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[Peak][Rowtor/Shining Cliff][10 @ 5 - 7a] (Read 1418 times)

bolehillbilly

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[Peak][Rowtor/Shining Cliff][10 @ 5 - 7a]
March 16, 2014, 10:01:13 pm
More South Peak rambling...

Rowtor
Some previously unrecorded/unclimbed (?) lines on the walls down to the left of Catch.  These are on the bits you walk past on the way to Yogurt Hypnotist etc.  Although looking horribly green the rock is quality and only takes a few days to dry.  A varied bunch of worthwhile problems.
A few lines were climbed in November, the rest this week.
From right to left...

Badarapababa  5+
The prow formed by the crack on the right and the right side of the groove of Titchy Digits.  From a sit start under the prow using some shapely pinches to reach the big square hole.

Titchy Digits 7a
The groove feature with some excellent technical bridging and tiny holds.

Steady Job 6a+
From the right two slots jump up to the big square hole and top out direct.

Gruts For Tea 6b
Climb the arête using the chipped runnel.  Sit start on the flat ledge at the base of the crack and reach right into the two leftmost slots then left to the runnel.  The big square hole is in at this grade.  Maybe a grade harder if eliminated.  Really worthwhile.

Hee Haw 5
Sit start at the back of the niche and jam/undercut out to a good jam then roll left onto the slab.   Jump off rather than top out on this and the next one.

Unnamed  6b+   
The prow immediately to the left of Hee Haw.  Clamp the crack on the left and the seam to pull into the slab of Hee Haw.

Shining Cliff
An isolated block away from the main areas.  From the Youth Hostel Parking head up left away from the main areas and turn left along the gated track.  After 200m (second yellow post) break up right for 100m towards a jumble of boulders.  It's on the left after 800m if walking down from Higg Lane parking.  There is one sizeable prow with the following problems.

Loxia  6a
The undercut using a deep slot to make an extended reach for the top and a mantle over the overlap.  Big footledge to right out at this grade.   Might be easier /trivial for taller folk.

Squeeze Bees  6a
The line of the block. The prow from sitting to a tricky top out.

Crossbill 5
Sit start as Squeeze Bees and traverse the incuts right towards the foot ledge then top out using a right side pull.

Back at the Hostel Area

Face Plant 6a
From the start of Kaiserschmas climb straight over the roof onto the slab above.


bolehillbilly

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Egg Meat is the previously unnamed 6b+ and is 6b.

The next line is Pickle Your Knees 6b which has some innovative climbing up the bulge and hanging slab left of Egg Meat using knee bars, some opposed slopes and a rooty section to top out. 

Also a sit start to Titchy Digits which I'd done but for some reason not bothered to link in last time. :wall:  No grade change.

All courtesy of Tim.

There's some low-fi vimeo available (including birdsong) for local lovers of esoteric grit.

 

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