[webbo]

Mon. Weights and fingerboard first session on beastmaker since I injured my finger, felt desperate.
Tue. Nothing
Wed. Bike after work 20 secs on 40 secs off x 5 3 sets.
Thu. Worked late.
Fri. Home board first session since injury wnt ok. Put some foot ledges on to make warming up less brutal.
Sat. Crookrise. Quested a round flailing and failing, got up some stuff not sure what it was tho. Knackered afterwards.
Sun. Bike 79 hilly miles at just over 17mph. Out on best bike first time this year.

[Luke Owens]

STG - 7b (My project) and Font 7A
MTG - 7c and Font 7A+
LTG - 8a and Font 7B/+

Monday - Rest

Tuesday - Oswestry Wall with Girlfriend. Managed to tick one of the "Hard" comp problems I didn't do in the comp last week. climbed some easier stuff and helped out Danielle, she crushed!

Wednesday - Fingerboard repeaters 5 sec hangs, 5 sec rest x 6 (2 minutes rest between sets reduced from 3 minutes last week)
1. One hand on 20's one hand on 35's on Slopers.
2. Alternate hands as above.
3. Middle 2
4. Pinch grip with a 20kg weight attached to a piece of 2x4.
5. Pinch grip with other hand as above.
6. Front 3 - open hand.
7. Back 2 with one foot on chair
(Did 2 sets of all the above hangs)

Thursday - Rest

Friday - Fingerboard repeaters 5 sec hangs, 5 sec rest x 6 (3 minutes rest between sets reduced from 3 minutes last week)
1. One hand on 20's one hand on 35's on Slopers.
2. Alternate hands as above.
3. Middle 2
4. Pinch grip with a 20kg weight attached to a piece of 2x4.
5. Pinch grip with other hand as above.
6. Front 3 - open hand.
7. Back 2 with one foot on chair
(Did 2 sets of all the above hangs)

Saturday - Long walk with little one in baby carrier in the Eglwyseg.

Sunday - First time working my new route after bolting it last week. One elusive slopey move stopped me most of the day. I finally figured it out towards the end of the day. 2 other guys had a go on top-rope and reckoned it was 7b. Can't wait to get on redpoint, I feel lucky to of found a new route that is at the grade I want to climb at this year!

[andy_e]

Whoops, missed last week.

STG: Bush Bully, Under Rumsfeld, Ian's Traverse, Kenny Boy Lay
MTG: 1-4-7, Hunter's Roof
LTG: 7C+

Last week:

M: Rest
T: Wall
W: Rest
T: Wall
F: Rest
S: After sitting in the office all week staring at perfect conditions outside, I awake on Saturday morning to a huge pile of snow. NNFN. Tidy house/make nice food/sort out Raspberry Pi instead.
S: Weather forecast looked terrible but I nipped down the A1 anyway with a view to exploring if the weather was crap. Get a phone-call from Martin to say that Harrogate is cold and dry, which is great because I'd just driven through a large foggy damp snowball. Conditions were good on the other side. A good warm-up circuit at Caley was had before the weather crapped out. I was going to bail to the pub but I bumped into andyd who suggested Jess' Roof. Thought I might as well give it a try as I'd previously dismissed it as painful and shit. How wrong I was. The bottom moves are a pleasant juggy romp to a few hard moves to get the top. I didn't do any of the hard moves  as I couldn't work out the foot beta, but I've been given that now so should be sorted for next time I go. Charlotte pissed up it, nearly doing it a few times but fatigue set in and she didn't manage it. Good effort.
M: Rest.
T: Wall. New comp problems set by Garden. Flashed 17/25 which is quite good going, but I still made some silly mistakes. Do a hardish move cutting loose on a big volume but it hurts my shoulder, which is a shame as I was going really well. I think it's OK mostly but still aches a little on a few moves.
W: Rest.
T: Wall again. Got some more of the comp problems and my shoulder didn't feel too severe.
F: Rest. Shoulder ached in the morning. Drive to Cambridge.
S: Cambridge. Beer, wine and lots of cheese.
S: Cambridge. Beer and Sunday lunch.

An alright few weeks for climbing indoors and managed to scrape a semi-decent day outdoors. Fingers and shoulder are feeling better after a rest at the weekend. Looking forward to this weekend, getting some Whitehouses and/or Brimham and/or Jess' Roof time in and I may even re-open my account on Hunter's Roof.