I know many of you can one arm hang off an edge, but I'm not even close.
I have strong enough fingers to hold the edge, but my shoulders and arms give out quickly. For reference, I can hold the deep in-cut holds on the BM2K (the ones on the sides, not centre), but I really struggle and last 1-2 seconds, this is only possible at a 90 degree angle.
I'm very bad at locking off and have tried to hard to improve this. I can now lock off at all angles on both arms for 5-10 seconds when feeling fresh (once I get even slightly fatigued it becomes 1-2 seconds).
I feel this might be a weak shoulder issue, one that is causing problems on many of the overhanging boulder problems I try (around 7B)
I've begun doing uneven pullups and one arm pullup training (I can't move up at all, no matter what angle i start at).
Any suggestions? I thought maybe I have weak stabilising muscles, though I honestly have no idea.
Thanks!