[wasbeen]

Any recommendations for bouldering up to around  7b'ish?

Last time we did a bit around Mynydd Dinas near Fishguard. They were really good problems albeit a pain in the arse to locate.

Cheers

[Will Hunt]

I'm actually near St David's now. There is some beach bouldering around and about. Newgale seems to be best. North end has some caves that need autumn or spring (low in the sky) sun to burn the grease out of the back. The south has a boulder developed by Mike Adams which is documented in the CC North Pembroke definitive and on 27crags. Both these need low to medium tide.

I'm off to Marloes Sands with the family tomorrow. For beach stuff really but I've bouldered a bit there before. Its documented in the definitive.

There's the crag that you mention and then there's a bit of inland stuff at Treffgarne and Plumstone Mountain. Both in the definitive.

Not sure what else there is but I'm sure there's other beach stuff here and there.

[Will Hunt]

Forgot to say, I'm without pads so if you fancy calling in at Marloes tomorrow then there's a 3 star (albeit unrepeated at time of the guide going out, so it could be whack) arete there that goes at 7A+. I'm crossing my fingers for a sandy landing.

[wasbeen]

Cheers Will, that is plenty to get on with! We are not heading over for a couple of weeks. Sounds like it will be well worth bringing a pad.

Enjoy your trip.

[Alex-the-Alex]

I always thought St David's head and the North Coast there should have some good spots. The rock is so good!

[wasbeen]

Will -  is this the CC guide you mentioned?:

https://www.google.com/amp/s/midwalesclimbing.home.blog/2019/01/08/newgale-beach/amp/

The 27 crags:
https://27crags.com/crags/newgale-south/routelist

Cheers

[Will Hunt]

The definitive I was talking about is this: https://www.climbers-club.co.uk/shop/books/mid-south-wales/pembroke-north-vol-1/

It's definitive for routes with selected bouldering. It has that inland venue that you mentioned going to. I bought it for the DWS and trad coverage mainly. If you're near St David's then Barrel Zawn is worth going to. Very nice deep water bouldering.

That top link is good for Newgale North. Worth bearing in mind that the shingle level is now completely different so a couple of the starts of problems are a bit different now.

That 27crags link is the one I was talking about. It's a crap website to use (not sure how helpful it is for actually finding the boulder) but it does describe all the problems which might not have been done at the time of the definitive guide (i.e. over-caffeinated sugary drink companyet which looks fantastic).

[dunnyg]

 Get surfing will!!!

[wasbeen]

Barrel zawn looked ace thanks - a good way to dip a toe in the DWS water.

I am guessing the toppos are in the CC guide as well. I can't see them in RF South Wales sport guide I have.

Cheers

[Will Hunt]

Yeah, Barrel Zawn is covered in the definitive and also Pembroke Rock (i.e the CC's select guide published under the Wired Guides brand) to the area.

[a13c]

I went to the Newgale boulder last year, it's not too hard to find.... Maybe 15/20 minutes walk. Head left from the parking, walk along the lovely beach and eventually you'll get to a bouldery section, keep your eyes peeled and you'll find the boulder. Its in the shade till early afternoon. I put a video together of my trip

[wasbeen]

Nice video. Thanks all. Really appreciated.

[SA Chris]

Get surfing will!!!

+1

[wasbeen]

Thanks for the tips for Newgale. There is a surprising amount there.

My daughter sent this Boulder. It is about 30m further south than the "Big Boulder" in 27 crags. It overhangs by 30 degrees.

She thinks it is around 7A. The thin crack suits her ratty fingers. Perhaps it is harder for the tall (?).

I couldn't see it anywhere, could it be new?