[Murph]

36 - great to have inspired!!
T_B - thanks for sharing your fingerboard routines. This is really useful.

Goals
STG - an ad hoc strength phase, some ego flattering outside stuff, while working out what to do for power and, more importantly, how to fit it in.
MTG - power, Advanced Training 7C
LTG - Rubicon 8A

M- kettlebell swings and get ups. Get ups are supposed to be good for shoulder strength apparently, but I don't really want to waste energy learning a skill so maybe not for me.
T- quick session at Minus10. Didn't tick anything harder than a 5. Couldn't even do the "easy dyno 6A" problem. This reinforces two things - 1. Crap at working out problems by myself without a video or someone to point to things and 2. Very poor levels of power and commitment. At least I have things to work on. Should have gone to trackside for a circuit to get my head back in. Also, the JABP hold - my god - it makes the smallest hold on theBM feel like a jug. How to train for this!?
W- bodyweight progressions. I seem to have got the idea that strength isn't/shouldn't just be about the fingerboard but I'm really not sure. Really enjoyed the session anyway and love the idea of applying progressive overload to bodyweight - feels like it should translate to being stronger on the rock. Really enjoyed.
T- one arm FB session. My first. Hold 10 on BM1k with assistance from door fram and could reach 10s with both arms. Hold 5 though could only manage 4s or so with and 1-2s without door frame. This was just testing the water though.
F- shoulders sore from previous two days. Not in a bad way but in a "wow I really was weak" way. Unfortunately cannot tell if it was because of bodyweight routine or one armers.
S- bodyweight routine #2. Some movements were progressed. Enjoyable to have goals that aren't based on endurance but test strength. So when you can do 3x8 of a movement with good form you go onto the harder version.
S- lurgy struck the murph household.

Weight - 63.7kgs this morning. 1.2kgs above target still.

[Footwork]

Mon: Went to the Depot, ok session. Managed a yellow and just did loads of volume. Did 2x laps on the 7a+ on the circuit.
Tues:
Weds:
Thrs:
Fri: Drove near Thirsk to some friends after work. Went to bed at 4am 

Sat: Not too hungover, drove back to Leeds pm for some serious boardgame action at Wills. Bed at 1:30am

Sun: ventured out in search of dry rock at Brimham around 3pm. Had previously unlocked a decent sequence for To me To You a week ago so thought I'd have another bash. No wind and surprisingly warm + sleep deprivation meant I should have just stayed at home. I could get to the last moves, but body just sagged, exhausted and the crimps felt poor. I've been struggling to correctly get my thumb onto a hold which is pretty crucial (36C had no trouble in the same body position) and found if I did a deep right shoulder press move I could re-adjust. I sliced my thumb open last year and wonder if its affected mobility a bit.

Second weekend in a row I've not ticked anything.

I'm a bit lost for direction. There's so much stuff I want to do and it's all trad, bouldering, sport and FA's. Less headless chicken and more directed focus

[Luke Owens]

M: Rest

T: Lunch - Antag/Core Circuit 30 mins

Eve - Plas Power - Got there late, quick steep traverse warm up on jugs

Repeated various problems around 6C-ish

Had 6 attempts on proj replica, have made one of the holds worse and a foot hold worse on first crux. Fell off move 14 five times doing first crux into trav, then managed the full 16 moves rested 3 mins then managed to do the 2nd crux (6 moves). First time I've managed that, psyched!

5 x 1min (20 moves) on 2min off HI-Aerocap

W: Rest

T: Lunch - Antag weights circuit 20 mins

Eve - Plas Power - 10 min LI-Aerocap

Tried a 6B+ on the Moonboard a good few times, couldn't do 2 of the moves, nails... Need to get back into the steep board.

Did a new 6Cish problem on the 20' board and tried slopey crimp proj, bit of progress.

Managed to do proj replica first crux into trav (16moves) 3 times in a row with 3 mins rest between goes, good progress. A few weeks ago I was finding the first 4 moves hard.

Quick traverse warm down at the end.

F: Rest

S: Rest

S: First session on the direct version of proj, worked out the moves on the new section of climbing pretty quickly. Had some redpoints, got 17 moves in twice and fell slightly lower twice. Never felt like I'd warmed up properly, couldn't stay warm and after my first flash pumped redpoint I never seemed to recover.

After seeing how much volume I can fit in in an indoor sesh and feel reletively fresh for the whole session it's aparent that a really good warm up helps me loads. I seem to climb loads better as a result.

Warming up properly outside seems almost impossible...

Despite it being ~11 degrees on Sunday I was still to cold to be on a rope, will probably have to put it away until next year and get back on my projects then.

[measles23]

the JABP hold - my god - it makes the smallest hold on theBM feel like a jug. How to train for this!?

You are allowed to use your feet - Dom shows the way:


70.6kg

M - Hospital day 1 post broken leg
T - Got home, shattered
W - Started planning the next few months alone with my beastmaker
T - Max hangs BM2k small crimps, open crimp: 9 sets up to +40 kg x 8 sec. Good, felt strong, although the hangs were easy compared to setting up with heavy weights while hopping about and trying not to twat my bad leg! Must have looked ridiculous
F - 7 sets 1 armers: 2x single 1 armers per side and a bunch of slow eccentrics
3 sets 1 arm 3 finger drag hangs off a decent hold - bodyweight x 5 sec hangs (new exercise for me so still learning)
S - Max hangs BM2k small crimps, open crimp: 9 sets up to +45 x 3 sec
S - 6 sets 1 armers: only one convincing one per side, the rest slow eccentrics
5 sets 1 arm 3 finger drag hangs off a decent hold: mostly bodyweight, a few +5kg, bit scared with these still, as an unexpected pop could land me on my bad leg..

This week was proof of concept really that I can use the time off to train hard - perversely feels like an opportunity to take my fingers to the next level..

[nai]

I'm learning here...your strength phase basically consists of several fingerboard sessions a week (mind sharing what your routine is) and low intensity climbing to effectively keep your hand in and your stamina up for routes?

What I'm trying to do at the moment is fit an extra fingerboard block in over winter as I'm down on where I was last year.  However, being mindfull that despite this I had my best year ever I guess the endurance was fairly key to that so I'm reluctant to let that wain. It's only an hour a week so not difficult to fit in.  Whether it's a good idea I don't know, would possiblt get better strength gains just focussing solely.  I bumped into Ollie, who did my Lattice assesment, last week and mentioned what I was doing to him hoping he'd say whether or not it was a good plan, but he wasn't being drawn.

Plan is two fingerboard sessions per week with two days between sessions, I guess this week it just worked out that three fitted in.  Plan is to do 10-12 base sessions of one-arm repeaters then switch up to max hangs for 8-10 sessions. 
After that I'll revert to a fuller program incorporating AeroPow and AeroCap work. At this point I'll drop the FB sessions to one per week but phase it the same - repeaters then max hangs.

I'm trying to do something like a strength phase too but mostly to build up non-finger strength and not really sure I'm doing the right thing.

by non-finger strength do you mean shoulder strength?

Hey, who ever is!?

Indeed, there's no one magic formula, just keep experimenting and learning.

[Murph]

Thanks Nai. Sounds like a good plan to me but what do I know!?

by non-finger strength do you mean shoulder strength?

I'm following this set of routines to build up overall bodyweight strength. The idea being that I am weak in all ways apart from fingers (which can never be strong enough) so should work all over rather than just doing pull ups when I feel like it and then not doing anything for weeks. I'm thinking of it as a bit of prehab as well. So yeah shoulders but also core strength which might help with generating body tension for poor feet. The aim is three times a week for a month then maybe go back down to two. Already loving press up progressions - aiming for 8 good reps of a harder version certainly beats going for sets of 50, 60 etc and wondering what the point is.

http://www.startbodyweight.com/p/exercise-progressions_12.html?m=1

[Murph]

T - Got home, shattered

Literally!


Thanks for the link - the thought of using my feet never even crossed my mind. I shouldn't be allowed to go bouldering without supervision or pre-vimeo inspection!

Good work on the BM matt. If you get rid of that deadlift-specific weight you were carrying and embrace finger training you'll come back to climbing better than ever... just...no more injuries please!

[measles23]

If you get rid of that deadlift-specific weight you were carrying

Too right! I had a tibial nail inserted, so they drilled out my tibia - apparently it took 4hrs instead of 2 cos the bone was so hard, which they reckon was due to the deadlifting!

Anyhoos I still don't think you need strength training - your fingers are strong; your core looks solid, you don't sag on small footholds; like I said you've got the brain of a 7B climber trapped in the body of an 8B wad! Perhaps you were right all along to get a big grade pyramid and some lime mileage under your belt, although I feel if you just broke the glass ceiling and closed down one 7C then you'd start reeling them in...

[cheque]

the thought of using my feet never even crossed my mind.

How can you look at that hold and think "that must be a campus move"? 

[fried]

A no climbing week, not a 36C no climbing week, but one with no climbing.

M-Th - low level cold, tired, too much work. Cold/ wet and miserable.
Fr/Su - Back in the UK, full english x3, fish and chips x1, curryx1, lots of cake.

Haven't weighed in yet...

[36chambers]

Sun: ventured out in search of dry rock at Brimham around 3pm. Had previously unlocked a decent sequence for To me To You a week ago so thought I'd have another bash.

but you told me we'd go back together! 

Second weekend in a row I've not ticked anything.

Ticking things is for the weak.

[Footwork]

Sun: ventured out in search of dry rock at Brimham around 3pm. Had previously unlocked a decent sequence for To me To You a week ago so thought I'd have another bash.

but you told me we'd go back together! 

Second weekend in a row I've not ticked anything.

Ticking things is for the weak.

I know  but I knew I wouldn't have it in me for that and To You Too so we'd be going back whatever! Also I was desperate to go climbing after a week of not climbing. Refining the beta for you pal 

[Murph]

the thought of using my feet never even crossed my mind.

How can you look at that hold and think "that must be a campus move"? 

It's like matt said:

like I said you've got the brain of a 7B climber trapped in the body of an 8B wad!

Perhaps I should have put the word "using" in bold but I am a famously (among my friends) shit climber trapped in strong body. Maybe.

Matt - I love the idea that by magic we swapped bodies for a day and you took the opportunity to climb Bigger Belly. A bit like the movie Big or something. Made me laugh anyway.

And no you were right to encourage me away from the low 7s. Part of me would have liked to have got more ticks in while on holiday but in the longer term I might have spent years thinking hard things are harder than they are.

Training strength at the moment now is more for convenience with childcare. I'll figure out how to get campusing or limit bouldering soon.

[Will Hunt]

Sun: ventured out in search of dry rock at Brimham around 3pm. Had previously unlocked a decent sequence for To me To You a week ago so thought I'd have another bash.

but you told me we'd go back together! 

Second weekend in a row I've not ticked anything.

Ticking things is for the weak.

I know  but I knew I wouldn't have it in me for that and To You Too so we'd be going back whatever! Also I was desperate to go climbing after a week of not climbing. Refining the beta for you pal 

Meanwhile he was ticking a 7C on his rest day. I'm surprised he still hangs out with us,


M:
T: Board sesh. Took it relatively easy. Didn't do the AnCap thing. Surprisingly little psyche for Red Baron Roof. Might sack it off and reassess what my goals should be.
W:
T:
T:
F:
S: Won Settlers of Catan (YYFY - think it's the first time I've beaten the wife at it). Ben narrowly won Munchkin.
S: Easy trad at Eastby. Did nip along to the boulder with Conflict Diamond on, which I found completely unfathomable but also disappointingly contrived. Added a non eliminate sit start which is easier and better I thought.

Re: goals. I now have a cast iron proof that the FA project that I've had in mind for over a year now will definitely go. It will require a good conditions day, a good skin day, and a good shoe rubber day to line up - so I'd like to make that my primary goal for the winter. Need to order a new pair of shoes and get them worn in ASAP.

[nai]

Already loving press up progressions - aiming for 8 good reps of a harder version certainly beats going for sets of 50, 60 etc and wondering what the point is.

Try taking a minute to do 15 in slow motion, any pauses at half lock or with nose brushing the floor. No resting with arms straight.  See how you likes them onions.

[petejh]

STG: first 8b+ (Mecca), in July October, November
MTG:
LTG: 8c, by June 2018

Redpointing phase.

M. Hip and glutes stretches.
T. Tor. Mecca sesh 10. Absolutely baltic temps, 4 degrees and cloudy. Crimps on crux felt greasy so worked the beta in the groove and also improved micro beta for the razor move. Useful sesh, but just too baltic to stay on the rock for long. Kettlebells sesh when got home.
W. TRX sesh, felt hard after not doing this for many months.
T. Flew to NI. Sesh in Boulderworld but felt strangely achey, fatigued and clunky..
F.
S. Woke up with man flu of death.
S. Brink of death.

Struck down with deadly man flu and feel like total shit on a stick.

Almost certainly not going to achieve my goal of Mecca this year. Left it too late. Oh well, it's been a learning experience and I've gained but not on paper.

[Coops_13]

S: Won Settlers of Catan (YYFY - think it's the first time I've beaten the wife at it).

Try Puerto Rico. Similar but better in my opinion 

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - shoulder carry 30/30 x5, exhausting. Boxing bag, brilliant. Very tired before starting, very satisfied after. Schoolboy error for the carry, not properly warmed-up, it's been extremely hard.
Tue - rest.
Wed - system dynamic; cleans 5x5, snatch pulls 5x5 46kg; dumbbell complex. Not bad, the barbell felt a bit heavy though.
Thu - climbing class.
Fri - anti-rotation work; paused ab wheel x2; snatch pulls 5x10 43kg; muscle snatch 5x3 36kg; overhead walk x2.
Sat - dumbell thrusters 10x5; boxing bag 30'.
Sun - static half crimp +8kg 4x4, brilliant; low int. PE 30/30, 1/1 completed, nice! Boxing bag 10' tired and not 100% mentally into it.

[webbo]

Mon. Board worked and did a couple of new things as well as failing on a couple of things. Turbo 50 mins.
Tue. Nothing.
Wed. Nothing other than flu jab.
Thu. Board did one problem I couldn't do Monday plus a couple other new ones. Bike 40.57 miles 2 hrs 29 mins. I wasn't planning to go this far but bumped in to some mates and rode with them for a while.
Fri. Hunt house crag on NYM. Wet and damp in places, great rock though. Managed to find enough dry rock to make it worthwhile.
Sat. Board repeated the problems from this week but with no kickboard. Repeaters 5 secs on 5 off X 5 4 sets with 39.5 lbs added. Shifted lots of logs into the wood store.
Sun. Bike 69.63 miles 4 hrs 10 mins battered.