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Intellect SS at Fairy Steps (Read 3260 times)

MB

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Intellect SS at Fairy Steps
February 01, 2006, 08:05:57 pm
Any clues?

Also does it finish at the break or up the wall? Dont fancy the idea of landing on the sawn off tree behind.

Nigel

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#1 Intellect SS at Fairy Steps
February 01, 2006, 10:12:25 pm
I haven't done it, but I have been close, and did do all the moves. Again my memory is hazy as it was ages ago, but a selection of small edges and the slopey edge at the crack's base are used to get a sort of sprag/fingerlock in the crack, which I ended up climbing front on, "opening elavator doors" style.

The problem I found was that it seems to be really really hard to get a sequence which leads into the "normal" stand-up (i.e. right hand laybacking L edge of crack, RF up on spike, stand up to break - its nails to spin round into facing this direction), so on the sit-start you end up doing the whole thing a totally different way.

Unless Greg has a better idea?  :idea:

GCW

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#2 Re: Intellect SS at Fairy Steps
April 26, 2011, 09:04:01 am
Any more on this?  I know there's a Gaskins approved sequence for the 7c, but which is it?

GCW

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#3 Re: Intellect SS at Fairy Steps
November 23, 2012, 02:56:46 pm
Bump?

Greg C

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#4 Re: Intellect SS at Fairy Steps
November 23, 2012, 03:06:24 pm
Essentially, hands in the crack all the way to the break. You can, if necessary, also use the small side pulls and edges (immediately) either side of the crack to get started. You've got to top out for the full tick too, this adds a bit.  It's only taken 6 years to get a reply to this thread, is that some kind of a record?  ;)

andy_e

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#5 Re: Intellect SS at Fairy Steps
November 23, 2012, 03:10:36 pm
Is Binks still up around those parts?

GCW

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#6 Re: Intellect SS at Fairy Steps
November 23, 2012, 03:45:51 pm
So basically avoid the crozzles way out left near the arete?

Thanks Greg, even if it took you so long.......   :boxing:

Greg C

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#7 Re: Intellect SS at Fairy Steps
November 23, 2012, 06:34:08 pm
So basically avoid the crozzles way out left near the arete?


Yes. To be honest, unless you are particularly tall, it's the obvious way to climb it.

GCW

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#8 Re: Intellect SS at Fairy Steps
November 24, 2012, 08:38:53 am
 :lol:

 

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