[Rhys]

Hi!

I'm back climbing again and was thinking of heading to the Caseg and Braichmelyn boulders tomorrow, but was wondering if anyone has any sneaky beta for Spring Juice or any other problem for that matter (e.g. problem 18 at the Caseg, anything really)?

Cheers!

[Pantontino]

Only half heartedly tried Spring Juice - got up to some shite holds aboout 4 feet below the top. I think you build yer feet up and lay one on for the top of the sloping shoulder. One bit is slightly more positive - go and have look first.

I've seen CJD do the V7 at the Caseg. Looked like basic slappy stuff, or maybe that was just the way Chris climbs. :wink:

[Rhys]

Cheers :D

Will go for a look this weekend (after I recover from 37 1/2 hours at work in the last 3 days :cry: ).

[Danny]

Did the V6 arete SDS today, thats ace, and was tryin spring juice.
Is the diagonal crimp rail in for SJ, like it is for CW Panton old bean?
After this you've got poor sidepull facing you and a shite crimp above that?
Rhys, a heel on the diagonal ramp helps you get established higher up, but after this...dunno mate.
While im at it, Monkey see/do aretes, the right hand one, do you get your L.foot high on the crimp then up for the slopey pinch? if this is so its a rite pain in the arse not to get a knee-bar across the crack,which is out.
Well worth 2 stars each, if they were 6 feet futher apart?

D

[Pantontino]

The ramp on CW is in, but I do accept that it is relatively poor line because it is probably easier to move right to the arete than go for the top.

I thought the sds arete was desperate for V6 last time I was there - a very cool problem though.

There is of course a rather obvious project, linking the sds arete problem into CW (i.e when the arete problem eases, hands at about 10 feet, swing left to the CW ramp, make a hard match and continue up leftwards as for CW). I got close to this last year, but crimpy wall climbing ain't exactly my strongest point. I won't be going back until it gets colder, so feel free to have a go.

The closeness of the Monkey See/Do aretes is a shame. I haven't actually done either of these, but I know a man (John Welford) who has. The left just looks damn scary to me (go and lie down on top and have a look :shock: ), and the right is, I believe, done with a big dyno.

[Pantontino]

Just thought of another link: do the sds arete, then reverse the traverse and finish up the left hand variation finish to the Ramp.

Endless fun and frolics - for those with the skin of a rhino.

[Danny]

It does trash the tips a bit, thankfully I decided to invest in one of those climb on  jobbies, works a treat on flappers.

I managed to fall off the top of the left arete of Monkey see/do,
the arete is good high up but there are no horizontal footholds you end up smearing on a vertical flattie and toe hooking round the arete, then you just throw for the top, which ended up being more rounded than I anticipated      arse.

[Rhys]

Aye- those aretes look quite fierce! Cheers for the beta on Braichmellyn- for some reason I still can't get off the ground on the SDS for the arete! Quite frustrating...

[Rhys]

Oh yes, by the way I was at Caseg Ffraith yesterday and it looks like someone has gone on the rampage with a wire brush on Skunk X and the starting wrap of the arete- the slopers feel very smooth with not much friction considering how cold it was and the rock is now orange. Anybody else noticed this recently?

[Pantontino]

Rhys, wirebrushing of existing problems keeps on happening - I just wish I could catch up with these fuckers.

Every time I hear some moronic twat banging on in public about the necessity of wire brushes for cleaning new lines, I just think of incidents like this.

It's pretty simple as far as I'm concerned: even new problems don't need wire brushing in N Wales.

I did two new lines tonight in the Pass, and they were pretty dirty before I started. Yet, repeated use of the holds and brushing with a simple nylon brush, combined with a bit of 'cotton rag rubbing' (patented low impact technique) did the trick.

[Danny]

I was there a couple of weeks back, the holds on skunk x seemed nice and rough, so it must be pretty recent :evil: its all beyond me this wire brushing lark. Also stuff like rock atrocity makes me wonder about people's sanity
BTW, on the SDS to the B.arete, a heel or toe out left helps, tho its not vital.

D

[AndyR]

I did two new lines tonight in the Pass, and they were pretty dirty before I started. Yet, repeated use of the holds and brushing with a simple nylon brush, combined with a bit of 'cotton rag rubbing' (patented low impact technique) did the trick.

Good for you.

It's probably best if you don't tell us where they are though, 'cos that might lead to unnecessary wear and tear.

[Pantontino]

Thanks Andy for your blessing - I feel a whole lot better, now I know I've got your approval.

Don't worry about the new problems, I won't tell a soul, least of all you - just in case you feel tempted to spread the evil tyranny of your wire brushing frenzied attacks upon the rocks onto someone else's territory.

I would just get an angle grinder, if I was you. Surely that would speed things up for a time pressed man such as yourself?

[AndyR]

Thanks Andy for your blessing - I feel a whole lot better, now I know I've got your approval.

Bless you my child - the Good Lord will find you a seat at the bouldering high table for your high-profile, low-impact bouldering sermons.

Don't worry about the new problems, I won't tell a soul, least of all you - just in case you feel tempted to spread the evil tyranny of your wire brushing frenzied attacks upon the rocks onto someone else's territory.

Now, if Mick R were on here, I suspect he may get a little hot under the collar at such parochial notions as bouldering 'territories'.

Don't worry, I wouldn't dream of using a wire brush on your soft, highly weathered, chlorite matrixed extrusive volcanic rocks.

I would just get an angle grinder, if I was you. Surely that would speed things up for a time pressed man such as yourself?

You know, I would, but I just can't seem to find an extension lead long enough to get from my house down into Wicklow......

[dave]

i don't want to start a wirebrush dabate andy, but even on irish mountain granite its possible to overbrush things. i saw holds in glendo that were badly brushed. ok you might need them to remove lots of lichen fast on new stuff, but it always send out the wrong message to those who are ill-informed or just too big headed to care. having recently seen a climber in the peak wirebrushing an existing route, who was old enough to know better and didn't appear to give a toss what everyone thinks, I'm particulary concerned about this right now. word.

[jonP]

i don't want to start a wirebrush dabate andy

Oh go on, it could be fun!

[dave]

[AndyR]

OK, I'll be the baddy (shall we say, Giant Haystacks), and everyone else can be Big Daddy.  Diving belly splashes all round......

[a dense loner]

can i be jake the snake? :D

[AndyR]

can i be jake the snake? :D

Only if I can have Kendo Nagasaki in my tag team.