[Eddies]

Will someone be kind enough to list all sequences for me please?
Including lanky streak of piss method!

[dave]

Kudos "easy way" - left hand up to sidepull ear thing, either lefr or right root up to jug rail, RH to crap broken sidepull thing, get into an egyptian, LH to finishing flake. I think this is harder than the either of the hard way sequences.

Kudos "hard way" - one sequence is to get the good ear thing as a gason with RH, rock big onto left toe in the jug rail, go to finishing flake with LH via various intermediate edges. Another sequence is to get gaston again and put RF in a heel-toe at the right end of jug rail, again go to finishing flake with LH via various intermediate edges.

Kudos "original way" - eliminates the jug rail. start LH in slot, RH gaston, right foot polished mess, left foot rock up onto another poloshed mess, throw for flake. 7c.

I'd go with either of the hard way methods.

[Eddies]

Cheers. Ive been trying: Matched on jug L/H to slot out right then R/H to semi-decent flake then hoik left foot up and rock-over/flail for final flake. Im finding getting my left foot up to be a right mare.... I will persist

[Jaspersharpe]

It's just a flexibility thing. You might be better using the right heel in jug method if you're struggling to get your left foot up.

[dave]

best thing to do to get LF up on jug is literally to jump up - don't try and walk your feet up, just jump it up. makes the move in gneral easier as it lifts your body too. very soft boots help to claw on the jug.

[Richie Crouch]

I did it the 'easy way' not long ago and it took at least 20 minutes of bemusement and felt very stiff at 7a+! 

I used the sequence that you described Dave but didn't think to use an egyptian, just locked the RH broken thing and rocked on my left foot, felt hard!

[dave]

the easy way is nails. its about as hard if not harder than the press, KudosHardWay, Press, Kudos Traverse etc etc.

[Jaspersharpe]

 

I tried "Easy Way" a few times and got nowhere. Did "Hard Way" in a couple of goes and then the SS and did the original next session. Still haven't done "Easy Way" and don't feel I'm missing out. It's nails, has never been 7A+ and is not pleasant imo. Didn't it used to be considered the easy way cos the RH sidepull was much better before it broke?

[dave]

yeah I think that sidepull has had shit fall off it probably more than once. Might actually be one of those thats actually easier for the short or something. they're welcome to it.

[abarro81]

I doubt that.. At 6ft 2 I can usually do the easy way in a couple of goes but haven't got close to the hard way, though I've got really put enough time into it. I found putting my left foot up was fine but then I just got stuck

[Andy B]

Nice try Dave.

[dobbin]

Theres a way of holding the right hand sidepull on the 'easy' way that makes it ok. Think you sort of cock your wrist over at a funny angle, so your wrist is quite up as memory serves. I actually find it allright, but I'm widely thought of as quite strange.

[Eddies]

I still havent done this bloody problem! Tho I am very close now, Im getting up to the boken flake out right every time now using R/Heel method but im struggling to sort my feet out and bust out left.

Ive seen the Youtube vid of 'Deb on Kudos' and although I find it desperate to free my R/Hell and get my left up I feel this maybe my only option....Unless one of you have any better beta suited to lank-meisters such as myself!?

[Stubbs]

I do it exactly like that video, but I look like I'm struggling a lot more...

[jimmykay]

Deb makes that look so easy. She was on it again last time I was there and I couldn't quite believe how easy she made it look. My friend who has pretty gangly legs prefers to just go off the polished sloper for the original method. Although he didn't manage it. I have a video of me doing it somewhere, I'll try and find it and post it.

I'm not sure whether you'll be able to see it or not because it's on facebook, but here's the link http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=442306584556#&comments&set=t.505443984&type=1

[tomtom]

I do it exactly like that video, but I look like I'm struggling a lot more...

I try and do it that way, but only get 30% of the way up, and look like I'm struggling even more than Stubbs. I then curl up on my mat and gibber.

[Eddies]

Thanks guys

[Eddies]

Crushed Kudos tonight YYFY 

All came good in the end after id worked out some slick foot beta:
After id rocked over on R/heel to the broken flake I brought L/foot onto the jug where your R/hand starts the prob, and put my R/foot onto the small but posative spike out right, that bought me in balance left of the hand holds and it was a simple case of casualy snatching up to the finishing flake...BOOM

Thanks for your beta and ideas peeps

[jimmykay]

Get in! 

[T_B]

Nice work. Kudos is the hardest 7b I think I've ever done. Desperate if you're tall getting dem feet up.

[Jaspersharpe]

Nice one!

[dobbin]

You should think about doing with a rope on, cos thats the hardest bit of the route which is a classic Peak 8a.

From the flake you have an easy bit to a rest at the break, then a tricky but not too bad bit crossing the bulge at the top. 8a - in the bag!

[abarro81]

From the flake you have an easy bit to a rest at the break, then a tricky but not too bad bit crossing the bulge at the top. 8a - in the bag!

Except the 'easy bit to the break' is actually quite hard, certainly harder than the bit through the top bulge IMO. I remember thinking it added a grade to the boulder.

[Eddies]

That was one of the main reasons for me doing Kudos 

HFC will prob have to wait untill next year now tho as ive just lost my wing-man, whos off to observe bird behaviours in potential wind-farm sites in Northumberland!! 

[mini]

..... off to observe bird behaviours in potential wind-farm sites in Northumberland!!

I want that job!!!

Props Eddies!!!