[tomtom]

2013 totals:
Outdoor: 58   
Indoor: 3 
Training: 6
New Grade 7's 17

An early post as it doesn't look like I'll be getting out today... MrsTT is unwell, and I probably should stay at home and look after her rather than disappear for 5 or 6 hours to go climbing Anyway, its getting too hot now, and I've missed the early morning opportunity... I've only been out twice this week, but both have been good trips..

On Wednesday - weather was overcast and dry and I had the chance to get out about lunchtime, so I headed back up to Farleton. Ever since visiting the place for the first time about 6 weeks ago with Andy Popp and Stubbs, I've been drawn back 3 or 4 times to try two problems that spanked me on my first visit. The Coil (7A+) and New Rose (7B). Both Vertical/slightly overhanging (new Rose), involving long moves on thin holds/crozzles. On our first visit, Stubbs managed the Coil and AndyP nearly - but with the moves statically. Beta on here suggested a semi dynamic move was an alternative method - and whilst this didnt feel right on previous visits I decided to give this method a good go. It all sounds quite simple when I think about it, pull on, reach up right (out of balance move) to gain a high crozzle that 1/2 pad of two fingers can go into - Crimp like shit on those fingers, bring feet up fairly high and slap for the top... I made considerable progress this way, and even slapped the top on one attempt (though cunningly forgetting to actually try and hold the top! - why does this happen?). The problem uses a surprising amount of core to keep myself close to the rock, and hurts the two fingers fro, the RH hold. In fact this is what stopped me from trying any more - some deep seated aching from the base of my middle finger made me think I should stop before an ache turned into an injury. So I scrambled up the hill to...

New Rose 7B



Its a re-post of an image I'm afraid - but its all important for the New Rose - because its the main hold in the problem..

Its an odd problem - in many ways its a one move wonder - but its great! Its reeled me in, as I felt miles away from this when I first tried the problem - I could not really pull on - and in subsequent sessions I was able to pull on but for 2 or 3 times, and then for a split second and at later attempts a second or so. On Wednesday I pulled on not really expecting much - having spent quite a bit of finger power on the Coil.. But surprisingly it felt OK - and my skin felt alright which is quite a critical issue. That there crozzle chews up skin on the index finger and the inside of the thumb where it catches on a wee spike.. I pulled on - and stayed on. Twice. I pulled on and slapped for the next hold. And fell off. I did this a couple of times, but was obvious progress on previous attempts. I then reverted to a lower foothold that I had first used - but then moved from using Andy and Stubbs beta.. oh and it felt good - I pulled on and I was in solid and slapped close to the next hold. Next go I slapped, and got the next hold but not quite right and dropped it. I had to stop for a decent break, and my index finger was about to go through - so I applied a small film of re-inforcing superglue and had to wait for a good few mins for it to dry up...

The next go it went in quite a surreal blur - it was all quite vivid and slow motion like! Its bizarre that probably 5-7 seconds on a boulder problem logged so many brain entries. The superglued finger locked the crozzle fine, "BELIEVE it will hold" I told myself, then I pulled on and remember really locking my body into the rock with my RF - pulling the body tension in hard, locked in position. I then reached up for the higher LH hold statically and grabbed it clean as by body tension sagged. Pulling in hard again, LF up then the final move for the break - I thought about snatching it - thinking it was far away, but really it was by the top of my head and I just calmly popped a hand into the break and relaxed. Strange - 5-7 seconds of pure concentrated body tension/position and boning down on a tiny crozzle felt so perfect and together. I momentarily thought of dropping off there, but instead traversed right and over the top to finish properly - there was an odd moment of clarity whilst traversing where I spotted a fantastic fossil shell right in front of me in the face above the break and just sat (well sat in a kind of hands in slopey break feet on little edges kind of way) and looked at it for 5-10 seconds before carrying on in perfect calm.. Superb - one of the best problems I've done in a while.

If anyone is interested its the first problem GCW cranks up in this video.. Its an odd problem - it doesnt look great in the video but climbs really well...


Friday - back to Helsby and time to get back to work on my roof project from last year.



Progress is being made on this - and easy roof moves lead to a tough move to match on the lip. I've found a toehook that gives me enough to bring my LH to match on the lip, but its a real core dependant move. It climbs like a classic grit roof with foot toe shennanigans to keep your weight under the roof so crap holds on the lip can be held - quite unlike many other things I've climbed on Sandstone. Its a good work out for me - as I get 6-10 decent efforts on it then my core is packing in from all that sideways toe pulling~! Also added a footless traverse to the Helsby in the woods buttress - which has probably been done before but is quite fun as eliminates go..

Meanwhile the hot weather has started - which is good for loafing around in the Sun, but a bit frustrating for climbing.. I suspect the next week will involve another trip to Farleton to get on the Coil again (its shady 'til 1 ish) and some more Sandstone puntering - its a bit hot for much of the crimpy stuff now...

[fried]

Good report.

Monday - Start diet feel tired and  irritable.
Tuesday - Still tired  and irritable, supposed to climb.but no energy.
Wednesday - Crack and have a kebab for lunch. Yummy.
Thursday/ Friday - work.
Saturday - Need to get some shoes resoled, so park up at Sabots but sadly the shoe dude is not there. Head off for the calm of Rocher de oiseau. I have mislaid my topo, so I just wander about climbing stuff I like the look of. Why this place is not busier I don't know, it has some class lines. No arrows on the rocks I suppose.

After head over to Segognole and do loads of easy problems then polish off a couple of reds which seemed much easier than some of blue  problems I've been doing recently.Font grades in Font, or my feet starting to finally work?

Sunday - sun, beer, balcony.

weight back down to 74.8kg

[kelvin]

Nice stuff Tom. For someone like me who's miles from rock in the week, it's quite inspiring seeing some pics with your posts - keeps in mind why I bother going to the wall when I hate it so much.

That kebab sounds good Fried...

Goals for this year.

V4 - dunno. Doesn't feel like I have, even if I have!

E1 - tick.

6b onsight, get on 7a - need to actually do some sport for this.

Mon - Boulder. Warmup. Try V2/3 and 4. Crimpy, 30deg overhanging V4 is nails for me, won't happen but that's the point...
Tue - Rest
Wed - Boulder. Warmup. Try V3/4. All overhanging and crimpy.
Thu - Boulder. Warmup. Got V1 on slab and statically. Meant feet very high and crimp the hell out of a match. Happy with that!
Fri - Boulder. Warmup. Try V3/4. Cruised a V2 first go, do other V1 on the slab I hadn't done. Tried V4 on the slab. Need to be more flexible.
Sat - Worked late.
Sun - Just finished work. Time to watch the tennis. I love tennis, I've even kipped overnight under a tarp at Wimbledon.



Reflected a lot on my climbing this week. 'Bit quirky' seems to be the problem. I'm happy to be above gear, no issues there but lack confidence at times in my ability to do moves. No fear of falling but a definite fear of failing, I hate failing. So scrapped any ideas of doing routes indoors as really have no psyche for it and IMO gain very little from it. Outside is all that matters. I'm comfy on lead outside, even if I'm not inside. So it's a matter of working harder moves/problems indoors and that should give me confidence in my ability to hang in there. Does that sound right?
Realised that the only reason I fell seconding Pull My Daisy was due to not giving my utter all first time - I should know this. Eng 5c on slabs I can do, I need to know this, no doubts. (Loving the tennis ATM) I'm happy to work boulders but not happy to do the same on routes - if this helps me onsight trad, then I'm good with it.

STG - Get back to were I was on overhangs prior to tearing mu medial ligament in January.

 

[tomtom]

Thanks Gents - I always have lots to write in my head, just sometimes leave it too late to get it down!
Liking the tarp pitched between two umbrella's

[Muenchener]

STG: Anything from this list of Frankenjura classics.
MTG (2013): Frankenjura VII onsight; Alpine multipitch VI; Welsh trad E2
   Redpoint UIAA VIII-, then 7a, then 5.12a. This should allow for a satisfying amount of Big Grade progression in a relatively short period of time
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

M: Bike to work ca 24km.
T: 
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Routes 5c 6a 6b 6a 6b 6a+ 6b. I am lacking in endurance, having spent the last several weeks bouldering on plastic and projecting 3-bolt routelets. That's ok.
T:
F: Alpine approach training: 45 minutes step-ups w/12kg rucksack
S: Family backpacking weekend in Tirol complete with mountain lake swimming.
S: ditto

My Ailefroide trip in two weeks is on again; one of my partners who had dropped out has declared himself fit again earlier than expected. Yyfy.

[cheque]

M- Rest. Destroyed from previous day's flailing. My fingerfucker turned up in the post- good timing as fingers feeling pretty tweaky.
T- Depot. Way too hot. Tried to do a circuit board session but nothing in the tank for more than 15ish moves at a time. Sacked it for fingery bouldering and feet-on campussing.
W- Rest.
T- Turned down offer of Anston Stones for not-really-agreed session at Long Tor Quarry with someone who's mobile number I don't have. Turns out Long Tor Quarry is not a fun place to hang out on your own. Also lost fingerfucker in undergrowth. Went exploring, checked out a few other esoteric quarries, messed about on undocumented/ insignificant grit boulders I found in a wood, ended up soloing at Brassington 'til dark. Won't help my redpointing grade but an ace evening.
F- Rest.
S- An hour's bouldering at Raven Tor, some easy things then worked on Saline Drip which is great training as it has the sort of horrifically fingery holds I can't use properly, then walk with girlfriend.
S- Rest.

The current weather is making me feel more positive about having a seepage-prone project on a north-facing wall. Hopefully I'll get it done this week. 

[kelvin]

Nice report Habrich 

[Eddies]

Monday: Room Routine (3 sets of: 30x pushups, 10x pullups, 10x18kg bicep curls on each arm. 3min rests between sets)
Tuesday: Chapel sesh – Classics circuit followed by PE routes.
Wednesday: Room Routine (3 sets of: 30x pushups, 10x pullups, 10x18kg bicep curls on each arm. 3min rests between sets)
Thursday: REST – Wasdale w/end away
Friday: REST – Wasdale w/end away
Saturday: REST – Wasdale w/end away
Sunday: REST – Wasdale w/end away

[duncan]

STG: rehab. wrist and shoulder. Lose 1.5kg. E3 by end of July?
MTG: big route in Italy/Switzerland this August. Don’t get injured.
LTG: increasingly unrealistic LH&F goals in Alps and USA.

Review: rehab. finally seems to be working. Busy week with in-laws in-situ. Champing at the bit this weekend but car out of my use, couldn't find transport for a day trip, didn't feel I could risk two consecutive days away with iffy wrist.  Grant application (for shoulder injury treatments!) has been short-listed which will keep me busy this summer. 72.5kg
Plan: Moderate trad.+++. Weight loss. Avoid injury.

M - Shoulder and wrist stuff, single-leg squats, stretches.
T - Shoulder and wrist stuff.
W - Shoulder and wrist stuff.
T - Shoulder and wrist stuff, hilly run.
F - Visit to Physio: he's happy. Shoulder and wrist stuff, squats, stretches.
S - Short flat run. Shoulder and wrist stuff.
S - Fairlop concrete boulders. 20 problems c.UK 5a-5c. Wrist and shoulder OK. Hurrah.

[tommytwotone]

STG: Dirty Dozen in new Yorkshire Grit Guide up to and including the E1s
LTG: Font 7b (oh how amusing that is juxtaposed against the STG!)

M: Nowt, plus a shit night's sleep to boot
T: Sheff to pick up my lost phone, then a tired, crap and sweaty hour and a bit at The Works
W: Nowt - went to a gig in the evening.
T: Nowt - sacked of post-work climbing plans as I was so tired.
F: Nowt, went to bed at 10pm...
S: ...and awoke at 12 noon. Must've been pretty run down.
S: Early start then off to Earl on offwidthing mission. "Warmed up" on Butterly Crack VS 4c (ha ha), which eventually succombed after 90 mins of attempts from me and my partner. Pretty pissed off I didn't get the lead. Headed down and did Earl Crack, which is one of the nicest routes I've done in a while.

Main goal was an offwidth that my partner had spotted in the chossy quarry off the the left hand side of the crag - we thought it was a potential FA until we discovered it in the Leeds Wall database. Well, on turning up it appeared that a) it hasn't seen that much attention since and b) we need more than 1 large cam to do it. We'll be back with more gear and a big brush!

[shark]

11.4-5

Had flu all week and felt awful. Thought I was going to lose my voice. Seems to have gone this morning but still croaky and  feeble. Ease back into it this week.

[Luke Owens]

Monday - Rest

Tuesday - Rest

Wednesday - Dinbren - Back on the F7b+ proj, moves felt easier again when dogging up putting the clips in. Had about 3 redpoints getting powered out making the third clip. Moves are feeling better so hopefully if I can stop getting so powered out it'll be in the bag!

Thursday - Castle Inn - Took the girlfriend out, she's got new shoes that now fit so she's psyched. She led her first route for 2 years, she has a very bad fear of heights and went from getting very scared on top rope last week to leading in good style with no mishaps this week! Awesome!

Friday - ill/Rest

Saturday - Family beach trip/bought some new climbing shoes. Scarpa Instinct VS's (They are awesome!)

Sunday - Pen Trwyn, wanted to get on Mayfair Wall/LPT but it was in the sun/tide was in so went round the corner and did three awesome (but greasy!) routes:

String of Pearls (F6b+) - On-sighted, proper classic!
Sheik Yer Money (F6c) - Burly steep start, blew the on-sight cutting loose, got it on redpoint and almost took a whipper from the run out to the chains on hand jams (Never jammed in my life!!)
Stake Out (F7a) - Almost flashed! Looked rubbish from the deck but had such a good compression heelhook sequence.

Went back round to Mayfair wall and it was busy so put clips in on Bloodsports (F7b) and worked the moves but it was mega greasy. Great route!

Great session! I feel a F7a flash/on-sight is possible soon if I pick a route that suites me (Technical)!

[T_B]

STG - being fit enough for some Trad 6/7 July (first weekend or even full day out since September last year!) and some DWS in August
LTG - lose 3Kg (from 88 - 85Kg) and get in bouldering shape for trips to N'umberland in September and Font in October

86.8Kg

M - Foot on campusing, circuit board (2 x complete circuits twice - 40+ moves)
T
W- double session day. Lunch - as per Monday. P.M Works 2 hours easyish session with - dozen or so bumble bee problems, mainly 1st go.
T -
F - Rest for weekend...
S - Dove Crag, Patterdale. Warmed up on Fast and Furious, then set to work on Vlad (E7). Basically bit off more than I could chew having not tied on since September  - got half way up (along) and ran out of arms/mental strength to do a 20 foot runout from the 2.5 friend. Took a decent lob. Was hoping to redpoint it with the gear in, but trying ground up with no chalk on it is way too much of an ask! It's bold, as well as being F7c climbing. Amazing route and great to be up there. No-one else at the crag.
S - Gordale. Led Face Route (E3) and then did Well Hung, a very long 7b with a traddy feel that goes through the roof to the left of Pierrepoint. Seconded it to strip the gear. Knackered!

Bit daft in hindsight to try an E7 having done so little but brilliant to be back up at Dove - the best hard crag in the Lakes. I can feel a bit of fitness coming through, but with opportunities to tie on limited, I'm planning to move away from circuits when climbing indoors. Though quite pysched to do some more traversing at the Tor, as it means I don't fall off onto my back...

[nai]

Immediate goals - trad & sport OSing
Autumn - 8a

M - AM - garage 2 hrs hard bouldering; Eve - 25x22 move Aerocap circuit - 60s on, 45s off. Completed with a puff on

T - AM weights - chest, shoulders & triceps; Eve - garage fixing new holds & making new problems then 10 easy problems x 2

W rest

Th - trad lime, 2xE1s & 2xE2s; Eve - garage 4x10 easy moves, 10 mins rest

F - garage Aerocap circuit 4x4. 1:30 on, 30 off. Had changed the circuit slightly and reduced rest, too hard, lots of failed sets toward the end.

SS - rest

Anther decent week but been feeling tired, going to have an easy week and make a plan to fit  in around holidays etc over the next few months

[Dolly]

M Hot session on the Wave. Pilates in the evening
T
W Foundry @ lunchtime with the aim of doing some circuits. Did a few then tried to copy T_B s circuit and couldn't even do the moves to make it round once
T Quick shed sess
F
S
S quick boiling shed sess -  more like a sauna than climbing training

[Duma]

Effort habrich.

S/MTG - keep niggles in check, run regularly, get out more. If I do any hard stuff that'll be nice too.
LTG - 8A, 68kg

M - Wall in eve, mostly new blacks i think. Then nights
T - Nights
W - went to new wall - redpoint bristol. It was ok, I was not climbing very well. Spent most of time in the cave so power focused I suppose. Nights
T - Nights
F - Set a couple of blacks to finish the circuit at TCA, knackering, but pretty pleased with them. First hard things I've set. Drive to Cornwall.
S - lie on beach, swim, chill.
S - see above, then drive home in eve.
69kg. Pleased to be under 70 again, not done much toward it though, so probably temporary.

[webbo]

Mon. Bike 1hr  4 x 1/2mile efforts.
Tue. Board did a project and got a bit closer on a longer term one.
Wed. Nothing.
Thu. Board 16 problems and each ones mirror image. Did a couple of harder versions. Hot
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Board same session as Thurs but it seemed harder due to being hotter.
Sun. Bike 83.80 miles 4 hrs 55 mins very warm I had 92F on my bike computor. 

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: Rehab elbow, get routes fit in Europe over the summer, tick summat in rOctober..

M: Easy trad and elbow excercises - Froggat run out slabs up to HVS.
T: Elbow excercises
W: Elbow excercises - Awesome amounts of pain from Sheffield's finest sadist/physio.
T: Elbow excercises
F: 6 or 7 mile fell run - hot, hot, hot!! Running like a right punter at the moment, think me achillies is playing up.
S: Elbow excercises - Sharrow Festival
S: Elbow excercises

  Not great eh?  Been told to not pull even remotely hard for 4 weeks. Trying to run but achillies is now playing up... Think I need a holiday! Falling to bits!

 

[krymson]

Endurance seems to go down the drain when weather gets hot. for everyone feeling the heat just wanted to recommend

-climb before noon or if you are on plastic, after the sun goes down. even on the hottest summer day night time temps are cool.

-monitor your core temp and keep it low as possible. bring cold drinks, or bring a flask filled with ice which you can fill later with water or other beverages.

- understand that you will need to take longer breaks and lower the volume of climbing compared to cooler months otherwise you will overheat and performance goes down the drain.

-perhaps do more bouldering or short routes - its' more fun and less taxing to work on strength than endurance when it's hot

-skin wise try liquid chalk and/or antihydral, these help me quite a bit in the summer.

-ice cold beer after climbing is essential for recovery

not rocket science but just a few things that help me deal with my local hot and muggy summers(daily average temps around 31/32...)