[north_country_boy]

Did this today, in what may have been a slightly elimnate fashion, is the blunt rib/arete to the right in for the sitter, did it without using a split in a pair of dishes out left a strange crimpy bullett scar for the right then the mother of all rockovers to a shitty slopey seam in the vague break above.....felt about right at 7b+ but seen a pic where the arete/rib is used....brilliant problem nevertheless for anyone who hasn't tried it......

[Jim]

remember trying this with the judge last summer. Yeah its weird with the arete thing. Is it in or not? we couldn't decide.
You can use the arete much lower to make it even easier but that is definatley cheating. I think you can definately award yourself the tick for eliminating it. What was the top like? looks harrowing

[monkey boy]

When we did it we wernt too sure what it did, started sitting (obviously), up to a slopey rail with left hand and then did a hard rock out to the arete with right hand. It felt about 7b ish this way but not sure. Top isnt too scary Jim although with no chalk on your hands in slightly sweaty conditions it isnt great.

Sure your way is right Dan now i think about it but couldnt be arsed with an eliminate and there is no need for it to be! And yes it is quality which ever way you do it!

[north_country_boy]

yeah there seemed to be an abundance of holds which you don't need.....from sitting with crimpy right hand rail and weird sidepull slot for left, pulled on left hand to slopey rail, match feet then right hand to crimpy sidepull rail thingy, then big mive up left to slopey 2 finger dish, then go again to dish just to the left of it, then vulcan claw between the two dishes (cool hold!) then rock over on starting crimp with right hand taking intermediate bullett hole crimpy thing with RH then continue massive rockover to slopey rail/seam in break with RH.....

Felt nails until worked out how far you had to rockover, and yes the top out was harrowing with very cold hands, no chalk, no obvious holds, etc etc etc (but it is piss really!)

Class problem.....and well worth seeking out, whats the knowledge with Darkstar Dave?

[abarro81]

did i hear a shout-of-glory from you on famous grouse? saw a pair over there and one of them seemed happy!

[north_country_boy]

I did indeed do Famous grouse however i didn't have a shout of glory, there was another guy trying it still and was close when i left, he was possibly successful after i left.......another good problem from Mr John 'King of Burbage Valley' Welford!!! 

[Jim]

I recon that was probably worm.... failing again on it

[Andy B]

Thought this was nowhere near 7b+ using the arete, but quite a hard and conditiony 7b+ without it. Although we didn't figure out the vulcan death grip beta, and were locking off the shot hole instead. This move was steady until Daddy Fatty snapped the pebble foothold off.

[monkey boy]

Darkstar is the real line there. Only had one session on it and nearly stuck the crux which is a dyno/dynamic move to a deep mono in a 3 finger dish!! Mr.Varian went back a few days after our first session and dispatched.

Am keen to get back on it!

[Jim]

Thought this was nowhere near 7b+ using the arete, but quite a hard and conditiony 7b+ without it. Although we didn't figure out the vulcan death grip beta, and were locking off the shot hole instead. This move was steady until Daddy Fatty snapped the pebble foothold off.

Forgot about that one. Oops.
Although to be fair I did immediatly do that move using a different foothold afterwards

[Andy B]

Thought this was nowhere near 7b+ using the arete, but quite a hard and conditiony 7b+ without it. Although we didn't figure out the vulcan death grip beta, and were locking off the shot hole instead. This move was steady until Daddy Fatty snapped the pebble foothold off.

Forgot about that one. Oops.
Although to be fair I did immediatly do that move using a different foothold afterwards

Less of a different foothold, more like the same foothold without without the hold bit.
It made a big difference to the link stop ruining my excuse for not getting it done Jim

[bigironhorse]

Went to have a look at this after uni today. Really cool problem, just couldn't figure out the move up to the break, anyone know if there is a vid?

[mark20]

At the end of this one from highrepute

[dave]

Sit start - clue's in the name....

[bigironhorse]

At the end of this one from highrepute

Cheers Mark. I basically did it by this method but then thought the hold near the arete was out, I reckon its probably a better problem without eliminating the arete from that position though.

[highrepute]

Sit start - clue's in the name....

You calling me out Dave?

[dave]

 Them's the breaks.

[Bonjoy]

I found a way round the hard rockover by flipping RH to a palm on the rail after getting the bullet hole crimp with LH. You can then place LF on foothold out left and reach to slopey break. A bit skin eaty on the crimp though whichever way you do it.
While you're there Black Asteroid without the crux first move is one of the best 7bs around. It's a pretty logical start position this way i.e. stand start from big low foothold, no other rules needed.

[highrepute]

I reasoned the hold I use very near the arete was OK as it wasn't the actual arete.

Just watched the video back, didn't realise I started so badly. Must have been some reason for it at the time, probably something to do with tall people having no problem pulling on from where I did.

While you're there Black Asteroid without the crux first move is one of the best 7bs around. It's a pretty logical start position this way i.e. stand start from big low foothold, no other rules needed.

Sounds good.

[dave]

I think when we went and did the avec-arete version I was starting RH presumably where your RH is, and LH over left on something on the lip maybe, then a stiff pull off the deck. I don't think I could have reached your starting holds from sitting.

[highrepute]

Looks like I need to head back to start and finish it properly then.