[Bubba]

I just tried to throw some paper across the room and into the bin - thought about it, aimed....and missed.

Nearly every time I throw a ball of paper at the bin, but think about the shot and aim really carefully; I miss.

But nearly every time I just throw at the bin without taking aim, just thinking  almost subconciously: "paper into bin"; it goes right in first try.

Have you ever just reeled off a boulder problem that you'd normally find hard, simply because you just got on and did it without thinking about the actual moves? I've only ever done it a few times in my life and always feel fantastic afterwards....

But, I guess my real question is - can anyone do this at will? I know that's a contradiction, how can you will something spontaneous? But you know what I mean, can anyone get into this frame of mind when they need to?

Is this what's known as "in the zone"? I suspect it's the same or similar thing.

</ramble>  :wink:

[Carnage]

I've had that feeling a few times and would expect most people have.

I reckon its what separates the World Class from the rest- The ability to turn this on at any given time.

[hongkongstuey]

from what i recall of my single days (somewhere in the dark distant past) - it was always the same with getting lucky

the minute you try, you're fucked and going home alone  :nopity:  but those nights out when you just didn't give a damn (well, thats another thread all together  :smokin:  ........)

[J.P]

Come to think of an ad with Mr. Moon some years ago. Think it was for Boreal and the capture was something like:
"The consciousness of self is the greatest hinderance to the proper excecution of all physical activities."
  -Bruce Lee

Would be great to know how to turn off that self conscious button  :?

[Bonjoy]

There's nothing worse than thinking 'oh shit i might get it next go' for ruining an attempt. The ability to disengage brain on a climb does seem to be an elusive and potent skill.

[Pantontino]

On tricky, deadpoint style problems I have to blank my mind - a kind of, neither deny, or accept attitude. In practice this is very hard to maintain, as a slight creep on a handhold or foothold can shatter the detachment of the feeling. I guess that's why it is so addictive, if it was an easy state to achieve, we would soon get bored.

On power stamina problems I try to stay calm initially, then channel a rush of aggression into the crux/closing section of the link. This definately works, but it can be very emotionally (not to mention physically) draining if you are repeatedly failing close to the end/top.

On a hard (for me) problem, I do find it difficult to keep a lid on the adrenaline when new ground is reached for the first time, my eyes start to blur and suddenly a 5c move can be the living end! That said, as long as I keep blindly slapping it tends to work out in the end.

[Fiend]

My friend and I know this very well, and it makes a fair bit of sense...

The first attempt on a problem, you don't think or plan specifically, you just climb, you follow the rock as it dictates your movement, and often do very well, perhaps not getting it, or not getting it in good style as the sequences are ad hoc, but still doing well.

The next attempts are much worse, you learn from the "mistakes" of the first attempt, and with that knowledge plan more specifically. The movement becomes more precise and efficient, but more rigid and ponderous, as the awareness and focus impedes your fluidity.

As you have more attempts, they'll become better again. Familiarity will allow the moves to flow, and the planning will be reduced - back to "feeling" the problem more. And eventually the sucessful ascent will be very smooth, but it will have taken time to get there.

Basically the Bruce Lee quote is pretty fair in this case  :wink:

[curly ben]

Do you think people who train mega hard- properly work at their climbing ie break moves down etc get this feeling or can tap into it..???? People like Fred Nicole Sharma etc seem to use this terminology all the time eg 'flow', 'begineeres mind' and stuff but then on the other hand you got someone like Malcom Smith who seems to be utterly 'trained ' and concentrated on moves almost making it like maths or the matrix (and i dont meen boring, just properly broken down in to numbers and angles)

[a dense loner]

Do you think people who train mega hard- properly work at their climbing

i think you've answered your own question there ben

[curly ben]

nope got my grammar wrong!

[a dense loner]

i personally feel that too many people try to read too much into climbing. ie. dark art rather than science. more often than not the hardest probs r done by those who train smartest, whether they regard it as training or not. if you read mags etc it would seem that everything is done in a state of zen, this just appeals to the outdoor mentality n sells well.