[Eddies]

I realise that this is a fundamental question towards training for climbing, but it’s one that I’ve not seen fully answered!

Will mid to long term gains be greater if one takes a rest day before and between two intense bouldering sessions a week (Mon-Rest, Tue-Boulder, Wed-Rest, Thur-Boulder, Fri-Rest)

Or can greater gains be had from supplemental training around two intense bouldering sessions (Mon-F-Board, Tue-Boulder, Wed-Core, Thur-Boulder, Fri-Rest)?

Obviously the supplemental training will affect the performance of each of the bouldering sessions but will asking greater from oneself encourage adaption to the workload and so accelerated gains in strength over time?

I guess It’s the argument between those who say “If you're not failing you're not getting stronger” and those who say “You don’t get stronger on your training days. You get stronger on your rest days”… Unless you’re the guy who falls off a lot during your weekly trip to the climbing wall!!

Here’s an example;

Johnny goes to the bouldering wall on Tuesdays and Thursdays and works on his projects and new climbs… Johnny climbs well because he is well rested before each session. Johnny is married!

Phillip trains at home Mondays and Wednesdays as well as climbing with Johnny at the same bouldering wall on Tuesdays and Thursdays, Phillip works on the same climbs as Johnny… Phillip climbs OK but usually not as well as Johnny because he is a little tired from the previous evenings training at home... Phillip May be single!

At the weekends Johnny and Phillip climb outside together where they are more or less evenly matched.

Six months from now would you expect Phillip to be stronger than Johnny!?

[Jaspersharpe]

Six months from now Johnny's wife has divorced him and he's engaged to Philip.

Climbing has taken a back seat as they plan their wedding and honeymoon in Rio.

Am I doing this game right?

[mrjonathanr]

Although Philip's developing tendinitis may strain  the relationship...

[SA Chris]

Are johnny and philip twins?

Do we only get full marks if we show all our workings?

What really matters is who is having the most fun (clearly Philip as he is single)

[Eddies]

The strongest is the one having the most fun.... obviously!

[tomtom]

Which one likes mayonnaise on their chips?

[Moo]

I'm not sure single people have the most fun, they definatley have the most frustration.

[andyd]

Here’s an example;
 he is a little tired from the previous evening's training at home...

Does he have a finger board or was he just pumping his fist?
I didn't realise this was a legitimate excuse for being crap

[2 Tru]

Perhaps this can be answered by looking at the extremes of this example i.e.

Jerry trains 7 days a week and under performs on Tuesday & Thursday & Rob only trains 1 day a week and is fresh on that day.
Obviously neither of these extremes are positive but the former is likely to get stronger as long as he does not get injured.

If Philip gets plenty of sleep, eats well and stretches/ injury prevention he should be the stronger climber in the end. I think there is something in Mcloud's book about not trying to 'win' or perform at every training session.

It seems plausible that as Philip's body adapts to the training load he will start to outperform his friend at their wall sessions.

Either that or Johnny and Philip realise all their shirt-off grunting and straining in dark, chalk filled cellars was just a cover for their man love for each other. They run away together and open up a boutique hotel in Brighton and live happily ever after.
 

[Krank]

try it out and see which way works for you. I don't think there will be a definitive answer as people respond very differently to training.

[nai]

I think there is something in Mcloud's book about not trying to 'win' or perform at every training session.

I think there's also something about trying to engineer a mini-peak every weekend not being beneficial so maybe both will just stay as-is unless they change their approach.

[Moo]

I'm more concerned about brighton as the place they've chosen to set up. I think that there may be too much temptation down there for them to make a proper commitment to each other in the long run.

[mrjonathanr]

Maybe Philip just needs to beef up a bit. The answer may be found in the big red bag under the magazines.

[SA Chris]

I'm more concerned about brighton as the place they've chosen to set up. I think that there may be too much temptation down there for them to make a proper commitment to each other in the long run.

Plus it's not the best place to invest in property now. Apart from Hove which is so hot right now.