JuJu Club is fucking desperate for the slightly shorter of stature
Quote from: spidermonkey09 on December 14, 2018, 12:19:43 pmJuJu Club is fucking desperate for the slightly shorter of statureI suspect it's just desperate for all. A sit-start groove into a slopey top-out doesn't strike me as the epitome of a tall man's problem (I never got close to it when I was routinely ticking stuff of that grade). Like many problems, I reckon it would be easier if you had short legs and long arms. Short arms and short legs: can't reach and have to do more moves. Long arms and long legs: bunched up and levered outwards from holds.
given the time it takes you to get here (Peak) Yossa, it would be good to have a few backup plans for if things don't work out (weather, skin, time etc) - worth getting a few lists for different circumstancesa few of my ideas for contingency plans/lists (others will have more to add to these)fast drying projects are useful - eg. Hampers Hang - easy to work due to being a traverse and a short walk in. Conan The Librarian, the best mid 6 in The Peak dries quick and makes you feel like a proper climbervery short walk ins sometimes needed to fill in at the end of a day or after plans go wrong - anything at Bbg West. but probably West Side Story and The Nose for your ticks. Banana Finger Direct at Bbg N suits the taller humans (Steve McC said he found it hard). The Curbar Block and Gorilla Warfare pit (Early Doors would be my recommendation)stuff that is in nick when other stuff might not be - eg. the Remergence variations / Blind Date stuff; this place has the benefit of flat landing, short walk in and a few things in your rangestuff that is super safe to work on your own - eg. a few things at Secret Garden - Beach Ball, the traversestuff that doesn't use power, skin, fingers - eg. Deliverance traverseoh, and improve your chances of remembering your hard earned beta by videoing it possibly worth considering somewhere as a warm up routine - locals use the 20ft Crack area of Bbg N and Bbg Bridge - it helps to have somewhere where you know the moves to get yourself ready for the day - if it's a new area for you, do the easiest problems over and over until you feel the force