[haydn jones]

So would like to raise a couple of questions to have peoples opinions on them.

1. Training power i.e hold small holds means you can recover on smaller holds since you find it easier to hold on to them?

2. Having better resistance/stamina means you can recover quicker between sessions?

[shark]

So would like to raise a couple of questions to have peoples opinions on them.

1. Training power i.e hold small holds means you can recover on smaller holds since you find it easier to hold on to them?

2. Having better resistance/stamina means you can recover quicker between sessions?

The categories aren't set in stone but my view is that holding small holds is strength (power involves explosive movement). In principle if you are strong on small holds you might have the capacity to recover on small holds. However, if your maximal strength is principally based on neural strength you might blow most of your strength in the single hang and struggle to hold, let alone recover, on subsequent small holds.

Resistance is resistance to fatigue on a sustained route. Stamina is the ability to recover at rests en-route or recover between routes/pitches on a climbing day.

These articles by Serpico provide an excellent insight into the physiological processes at work and is a useful aide memoire to make sense of the categories people use (and misuse)

Principles of traing
Strength and power
How we get stronger
Endurance Part1
Endurance Part2

     

[haydn jones]

Excellent post and excellent reading material thanking you greatly!