[nik at work]

Does anybody know what's happened to the finger jug on Metal Mickey at Kilnsey? It's the good hold by the second bolt (at about half height of the hard bit before joining Metal Guru), but it isn't there any more. I had a look round on the ground but couldn't see any appropriate finger jug-esque pieces of rock so dunno where it's gone. I'd quite like to do the route, it's climbable in it's current state but quite a bit harder, but I don't want to spend lots of time working a new sequence on this section if the hold is sitting in someones car in readiness for gluing back on the next trip to Kilnsey.
In it's current state I suspect it would be worth bumping up to 8b+
If anybody knows about the location of the hold and any plans for re-attachment please share the knowledge.
Cheers

[nik at work]

Nobody?
Oh well, I guess I'll just assume that it's lost forever then...

[robertostallioni]

Just find "it" and stick "it" back on.

[nik at work]

I'm happy for the hold to stay off, I'd certainly prefer that to sticking some random bit od stone on to just get pulled off again. Equally if someone has the hold and is planning on reattaching it that's all fine and dandy by me, I'd just rather know before investing time and effort in working a move which will cease to exist in a week or two when the hold is re-attached.

[robertostallioni]

Oh, I see. Mental Nikky. 8b+

[tim palmer]

The hold is in safe hands, I think the plan is to glue it back on.

[nik at work]

Splendid. If you have any notions on the timescale for this gluing, or could let us (me) know when it's been reattached I'd be most grateful. Toodle-pip...

[Pantontino]

I bolted this line up back in the early 90s. I remember one crucial (well, at least to me) hold breaking into a few pieces - I glued the bits back on with a load of resin and held it in place with tape while it went off. Has this fallen off? I think there might have been another flake I backed up too?

[nik at work]

I think a couple of things have broken off. Certainly after Vickers did the FA something fell off (as noted in Rockfax guide) then it was reclimbed at the same grade but a bit harder. Now that another hold has fallen off I'd say it would warrant an upgrade in it's current state. From what I've heard (third-hand, fourth-hand and beyond...) the two holds that have come off were both in similar-ish places. The first hold that came off was really rather good, leaving the second hold which was rather reasonable. Now this has come off leaving...   well not very much really.
Anyway any updates on the reattachment process would be gratefully received.

I think it's a nice line with good climbing, but can understand how it wouldn't appeal to everyone.

[Adam Lincoln]

Now that another hold has fallen off I'd say it would warrant an upgrade in it's current state.

I haven't done it, but it feels easier than say, Full tilt, albeit a bit more compact!  Also, compared to the ripper and other 'solid' 8b's its certainly not a grade harder than those.

[nik at work]

Have you been on it since the most recent hold loss? You certainly have more knowledge of this grade than me so I'd happily defer to your judgement. To me it certainly seems a fair bit harder now than it was a few weeks ago.

[Adam Lincoln]

Have you been on it since the most recent hold loss?

No, but if it gets glued back on, this won't matter. It is quite reachy though, specially the top crux. Feels a hell of a lot easier for someone my height. You can have 8b+ Nik. Hell, you can have 8c 

[nik at work]

Ah, yes I'd agree with 8b if the hold gets glued back on. Until that happens I'll stand by my guesstimate of 8b+ (I'll take your offer of 8c though )

[Nike Air]

I found it bottom end 8b, once used a different foot hold on the crux it went fine. I drove past today so popped in for gander and it does not look that much harder now. If you compare it to things like the Brute and full tilt (the shorties righthand variant), it is not harder than those. 8bplus is nails, think dalliance/cry freedom/power ranger. I am I right Simon that the original line aimed followed the bolts? When I did it and also the earl, we climbed more left of the bolts due to hold loss.....

[Pantontino]

Am I right Simon that the original line followed the bolts? When I did it and also the earl, we climbed more left of the bolts due to hold loss.....

My memory - admittedly, pretty faded after such a long time - is that the bolts were on my left. I'm guessing that the holds I glued/backed up subsequently fell off. I was out of my depth really, I could just about do the moves individually, but piecing it together was another matter. After about 3 sessions I sacked it off.