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Bradley Edge Bouldering in the new guide (Read 5090 times)

leeroy

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Bradley Edge Bouldering in the new guide
December 03, 2011, 11:00:13 pm
Noticed the brilliant looking "swingers party" in the guide a while ago and have been meaning to get down there.

Has anyone been within the last year or so? or is it going to be a big cleaning operation?

Thanks in advance.

205Chris

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#1 Re: Bradley Edge Bouldering in the new guide
December 04, 2011, 09:02:12 am
I wandered past this a few weeks ago after visiting Turning Stone edge. It looked pretty green and had no chalk on it. Unless someone's tried it since then I imagine you'll need to do some cleaning.

tallsop

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#2 Re: Bradley Edge Bouldering in the new guide
December 04, 2011, 02:17:47 pm
I was trying a different version of this before the guide came out, rather than starting on the right i was starting it in the back on the obvious jug, then with a left heeltoe reaching out with my right hand to the lip, moving up until i was very stretched out (and im 6ft5!!) left hand was on the vague rib feature, then dynoing for the good crimp on the left of the lip. -- VERY MORPHO!!

It shouldnt take too much cleaning, and the finish isnt that hard for 7a imo, you could probably do it with a little dirt on it! Go for it!

I did some problems on the low roofs above 'secret lemonade drinker' which were pretty fun too.

Also, try to go during the week when that nobhead isnt around to threaten you.  :thumbsup:

Andy B

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#3 Re: Bradley Edge Bouldering in the new guide
December 04, 2011, 05:12:52 pm
I was trying a different version of this before the guide came out, rather than starting on the right i was starting it in the back on the obvious jug, then with a left heeltoe reaching out with my right hand to the lip, moving up until i was very stretched out (and im 6ft5!!) left hand was on the vague rib feature, then dynoing for the good crimp on the left of the lip. -- VERY MORPHO!!

It shouldnt take too much cleaning, and the finish isnt that hard for 7a imo, you could probably do it with a little dirt on it! Go for it!

Swingers Party starts at the back, not on the right. You reach out to the lip, then work left a little bit using the lip and the rib, and pop to the good holds on the "7a" and hold a swing (hence the name) then straight up to finish. It sounds similar to what you where trying, but bringing your feet out earlier, rather than getting too spanned? It was done whilst checking for the guide, so it shouldn't really have got dirty again yet. Could it not have been green just due to being damp, as opposed to dirty?

leeroy

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#4 Re: Bradley Edge Bouldering in the new guide
December 04, 2011, 06:06:12 pm
is holding the swing at the lip the crux andy?

will probably go and look at it this week.

Andy B

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#5 Re: Bradley Edge Bouldering in the new guide
December 04, 2011, 06:12:26 pm
Probably, although getting there isn't totally easy either. I'd give you more beta, but you wouldn't listen to me about using that intermediate on Flatworld Left Hand.  ;)

leeroy

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#6 Re: Bradley Edge Bouldering in the new guide
December 04, 2011, 06:18:17 pm
It was programmed in. Must have three points of contact at all times. Nothing i could do... ;D

tallsop

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#7 Re: Bradley Edge Bouldering in the new guide
December 04, 2011, 08:27:19 pm
oh, ok, fair doos, sounds like you just found a better sequence to what i was trying! Nice one, it was an obvious problem, a very good line, i was suprised it went unclimbed for so long! Good effort!

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#8 Re: Bradley Edge Bouldering in the new guide
December 05, 2011, 06:53:49 am
I was happy with the increase of traffic, keeping tracks more open and problems a bit cleaner, following the publication of the Froggatt guide. There are no real access issues if you follow the approach in the guide but the guy opposite doesn't seem to care. If challenged follow the usual access advice :dont be confrontational and report on the BMC website. Some problems on the far left (south) were affected by a tree which fell down.

leeroy

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#9 Re: Bradley Edge Bouldering in the new guide
December 05, 2011, 07:05:46 pm
I was happy with the increase of traffic, keeping tracks more open and problems a bit cleaner, following the publication of the Froggatt guide. There are no real access issues if you follow the approach in the guide but the guy opposite doesn't seem to care. If challenged follow the usual access advice :dont be confrontational and report on the BMC website. Some problems on the far left (south) were affected by a tree which fell down.

Yeh will do, ill keep a low profile anyway.


I did some problems on the low roofs above 'secret lemonade drinker' which were pretty fun too.
 

Yeh, will check out "il pleut" tom. Looked a good one if its dry.

tallsop

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I put some topos on ukc to show where the other lines go, i think there was some confusion.

As i said on ukc, you will probs find them a bit soft for the grade, as i did them in the wet, I tried il pleut in the dry and it felt much easier. on ill pleut, my mate managed to flash it in his (5.10) trainers but he mantled through ALL the short slappy moves that I did. Probs more like 6b that way.

the other two probs were kinda pants but entertained  me on a wet day.

leeroy

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chances of this and turningstone being dry tomorrow?

leeroy

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Did Swingers Party today and its without doubt the best roof problem ive done so far in the peak. it didnt need much cleaning and is in prime condition now. the top out was slightly wet but the holds are so big it doesnt matter, i'll put a video on soon. The crux was defiantly holding the swing and trying not to dab on the opposing wall when you swing wildly.

Turning Stone also all dry apart from cherubs bit which was a bit damp. gibbon swing, river of life etc all dry.
« Last Edit: December 28, 2011, 05:22:03 pm by leeroy »

cofe

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#13 Bradley Edge Bouldering in the new guide
December 28, 2011, 06:21:47 pm
Nice one. I'd not heard of anyone doing it since me and Banksy.

leeroy

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Nice one. I'd not heard of anyone doing it since me and Banksy.

3rd ascent would be nice but i doubt it. shame if it is aswell as its such a quality problem that should get far more ascents, if it was on a popular crag it would be peak classic for sure.

cofe

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#15 Bradley Edge Bouldering in the new guide
December 28, 2011, 07:47:31 pm
You're not wrong. It's one of the best in the Peak. Ace moves. Good effort.

 

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