[Nibile]

 
Still taller than me!

[abarro81]

midget

[Stu Littlefair]

Giant

[a dense loner]

I remember seeing stu at the tor with alex in the middle of winter, they both had big trench coats on n were checking out the finishing moves on hooligan from the ground. I thought this looked a bit odd. Then came an agonising yelp n stu fell to the ground looking like he'd been pole-axed, turned out he'd been on ru's shoulders n his little legs just couldn't take anymore

[Stu Littlefair]

I've lost weight since then.

[Nibile]

I remember seeing stu at the tor with alex in the middle of winter, they both had big trench coats on n were checking out the finishing moves on hooligan from the ground. I thought this looked a bit odd. Then came an agonising yelp n stu fell to the ground looking like he'd been pole-axed, turned out he'd been on ru's shoulders n his little legs just couldn't take anymore

A Surrealistic image. Epic.

[a dense loner]

Currently working in a ships hull, all over the steelwork is marked up "back 2". This just goes to show u never know when this kind of strength is needed. Personally I'd ave marked them up as "wide grip pinches" but what do I know

[Dexter]

these days it all about the devil hang

[lukeinaz]

Resurrecting this old topic as there are some relevant posts on here and hoping for some more to add to it.

A bit of background: My back 2 progression is steady - slow but steady. As Robsons mentioned above, it all seemed so easy in the beginning; then the tweaks started so I slowed down the progression. I worked some assisted hangs, then worked through some unassisted hangs which is where I am now, looking to move on to repeaters.

My reason for posting: The tweaks I get when hanging the back 2 are in my middle finger. The position of the fingers seems to play a huge role in this. I hang the back 2 and have to keep my middle finger up to the first joint (proximal phalange) in line with the ring finger to avoid tweakage. If I move the middle finger towards the palm (like making a fist) I get ouchies in the middle finger. Just something I noticed and not particularly a problem, just interested to know if anyone else has come across this. Something similar was mentioned above by thesiger.

I assume beasts out there hang the back 2 without a care about the position of the rest of the fingers?

I have been working the back two with really great progress after reading some of the posts here.  Some great info.  Today I was working the back two on the 2nd biggest pockets and felt a pop.  Felt like a knuckle cracking and there was no pain.  Now I am noticing that with my other fingers curled up and the ring finger isolated there is much pain and weakness.  Everything seems to be fine when all the other fingers are lined up.  Slopers and four finger feel fine . Probably time for a break..  I might as well learn how to hang the 45s now.

[jmews]

Does anyone else have a massively pronounced difference in length between their pinkie and ring finger?


 My middle finger is longest, followed by my ring finger at about 5mm shorter, and my index at about 20mm shorter than middle. My pinkie is a massive 40mm shorter than my middle, and so 35mm shorter than my ring. When I try and get back two on, it is basically a mono ring crimp with some light support from the pinkie.

[Kingy]

I'm the same, I will never be able to do back 2 training, my pinkie is so much shorter than my ring finger, about 3cm. Im not bothered tho, I dont see many boulder problems that need this grip configuration. I just concentrate on overall crimp strength instead

[TobyD]

Does anyone else have a massively pronounced difference in length between their pinkie and ring finger?

fairly... I'd guess 2cms or just over. The 'specific' back 2 pockets on a BM are fine though, as aren't they deeper where your ring finger sits for exactly this reason?

re the comments earlier in the thread about forearm pain being fine when back 2 hanging. Personally, I'd bin in and do slopers , or core, or have a cup of tea if i got sharp forearm pain on any 2 finger pocket configuration. A good ache MIGHT be ok doing back 2 repeaters, but real pain with anything close to a max hang is probably best to be avoided?

[SA Chris]

My pinkie is a good 3 cm shorter than ring finger, ends just behind the first (or is it last?) knuckle on my ring finger. I thought this was pretty much standard?

[Monolith]

I'm just over 3cm difference too but found through trial and error a little technique when back twoing the shallow pockets or crimps that makes it comfortable.

It could be perhaps due to my incestual Wirral hands that this helped but I found that if you wrap your thumb over your first two that are dangling in space whilst starting out with the grip, it seems to stablise the hand as a whole. After a session or two of doing this, I found I could half crimp without this thumb wrap very comfortably. Bizzarely (or perhaps not), I noticed at first that half crimped on the small pockets felt a lot less strained than in the deep pockets. Obviously this is just a reflection of the strength of one grip position over another but they soon seemed to even out.

[Pebblespanker]

My pinkie is a good 3 cm shorter than ring finger, ends just behind the first (or is it last?) knuckle on my ring finger. I thought this was pretty much standard?

Measured mine after thinking the other posters must have mutant ring and pinkies; mine 'looked' about 15mm tops - then I apply some science (plastic ruler) and find I'm around 25mm ... are there somatype equivalents for hands?? I seem to remember reading there are certain classic shapes; 'spade like' was one?? Rather than look at simple length differences perhaps it might be better to consider pinkie length as percentage of ring length or some such ratio rather than actual lengths, then any statistical outliers (mutants) will be more apparent? just a thought

I also find Back 2 hard and have to be very careful about the passive finger positions for it to be anywhere approaching comfortable - but since I'm a punter I'm just weak hence I am beasting Back 3 to get a good strength base before returning to including some more regular Back 2 in the new year

[a dense loner]

Are u lot really posting that your little fingers arent as long as your other fingers? When did you realise this? The give away for me was when my mum told me the name for them n I checked them against my other fingers in amazement

[SA Chris]

You struggling to follow the discussion Dense? Read it again and have another go at it. In primary school they call this Comprehension.

[a dense loner]

The six posts before mine all have finger lengths in them in mm. In my primary school we called this bollocks

[Pebblespanker]

The six posts before mine all have finger lengths in them in mm. In my primary school we called this bollocks

In my school we called those type of measurements 'the difference between finger lengths' 

it may be bollocks Dense but it was more interesting than working on the Networks OLA document I am currently writing

[quiffhanger]

Hmmm, thinking this could be good for me. Especially as I have a sore middle finger.

Do people drag or attempt to half-crimp the back 2? I can kinda hand the deep pockets dragging but I doubt I could half crimp them even if I took off 40kg.

-ross

[Monolith]

I think unless both your index and little finger were the same or of similar length, one would struggle to reach the pinkie onto the crimp to hang off of - i.e. half-crimp the way.

You'll be surprised perhaps at how rapidly you progress from back three on one hand, back two on the other to simply back two. I can honestly say from training the grip type in question by this process of isolation, I have experienced considerable finger strength gains.

[Pebblespanker]

Hmmm, thinking this could be good for me. Especially as I have a sore middle finger.

Do people drag or attempt to half-crimp the back 2? I can kinda hand the deep pockets dragging but I doubt I could half crimp them even if I took off 40kg.

-ross

Weak old punter version - OH/Drag in the deep 2F pockets on my Beasty1K, absolutely no chance of me crimping with them at the moment