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Max Strength Hangs - Resting Times (Read 8980 times)

Sasquatch

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#25 Re: Max Strength Hangs - Resting Times
January 23, 2013, 06:01:14 pm
No it was the big edges.

I was talking to a mate about it today whilst we were bouldering at TCA. Most of my mates fingerboard and have done for years but I generally climb a little bit harder than them. Not sure what it is, I class myself as having decent technique and put lots of weight through my feet, maybe that's it.

Thing is, when you get on a steep wall with nothing but small edges there's no hiding from the fact that you need strong fingers, so I've decided to work on that weakness. As I said before, do you reckon I should do the 35 second hang thing before trying to do strength work specifically?

I would think you're fine to work on strength, the difference is in what type of strength work you do.  I wouldn't do the added weight protocol.  I think doing BW hangs for a bit on the big slots until you can comfortable hang them for 5 sets of 15-20 seconds, then I would start in on the beginner repeater set for 6ish weeks or so to stimulate muscle growth (hypertrophy).  After you finish that first repeater cycle, we can see where you're at, but you're really starting at stage 1.

cha1n

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#26 Re: Max Strength Hangs - Resting Times
January 23, 2013, 10:31:32 pm
Thanks for the info Sasquatch.

I'm just a bit worried that the hypertrophy will ruin my current recruitment. I have no idea if that's a reasonable assumption to make, but I've only just started to feel like I can pull hard again after stopping route climbing a few months ago.

Does that sound nonsensical?

Sasquatch

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#27 Re: Max Strength Hangs - Resting Times
January 23, 2013, 10:46:55 pm
I am not an expert on the science, so I generally defer to those who know better(despite arguing with them until I understand). 
My take would be that it depends on your goals.  If you have a goal that you're focused on right now that is big enough, then go for it.   

 

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