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[South Lakes][Fairy Steps][Bone Machine][7c] (Read 2588 times)

thekettle

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Climb just right of Ash Tree Wall from sitting: Start with LH in the crack (of ATW) and RH on a low sidepull. Crimp upward via a pocket on the right. Footblocks are out.

video here:

Mike Tyson

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Nice one John. Can't view the video on my mobile but will check it out soon. Good effort!

Greg C

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Hi John,

Sorry for the delayed reply I wanted to go and have a look at this to refresh my memory as I (and possibly Gaskins) have done something similar on this section of the wall.

Having been for a look I still can't quite remember if I did this, exactly as per you beta, or not, so I'll accredit it to you unless Gaskins says otherwise. I distinctly remember trying it but then realising I could reach good holds on the right arete pretty easily once off the ground and a move or so in and thus got a bit disinterested, but I really can't recall whether I persevered to finish it off.

Anyway nice one.

Have you tried/done Mook Squad?

thekettle

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Not been on Mook Squad yet, looks cool though.
Starting any further right than described definitely leaves you with much easier holds on the arete, but from the starting holds described these (as far as I could tell) only become reachable once you're on the RH pocket before the move to the break, and its just as easy to go straight for the break. See what Gaskins says..

r-man

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Nice one John. Had little look at this the other day, haven't tried it yet, but I'll give it a go next time. Looks pretty tough, and the line makes sense from those start holds.

Has anyone else done Peewee's low start to Ash Tree Wall? Didn't do it, felt like it might add a grade, but makes pulling off the ground with just one pad more amenable for the non tall. Incidentally, I found a nice rockover method for the top move, but I don't think it drops the grade as it adds an extra move to an intermediate.

Greg, Polish Dave did Mook Squad and thought it was good. He did it in a few goes, but thinks it probably suits taller people. I couldn't do the crux, very tricky blind slap - felt hard for the grade to me.

Greg C

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Nice one, thanks for both your info.

No idea whether anyone's tried Pete's lower hand start to Ash Tree Wall.

Greg C

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thekettle

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Ive done Pete's lower hand start to Ash Tree Wall, felt about the same difficulty-wise - an easier pull-on offset by the extra hand move. Didn't feel 7c+ to me.

peewee

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I did that start by accident, didn't know that it started a hold higher  :slap: :slap:, it's probably a better method for the short who cant reach the normal start. Good effort on Bone Machine I remember those holds briefly from when I was last there and my joints are hurting at the thought of those holds!!

Pete

 

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