Second go linked from bottom to the overlap (hard 8a+), aided through the wet overlap and then climbed through the dyno right up into the top crux sequence. Rested and then pretty much linked the full top section from the jug after the dyno. Slipped on the final hard move as one of the footholds is soaked. I can dry one foot mid-crux but not the other! Finished with a retro-flash of a 7c and a 7b in short succession. Watched Jakob Schubert walk up a 9a after a couple of tries. I think outdoor climbing is too easy for these comp beasts!

S - Woke up feeling broken but decided to head out anyway as the weather was due to crap out for days. Went to Arzbergklamm. The rock quality wasn't the best on the harder routes but it was a nice spot. Did an 8a with a frustrating high rockover with a slippery left hand edge. After pinging off on my first RP did it 2nd RP.

S - Routes indoors. 5 x up down ups between 5c and 7a.

A good week and I was happy to make more progress on the 8c. However, the route is persistently wet at the moment and that doesn't look set to change anytime soon so I might focus my efforts elsewhere. I am also at the stage I go through at least once a year where I feel I am going well and increase the volume and intensity and start to develop niggles. Invariably at least one of those niggles turns into a debilitating injury. Last year it was a ligament in my elbow and now my left shoulder is cranky, I have a bit of golfers elbow in my left arm and the tendon in my right index finger has a bruised feeling from too much crimping. I am determined to manage it better this year (I say this every year) and I will have a very light week this week. At least the weather is crap at the moment!

[nai]

Filmed Noisy Cricket (badly) below. Good session - went up to try Hellbore but it was a bit damp - and I was a bit tired.

Good job this wasn’t your actual ascent with that blatant plant dab 😄

He got away with a strap dab last week, using all that Woodhouse blah to distract folk

(and the fact he referred to an arse scrape, grovelly mantle as superb)

[tommytwotone]

LTG: Font 7a

M: Nowt
T: Last Sun Dance after work, good session - 5 or 6 new V4s, which for me is a bonus as the setting there is one of my anti-styles. At the end, surprised myself by scraping up a V5 which involved a nu-skool dyno / pop / toe-catch co-ordination move. Old dog, new trick.
W: Nowt
T: Nowt
F: Big Depot with the eldest, who's progressing really well. I managed to do a steep, burly (another of my anti-styles) V5-6 I couldn't do last week in a couple of goes
S: Nowt
S: Day pass so chipped off out to Burbage South and met Dolly and Nai. My sights were on Knick Knack Paddywhack, which I found to be a lot less trivial than I'd hoped / assumed. Got it all sorted out apart from the pop (i.e. the crux!) before running out of beans. Did an couple of the problems down below but was goosed.

[tomtom]

Filmed Noisy Cricket (badly) below. Good session - went up to try Hellbore but it was a bit damp - and I was a bit tired.

Good job this wasn’t your actual ascent with that blatant plant dab 😄

He got away with a strap dab last week, using all that Woodhouse blah to distract folk

(and the fact he referred to an arse scrape, grovelly mantle as superb)

Back around for your sleuthing skills Nai and Stubbs.... there’s one big issue/error in that vid you’ve both missed.. 😂

[dunnyg]

Looks like you can't tie your lace, but I thought you were just trying to show off?

[teestub]

Non sit start sit start, even with the Albatross like wingspan!

[tomtom]

Non sit start sit start, even with the Albatross like wingspan!

Correct! The SS isn’t hard - but that attempt was getting the overlap for the second part of the 7C+ so I wanted to start with my rf in the hole I would use coming in from the right. Etc.. etc.. (If anyone’s interested the hard move of the extension is swinging across to get the left hand hold with just the right crimp and a footlock)

😀

[nai]

M - lacking ideas agreed to meet Dolly at Owler to try Sisyphus.  Baffling to start but micro beta came together and it started to feel feasible, rain stopped play as we got agonisingly close.
T - board session
W nowt
Th - Back to Owler, managed to do Sisyphus quite quickly.  Cool problem, very beta intensive for something seemingly so straightforward.
Did Golden Arete and was realy close to repeating Spider Crack from a sitter but had to settle for the stand.  Gorgeous evening.
F - Quicky to Burbage North. Tried Rocket Boy but didn't feel like I was close, rained, headed down to path, rain stopped, went to play on Hanging Rib Undercut eliminate, got really close, if I'd tied my laces I might have done it. Then it really rained and that was that.
S nowt
S - went to meet 3t at BS.  Was going to try Gib's Rib until a guy fell after greasing out of the finishing break. It was Emerald green so perhaps not a surprise.  Just pottered and enjoyed the nice day.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - farmer's 80 kg, rack carry 26 kg, 30/30 x20.
Tue - rest.
Wed - barbell complex x10, pull ups finisher.
Thu - board, one foot bouldering on problem 1 +8 kg +2 kg. Farmer's 1/1 x10 70 kg felt like a breeze.
Fri - gym, legs and dips.
Sat - boxing bag.
Sun - weights.