They built a 45 deg. board at my bouldering wall recently and I've got a question about how/if I should train on it.
There is a good selection of holds on the board including very small, small and juggy holds. Apart from the board, they have frequently reset problems on varying angles at the wall. Some of them are more comp style problems, others are more like outdoor bouldering, featuring small hand and footholds. I usually do the more realistic problems because I want to focus on finger strength, but I also do some comp problems if I feel like it.
On the board, I tried to make up some boulders of varying length. The problem is that I have to use quite big holds on the board, a lot of them have to be jugs with just a few smaller holds mixed in. I also usually fall off after 5 to 8 moves. Climbing on the board feels very good and I feel like it will hugely benefit my core. I'm also shit at steep overhangs so I think it's a good idea to train it. My only concern is if the holds are too big to effectively train my finger strength. So I guess my question is: Should I spent more time on the steep board or should I keep doing the preset problems where I'm able to use smaller holds? Will I just get strong enough so I can use smaller holds if I climb on the board a lot? What do you think?