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How little is too little? (Read 2415 times)

Nibile

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How little is too little?
January 21, 2013, 07:01:07 pm
With my new daily schedule, time for training will be drastically reduced. To procrastinate just a little bit hanging the boots to the proverbial nail, I'm trying to keep something - a little - whenever I can or I feel like.

Most of my max deadhanging sessions are made of just one or two hangs for each prehension. 3 prehensions. So up to 6 hangs!!!

Most of my board sessions are made of probably less than 10 good tries on a few problems.
Intensity is always kept as high as possible.

Is this little too little?

psychomansam

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#1 Re: How little is too little?
January 21, 2013, 07:51:01 pm
I think only you can answer that.

Sasquatch

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#2 Re: How little is too little?
January 21, 2013, 08:02:26 pm
Is this little too little?

Too little for what?  To maintain?  to improve? to minimize loss?
Also you don't reference frequency.....

Nibile

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#3 Re: How little is too little?
January 21, 2013, 08:24:10 pm
Ha! Good questions!
Frequency could probably be kept high but still hard to tell. Not daily sessions but 4-5 sessions a week, hopefully. I want to take advantage of the weekends.
The aim is and has always been to improve, otherwise I'd had stopped years ago, clearly now a reality check is de rigueur...
Even just maintaining would be good. Actually, I think that having less time for full board sessions and doing more short and super intense fingerboarding sessions could even make me improve.



Dexter

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#4 Re: How little is too little?
January 21, 2013, 08:57:01 pm
is there some form of warm up beforehand? Or is it just straight in full intensity?
Personally I'd say that it could work but only if that was doing say 2 sessions a day which by the sounds of if is not feasible

tomtom

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#5 Re: How little is too little?
January 21, 2013, 09:13:10 pm
For me, about 1.5 two hour sessions a week (wall, FB or crag) is enough to keep me ticking over.. 1 is slow (pretty slow) decay, 2 is slow improvement...

JohnM

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#6 Re: How little is too little?
January 21, 2013, 10:14:53 pm
Apparently the G-spot is only 4 inches in anyway so I wouldn't worry.  Oh hang on I just actually read the post!  By the sounds of it in the past you might have been over doing it so you might find you get good gains doing shorter intense sessions with more rest.  I find that if I am in a heavy training period I don't notice any gains and sometimes feel like i'm going down hill.  I trained heavily last Autumn and got injured as a result and had to cut down but i've noticed some of the things I trained then have come into fruition now I have cut down and i'm more rested generally.

Nibile

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#7 Re: How little is too little?
February 11, 2013, 02:25:32 pm
Update.
Despite basically not climbing anymore, I don't want to become a fat bastard, and then you never know, I could find a rich girl and quit my 3 jobs soon, so I keep some training in the lunch break.
I try to do some fingerboarding, max one arm hangs, 2 or 3 sets on 3 different holds.
I do some system: locks, underclings, campusing.
I lift on Saturdays.

These three session more or less keep me somehow going. I can still do 4 one armers on my right arm (they were 6 last Summer...).
Fingers are not bad, monos are improved and front levers either.
We will see...

 

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