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Power Club 548 7-13 Sept (Read 5888 times)

tomtom

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#25 Re: Power Club 548 7-13 Sept
September 14, 2020, 12:47:20 pm
In the Lakes on holiday this week. Plans are a bit up in the air as currently sat in hospital with Sprog who was on oxygen most of the night. Antibiotics have started and fingers crossed we'll be out of here by the evening.

Hope its alright Will. Ours had a hospital/IV AB's session once and it was worrying but he picked up back to normal really fast..

JohnM

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#26 Re: Power Club 548 7-13 Sept
September 14, 2020, 01:18:11 pm
Quote
I can't even fathom that you went climbing without even taking a rest day after an ultra.

I managed to finish the ultra around lunchtime so I had half a days rest! Anyway, it is not like climbing was a big success. My girlfriend said she didn't think I could climb an 8th grade route the day after an ultra. By the time I had frigged my way up the 7c+ start to the 8a+ extension/variation I realised she was right and that she was concerned by my breathing!

SA Chris

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#27 Re: Power Club 548 7-13 Sept
September 14, 2020, 01:27:58 pm

I can't even fathom that you went climbing without even taking a rest day after an ultra.

Technically that's two ultras back to back (ultra is anything over 42 km). I'm not sure I'd still be alive..

nai

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#28 Re: Power Club 548 7-13 Sept
September 14, 2020, 01:54:28 pm
Effort yetix, tomtom, JohnM and SpiderM

I owe a week:

M 31st Baslow, easy stuff between Square Stone and Balls Test (fail), somehow pulled retro flash of Truffle Pig out of thin air

W Baslow again - lovely circuit of highballs/easy solos around Renaissance then back to Balls Test, successfully this time.

F Baslow - intended to go to the Walnut but couldn't face hacking through the bracken so diverted to Eagle Stone.

M - 2x10 problems on steep board

T 30 mins LI on 10 degree

W - Higgar - false start at the Harvester block but fun at Great Slab area then around Tall arete

Th - Burbage Bridge - quick hour.

F - Dogs Dinner. Jumped off the top of the 6C thing tt mentioned but misjudged how high I was and started bracing for impact too early so by the time I landed I'd bent my knees in too much. Limped out then had an uncomfortable drive home, had to take bends very slowly.

Weekend of mobility exercises, I'm ok standing or lying but it's hard/sore to get up from sitting.

Have been doing my stretches a coupelof times a week too but been neglecting the core a bit, finding it hard to get back into routine.

 

cheque

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#29 Re: Power Club 548 7-13 Sept
September 14, 2020, 02:56:53 pm
Had seconded it in late 2007 so a retroflash. Had always been wigged out by the top out as my only memory of the route was groping around in sloping nothing until I found an incut edge. In fact you actually go slightly right and top out up some decent little crimps to positive flutings and pockets. So I've been mistaken about what the crux of the route was for the last 13 years or so!

I’ve had similar experiences to this a lot this year- getting on routes I dogged on lead or second in the past to make the most of the “nothing to lose” vibe that creates. Almost always my vivid memories of them are completely inaccurate and/ or based on having missed obvious holds.

Fiend

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#30 Re: Power Club 548 7-13 Sept
September 14, 2020, 05:27:02 pm
 Balls Test is brilliant eh Nai, real hidden gem.

mr chaz

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#31 Re: Power Club 548 7-13 Sept
September 14, 2020, 05:50:30 pm
M.
T. Indoor bouldering, much improved since previous session but still a little way to go before I feel like I'm back on form. Car broke down on the way back NNFN!
W.
T.
F.
S.
S. Dinbren, absolute roaster! Please to get a quick ascent of Fat Boys 7a+, one dogging go and then a successful redpoint. Moved onto to Fire hoping for a similar experience and got pretty shut down. Dogged to the top and reminded myself of the moves, next time eh. Finished off doing the 6b thing on the left.

Time to get back on the woody I think and back on some of the harder routes I have on my list.

shark

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#32 Re: Power Club 548 7-13 Sept
September 14, 2020, 08:21:19 pm
I’ve had similar experiences to this a lot this year- getting on routes I dogged on lead or second in the past to make the most of the “nothing to lose” vibe that creates. Almost always my vivid memories of them are completely inaccurate and/ or based on having missed obvious holds.

And being several inches shorter I imagine

nai

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#33 Re: Power Club 548 7-13 Sept
September 15, 2020, 03:27:16 pm
Balls Test is brilliant eh Nai, real hidden gem.

It really is, perfect height, perfect landing, perfect moves, perfect amount of doubt on the move and relief on topping out.
Applies to a lot of Baslow really

 

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