[JDobo]

Might be a bit of a noob question but when training on the fingerboard are you better off training all grips at once or isolating them into different groups but training them less often. An example just incase i am making no sence  Front 2 monday Middle two Wednesday and Back two Friday or training all of them MWF but with less volume at each session.

[Nibile]

I train them all in one session, but I trimmed the sequence so that each finger gets enough rest, starting from the weakest couple, in my case back two.
so for instance I do back2, front2, mid2.
if I need to train particular grips or holds (monos, slopey pockets) that are particularly nasty I put them first.

anyway starting from the basic grips (slopers, edges half crimp) builds up a base for future progression with less injury risk.

[Probes]

JDobo, i've done a training program on this handout, that has a bit of periodisation/timeline where you can aim to train for one specific goal/weakness. What it does though is give you 'weeks off' where you go back to training everything generally. Takes a little bit of reading if you are new to setting your own training programs. But if you are generally just beginning, I think just training everything a little bit, 1 or 2 sets, in each session, not over doing it and doing it for a few months is gonna be more benefit, build up a good all round base than nailing only a couple of specific hangs. 

http://www.pdf-archive.com/2011/08/04/crusher-holds-handout-3-5mb/

[Paul B]

Where have the length of cycles come from? They don't seem to follow the super-compensation type wave shape I've seen elsewhere?

[Probes]

Super compensation occurs somewhere between 1 and 3 days as I understand. So what they cycles try to show is a bigger training plan. As if you do 2 or 3 sessions spread over a week, for an initial 3 weeks, you follow a 'normal' super compensation pattern for those 3 weeks - aimed at 1 specific hang. Then you stop the cycle for extra rest, general training session, a bit of a target at that 1 specific hang, rest again. Then back into a big 3 week cycle. The idea of this is that someone is likey to be climbing on top of this training so its trying to minimise injury. My take on how to target 1 thing, keep everything else lightly trained, rest and climb normally as well on top.
Works for me, thats why i've got tendonitis and fucked fingers.

[JDobo]

Awesome stuff thanks for the great responses. Probes do you think that cycles may be a little too advanced for someone who is bouldering around V4/V5? Either way I will definitely give the handout a read as it will be useful when I'm stronger 

[2 Tru]

Sorry to raise an old thread.

There is a reason I started a thread on technique; I am weak as hell. I've been using the beastmaker app and the 1000 board and found the only way I can complete a workout at my grade level (6C) is to take 20kg off with a pulley. This still gives me a proper workout that leaves me wrecked and peeling off at the end but is this the best way to go to get stronger?

I tried the Font 5A workout with no pulley and still could only complete a handfull of sets sometimes not even being able to do a single hang (How the hell can a 5A climber hang middle two?)

So should I stick with the pulley and try to take 1kg off a week or ditch it and keep trying the 5A workout without it?

Cheers for all your help.

[Wipey Why]

Ignore the grades in the Beastmaker App, I don;t think they gave them much thought as some of the 'harder' ones are easier than the 'easier' ones.

[Dexter]

I'd say if what you're currently doing is feeling really hard then stick with it and as you say try to gradually decrease the weight.

[shark]

Sorry to raise an old thread.

There is a reason I started a thread on technique; I am weak as hell. I've been using the beastmaker app and the 1000 board and found the only way I can complete a workout at my grade level (6C) is to take 20kg off with a pulley. This still gives me a proper workout that leaves me wrecked and peeling off at the end but is this the best way to go to get stronger?

I tried the Font 5A workout with no pulley and still could only complete a handfull of sets sometimes not even being able to do a single hang (How the hell can a 5A climber hang middle two?)

So should I stick with the pulley and try to take 1kg off a week or ditch it and keep trying the 5A workout without it?

Cheers for all your help.

Stick with the pulley - it gives you the full workout and is progressive. If you maintain taking 1kg off each week that's good progress (after early gains I now aim to add 2.5kg a month).

Try to time your fingerboard sessions so they follow a rest day - that way you will be able to squeeze a bit more intensity from the session.