[Reachy]

Hello UKB,

Read a lot on these boards but this is my first post- so much good info out there.

I was recently training with a mate of mine and was working on the fingerboard (BM 2000)- Starting out on Repeater sets then onto what my mate had been working on- basically moving one hand at a time footless to another hold. Normally on dead hangs and Repeaters I can hang smaller holds for longer (like back 3, Middle two, 1 mono and middle two/ bottom run Crimps- but the last two are desperate for 4/5 sec ) but as soon as I try and move between even the two 4 finger slots to the 35's I seem to come undone. I also can't hang even the big slot on the Beastmaker 1 armed either, and campusing seems a mile off..

would this mean I have to work on my shoulder girdle strength, or would this be a locking issue (To move between holds?

Style wise I’m quite static and use my reach to my advantage, Also from a past in rugby i still have a bit Bulk (14 Stone currently but no gut just bigger than the average climber). I Currently Bat around the V5 grade indoors and around F6B+ on rock. Also love training on steep board problems on Moon holds- not sure how much this info will help, but thought I would spill all the same.

Essay over,

If I need to MTFU tell me, but if I can target this issue even better!
thanks.

[Nibile]

Hey!
I used to do the same a while ago, but I think it's not very effective. One of the limits is that you need to be too precise to exactly get a finger pocket, so basically I was campusing from pocket to slopers, to rungs.
I think it's a lot more effective to train one arm dead hangs with some weight off to build the necessary strength in shoulders as well.
You'll find a lotof topics here about one arm dead hangs, two armed dead hangs with added weight and the likes. Because we are a sad bunch of trainers.

P.S. I think that you can easily sack the BM for the moment. If you have access to a wall, do good sessions there instead of fingerboarding. You'll perfect your technique, you'll have fun, and you'll progress in a more complete way. Core, especially. Leave the BM for when you'll really need to step up a notch for a problem that is really another level fro you. It's a very good card that you could be playing too soon.
I hope this helps.

[Reachy]

Hi Nibile,

Thanks for coming back mate- seen you posting before and give out really sound advice! Kind of got the training bug badly, and managed to get up to 4 X 2/3 hour sessions a week in- splitting time between climbing problems with mates and working projects on the boards. reason i went for the BM was to try and get greater stimulus for finger strength and could fit more of these sessions in, but not more wall time.

 [/quote]

P.S. I think that you can easily sack the BM for the moment. If you have access to a wall, do good sessions there instead of fingerboarding. You'll perfect your technique, you'll have fun, and you'll progress in a more complete way. Core, especially. Leave the BM for when you'll really need to step up a notch for a problem that is really another level fro you. It's a very good card that you could be playing too soon.
I hope this helps.

I Defiantly need to work on certain Techniques more, especially when i feel bunched up and unable to lank my way out of a problem. the idea was to have a few sessions of Fingerboarding on top for raw strength.

guessing I’m barking up the wrong tree a bit.

Thanks for the response!

[Sasquatch]

P.S. I think that you can easily sack the BM for the moment. If you have access to a wall, do good sessions there instead of fingerboarding. You'll perfect your technique, you'll have fun, and you'll progress in a more complete way. Core, especially. Leave the BM for when you'll really need to step up a notch for a problem that is really another level fro you. It's a very good card that you could be playing too soon.
I hope this helps.

I'd second this.  When you're looking at training, I find myself always having to remember two things:
1.  Principle of specificity - The best way to get better at something is to do that thing. 
2.  KISS (Keep it simple stupid) - Nail down your weakness, and do focused effort at improving it.  It's actually simple, but simple things are often hard.....

The only reason to be doing FB would be if fingers are your weakness. I'd argue they're not.  If you can boulder in the v5 range and hang the small BM2K crimps, then your fingers are probably not your weakest point.

[krymson]

Hey!

P.S. I think that you can easily sack the BM for the moment. If you have access to a wall, do good sessions there instead of fingerboarding. You'll perfect your technique, you'll have fun, and you'll progress in a more complete way. Core, especially. Leave the BM for when you'll really need to step up a notch for a problem that is really another level fro you. It's a very good card that you could be playing too soon.
I hope this helps.

Of all people to say forget the beastmaker and "just go climb", i would never have guess Nibs! 

[Nibile]

 
I'd like that people avoid doing my same mistakes! In reality my advice is just to avoid future competitors on the BM...

[Reachy]

I'd second this.  When you're looking at training, I find myself always having to remember two things:
1.  Principle of specificity - The best way to get better at something is to do that thing. 
2.  KISS (Keep it simple stupid) - Nail down your weakness, and do focused effort at improving it.  It's actually simple, but simple things are often hard.....

The only reason to be doing FB would be if fingers are your weakness. I'd argue they're not.  If you can boulder in the v5 range and hang the small BM2K crimps, then your fingers are probably not your weakest point.

Thanks Sasqutch, i was looking at FBing to just suppliment my Wall sessions- agreed its not my weakest point (Body Positioning problems you cannot Thug seem to shut me down more then the holds themselves...)

[masonwoods101]

That's deffinetly a case of climb more varied problems to improve. Different rock etc... Get on the grit more... Awsome for improving body position