[LB]

For those of you who have followed the binney protocol ever, how many moves should my circuits be for AnCap training? Last week I did 10, so 3 x (4 x 10M). This seemed short if the ultimate focus is routes. If I am to do this regularly over the winter I was wondering should I increase the no of moves as the winter progresses or should I alternate between 10 and 20, say.

There was a thread with a similar question but the answers got confused.

[cjsheps]

The most important thing to remember is that after a stint of AnCap training, your body will make adaptions. Hence, for you to continue to overload your body, you need to up the overall training load (i.e. volume/intensity). If you keep the load the same ("flat-loading"), your performance will plateau after a month or two.

[Luke Owens]

http://ukbouldering.com/media/pdf/principlestraining.pdf

I found this helpful if you haven't seen it already. From what i've previously read, AnCap sessions need to be intense with long rests between sets and gains coming from continued months of effort.

[AJM]

10-15 I think. Pretty sure by 20 moves they're too easy. Route length isn't relevant as a comparison, else no route climber would ever boulder!

[LB]

Cool. Thank you.

Short and intense. Then more of the same.

I better get on with it and try really hard then.