Quote from: Will Hunt on June 04, 2018, 12:32:21 pmAdam, it's funny you should mention that. Someone mentioned to me last week that someone had moved some of your perma-draws onto a route next door at Kilnsey. Not sure if that's true or not or if your post is related.I was up there on Sunday and the old Metolius draws above the Hardy Annual belay seemed to be in the same places as before but there were some additional DMM draws on other previously unused bolts.
Adam, it's funny you should mention that. Someone mentioned to me last week that someone had moved some of your perma-draws onto a route next door at Kilnsey. Not sure if that's true or not or if your post is related.
Having experienced the rope unclip itself from quickdraws twice, I get very uncomfortable with this and now use a draw with locking carabiners at both ends here. Edelrid’s pure slider allows high or sketchy first bolts to be stick-clipped with a locker. The pongoose clipstick can unclip sliders, not sure about other brands.
relying on one snapgate crab at the top while the rope goes back and forth while stripping is one. Top roping on a single snapgate or quickdraw is another
Not even when you clip a single in situ snapgate (often equalised between two bolts) and lower off, cleaning as you go?The chance of a fuck up are miniscule, but with thousands of people sport climbing every day around the world I'm surprised there aren't more accidents.
Quote from: Will Hunt on June 12, 2018, 10:48:43 pmNot even when you clip a single in situ snapgate (often equalised between two bolts) and lower off, cleaning as you go?The chance of a fuck up are miniscule, but with thousands of people sport climbing every day around the world I'm surprised there aren't more accidents.They're usually steel, much deeper than a standard snapgate and have a smaller and more powerfully sprung gate though. But yeah, probably not as good as an equalised ring.
QuoteI mostly double clip crucial clips This can be a bad idea. On a standard hanger you can get a leverage effect causing the outer krab at the bolt end to get bent, causing it to snap.
I mostly double clip crucial clips
Obviously not ideal in extremis mid crux
Quote from: meI mostly double clip crucial clips This can be a bad idea. On a standard hanger you can get a leverage effect causing the outer krab at the bolt end to get bent, causing it to snap.