[tomtom]

Having to go on holiday must really suck. All I have to do is sit in an office all day and check UKB.

[andy popp]

Having to go on holiday must really suck. All I have to do is sit in an office all day and not climb.

Fair comment. It came from being frustrated, but, yeah, I deserved that.

[mr chaz]

STG 8a redpoint

M. WCJ Cornice. 2 redpoint tries on Free Monster, fell on last move.
T. PE at the wall. 1min on, 1 min off campus board x 6 (feet on, large rung). Max length hang ~ 6mins
W. Orange and white circuits at wall
T.
F.
S. Blackwell Dale. Got on Paint It Black, great problem but very hard. Couldn't do the very first moves with the heel. Went to Beginner's Wall and did Swing Time.
S.

[Dolly]

M Foundry lunchtime. Gorged myself on flashing all the easier than usual level 2s. There, I said it
T Tried to stick to a Bulgarian bag session after work, but couldnt resist a few kettlebells as well
W
T Lovely evening sess at Burbage North. Met a bloke called Andy so did things I wouldnt normally do without a spot like Banana Finger direct and All Quiet. A brilliant Burbage evening
F
S Gym core in the morning. 50 minutes of hardcore power in the shed later trying as hard as I could. Went to the ace Haggler's Corner corner for a party later. I love that place. One day I'll emerge from there in a sober state
S Mountain biking. Totley Moor then back over Blacka. Of course its great

[moose]

I have crossed a Rubicon.  An entire climbing life of "training, wot's that?"  and just climbing on a weekend (except for the traditional June days-off splurge to use up my leave allowance) has been betrayed: I have bought a Beastmaker 2000.  Only three sessions  of repeaters in (Beastmaker "intermediate" programme - seems appropriate to tacking sustained routes) but it feels..... dangerously addictive - stop-watches, training diaries.......... help! I will either get strong... or cripple myself within a month.

A bad / brilliant sign (depending on view of training): I might have got to a crag this evening but I felt a bit sore and instead "invested" in the future and measured and sawed wooden inserts for the large edges of my Beastmaker.   Anyone else find the big edges too big but the the small ones too small for variety (I can double arm hang then for repeaters when fresh, but they are too small for reducing fingers / combinations with worse holds) - made some little chocks to reduce them from around 32mm to 20mm or 17mm (latter approx same as the small edge but the lip is slightly less slopey).  I reckon  if I was to design a finger board, a few less pockets but more than  two edges would be the badger.

[shurt]

STG: regain recent form and get back focussed on the fingerboard
MTG: get outside and get some more 7b's in the bag
LTG: boulder V7+, E5/6, 8a (at some point in my life please)

m: nothing
t: nothing
w: drove to Mums avec baby and partner.
t: argued and shouted at Mum
f: left Mums to Peak. Nice cottage.
s: we all went to Robin Hoods Stride. Not too hot but 2.5 yr old wanted to try and kill himself at every opportunity which didn't make for the most relaxing session. I felt weak. Got a few things done - v3 ish.
s: went to Ramshaw on mi todd in the afternoon which was good. Got some good milage in did a V6 which was cool and shark fins dyno (Stone Monkey tick there!) among other things. Took some big falls off Old Fogey Direct before deciding that its not great to try on your own with a shit pad. By the time I got to Tierdrop I was toasted which was annoying as I had had some good burns on it on my last visit going for the last move. It was nice to get out, its a great crag and a bummer I live so far from Staffs grit as I love it.

Feel like I got a bit of mojo back with some nice bouldering but I was weak. Its hard for me to get the grit burl without climbing on it regularly. I need to get back onto training as I really noticed the difference of having a few slack weeks (although I've done fuck all this week and its Thursday already). Oh well.
On the plus side, Coop is closing down on my road and I got a £40 bottle of whisky for £12 tonight so its not all bad. Cheers!!

[Sasquatch]

I have crossed a Rubicon.  An entire climbing life of "training, wot's that?"  and just climbing on a weekend (except for the traditional June days-off splurge to use up my leave allowance) has been betrayed: I have bought a Beastmaker 2000.  Only three sessions  of repeaters in (Beastmaker "intermediate" programme - seems appropriate to tacking sustained routes) but it feels..... dangerously addictive

Welcome to the Darkside

[tomtom]

A bad / brilliant sign (depending on view of training): I might have got to a crag this evening but I felt a bit sore and instead "invested" in the future and measured and sawed wooden inserts for the large edges of my Beastmaker.   Anyone else find the big edges too big but the the small ones too small for variety (I can double arm hang then for repeaters when fresh, but they are too small for reducing fingers / combinations with worse holds) - made some little chocks to reduce them from around 32mm to 20mm or 17mm (latter approx same as the small edge but the lip is slightly less slopey).  I reckon  if I was to design a finger board, a few less pockets but more than  two edges would be the badger.

For this reason, I think the BM1000 is a better board - it has deep 'warm up' slots, the small ones you talk about, and some medium ones (2-3mm deeper than the small) - which for me give the knuckles a bit of a work out, but are not crazy hard to hang on to... There is a lesser range of mono's/two finger pockets etc.. and the 1000 doesnt have the 45's.. but having both I use the 1000 far more often..

[dave]

I've always found the deep slots on the BM2000 way too deep, which is probably why I've always held off from buying one.

[Nibile]

After a two years long hiatus, I started again some training. Better late than never.
Mon - finisher (weights complex and muscle snatch).
Tue - rest.
Wed - board climbing (terribly hot and weak) then pull ups (contrast training and speed training) and finisher (weights complex and ab roll). Heavy.
Tue - board climbing (one foot only bouldering with 7 kg on; normal bouldering with 8 kg on. Volume 3/10 intensity 9/10.
Fri - rest, drove to the mountains and got drunk.
Sat - boudering in the Dolomites (flashed 7a+ then worked out the sequence on the project).
Sun - idem. Very hot, walked too much, didn't do the project but good power and good fitness, managed many tries.

All in all a good week, despite having to fight with temps in the 40s during the day and 30s during the night. Bad tacticts for the project, should have waited more to get fresher temps.
It's good to be training again! 

[SA Chris]

Having to go on holiday must really suck. All I have to do is sit in an office all day and check UKB.

Fair comment. Still rather be on holiday though.

[shark]

I reckon  if I was to design a finger board, a few less pockets but more than  two edges would be the badger.

Ive got a Beastmaker but scarcely use it in favour of a Crusher fingerboard which just has a series of decreasingly smaller edges like the Lopez one but in wood rather than resin. Probes is usually up for making customised fingerboards.

[kelvin]

I got the crusher rail, as the four finger pockets are the same depth as the small ones on the BM but without the slope - I can actually think about repeaters on them.

Sent from my XT1039 using Tapatalk

[the_dom]

A bad / brilliant sign (depending on view of training): I might have got to a crag this evening but I felt a bit sore and instead "invested" in the future and measured and sawed wooden inserts for the large edges of my Beastmaker.   Anyone else find the big edges too big but the the small ones too small for variety (I can double arm hang then for repeaters when fresh, but they are too small for reducing fingers / combinations with worse holds) - made some little chocks to reduce them from around 32mm to 20mm or 17mm (latter approx same as the small edge but the lip is slightly less slopey).  I reckon  if I was to design a finger board, a few less pockets but more than  two edges would be the badger.

For this reason, I think the BM1000 is a better board - it has deep 'warm up' slots, the small ones you talk about, and some medium ones (2-3mm deeper than the small) - which for me give the knuckles a bit of a work out, but are not crazy hard to hang on to... There is a lesser range of mono's/two finger pockets etc.. and the 1000 doesnt have the 45's.. but having both I use the 1000 far more often..

I have the BM 2000 and a 2cm rung mounted on the opposite sides of a doorway - it gives me pretty much everything I need for hangboarding.

[tomtom]

The 1k is an under-rated board imho. It suffers marketing wise by everyone buying the bigger numbered one. A bit like selling two sorts of under crackers.. One called 'big boy' and the other called 'medium boy'. Who's gonna get the medium one even if it fits better.

Oh shit. That's me that is.

[Nibile]

I used to put some cardboard in the incut central rung to make it smaller to train one arm hangs on it (it's more incut and less slopey, plus it's in the middle so it's better given the BM is above the door), but then it became a matter of skin again, so I went back to using it as it is and adding weight.

[the_dom]

I used to put some cardboard in the incut central rung to make it smaller to train one arm hangs on it (it's more incut and less slopey, plus it's in the middle so it's better given the BM is above the door), but then it became a matter of skin again, so I went back to using it as it is and adding weight.

I find the incut central rung to be quite uncomfortable - a flat edge is much more comfy..

[Nibile]

It used to feel uncomfortable when I dragged it more, but then I started using it for proper half crimp training with an emphasis more toward the crimp, and it became more comfy.
Plus, I obviously do only max hangs so few reps and that helps.

[Luke Owens]

M: Kilnsey - Did New Mystique (6b+) twice. Had a go on Directissima fell off half way up, felt hard. Tried to redpoint Quiet Flight (7a+) dogging up it felt easy, had 3 goes but couldn't get through the start.

T: 25 minutes Aerocap - Stretching

W: 25 minutes Aerocap - Stretching

T: Had planned to do mileage at Llanymynech but partner had to leave early so went to Dinbren. 6b x 3, 7a x 2, 6b x 2

F: 25 minutes Aerocap - Stretching

S: Orme - 6a+ and 6b+ sandbag warm up then went to Castell Y Gwynt - Great conditions but I didn't feel too great myself. Got on Cruella Deville (7b) had 2 working goes and did all the moves. Inspired watching Adam Wainwright on some E5.

S: Rest