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That List Again... (Read 3856 times)

r-man

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That List Again...
October 21, 2011, 12:52:19 am
Some of you may remember the ukb list of Uk first ascents at each grade. I was reminded of it by the history section of the yorkshire bouldering guide. Quite a lot of the grades have now settled, such as Monoblock at 7C+. So, in a moment of weakness, I've revised the list and stuck it on the ukb wiki, along with links to Planetfear's old bouldering records page, and the Udini list (which is still being updated).

A list of the first ascents of non-eliminate problems at each grade. See wiki link for traverses.

Some problems were originally the starts to routes, but the nature of bouldering has evolved over the years and this list represents the progression of climbing standards on what we currently call boulder problems.

UK - http://ukbouldering.com/wiki/index.php/UK_Bouldering_First_At_Each_Grade

? - The Crack pictured in the Yorkshire Grit Guide? - Simon's Seat - ? - 1895
6A - Spider Wall - Ilkley - ? - 1930's?
6A - Crease Direct - Crookrise - Allen Austin - 1957 (beats Crucifix Arete by a year and The Villain by two)
6A+ - Teaspoon Variation - Almscliff - Arthur Dolphin - 1948
6A+ - Wall of Horrors Direct Start - Almscliff - Joe Brown (onsight) - 1950s?
6B - Janker's Groove Direct - Froggatt - Don Whillans - 1948?
6B+ - ?
6C - Syretts roof - Almscliff - John Syrett - early 1972 (beats Horror Arete by two years)
6C+ - Tom's Original - Stoney Middleton - Tom Proctor ? - 1960s? (given 7A, but generally regarded as a bit soft.)
7A - Barleymow - Almscliff - Tony Barley - 1966
7A+ - Ron's Crack - Crookrise - Ron Fawcett - 1974 (beats Red Baron and Desert Island Arete by two years)
7B? - Jerry's Arete - Bridestones - Jerry Peel - 1970s? (grade reflects original state - it used to have better footholds)
7B - Bald Pate Superdirect - Ilkley - Andy Brown - 1980
7B+ - Lay-By Arete - Slipstones - Paul Ingham - 1983 (beats West Side Story by two years)
7C - Cental Wall Direct - Dib Scar - Rob Gawthorpe - 1982 (the start to a route, not generally considered a boulder problem, though it is probably possible as such.)
7C - Sole Power - Froggatt - Jerry Moffatt - 1983
7C+ - Haston Problem - The Breck - Stevie Haston - 1979
7C+ - Monoblock - Pex Hill - Joe Healy - early 80s
8A - Careless Torque - Stanage - Ron Fawcett - 1987
8A+ - ?
8B - Isla de Enchanta - Trowbarrow - John Gaskins - 1999
8B+ - Kaizen - Woodwell - John Gaskins - 2001
8C - Walk Away ss - Fairysteps - John Gaskins - 2002

WORLD - http://ukbouldering.com/wiki/index.php/World_Bouldering_First_At_Each_Grade

1934 - 5+ - La Fissure des Alpinistes - Fontainebleau - Pierre Allain
1934 - 5+/6A - Angle Allain - Fontainebleau - Pierre Allain
1946 - 6A - La Marie Rose - Fontainebleau - Rene Ferlet
1950 - 6B - La Stalingrade - Fontainebleau - Paul Jouy
1950 - 6C/6C+ - La Carre d’As - Fontainebleau - Paul Jouy
1953 - 7A - Le Joker - Fontainebleau - Robert Paragot
???? - 7A+ - ?
1958 - 7B - Gill Right Problem - Tetons - John Gill
1959 - 7C - Gill Dynamic Route - Tetons - John Gill
1978 - 7C+ - The Grove - Colorado - John Gill (beats the Haston Problem in the UK by one year)
1877 - 8A - Meathook - Colorado - Jim Holloway (holds may have altered)
1975 - 8A+ - Trice - Colorado - Jim Hollaway (subsequent repeats have finished via the rail out right, rather than straight up as per the original finish)
1977 - 8B - Slapshot - Colorado - Jim Holloway (allegedly holds have since broken and a key hold was glued back upside down)
1997 - 8B+ - Nanuk - Berchtesgaden - Klem Loskot (Fred Nicole's Radja, climbed in 1996, is now considered 8B, due to easier beta)
2000 - 8B+ - Dreamtime - Cresciano - Fred Nicole (The world's first 8C is now considered 8B+ - some believe it has been chipped, others believe it was always 8B+)
2002 - 8C - Walk Away ss - Fairysteps - John Gaskins (beats Monkey Wedding by a year)
2002 - 8C - Gossip - Frankejura - Markus Bock
« Last Edit: October 21, 2011, 01:17:39 am by r-man »

saltbeef

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#1 Re: That List Again...
October 21, 2011, 09:56:17 am
uk 8a+ superman? jerry not sure when

Wood FT

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#2 Re: That List Again...
October 21, 2011, 10:49:13 am
l'abbatoir, Michel  Libert 1960 for 7a+? Depends where you look maybe

r-man

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#3 Re: That List Again...
October 21, 2011, 11:10:49 am
uk 8a+ superman? jerry not sure when

1988 - Was vetoed last time because it was an eliminate. Perhaps we can include it if we call it a tight line?

l'abbatoir, Michel  Libert 1960 for 7a+? Depends where you look maybe

Bleau.info says "first 7A of Bleau" so I'll put that in for now, though I'd be surprised if John Gill hadn't done anything at this grade, since he was at 7B a couple of years earlier.

chillax

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#4 Re: That List Again...
October 21, 2011, 11:26:47 am
1877 - 8A - Meathook - Colorado - Jim Holloway (holds may have altered)

Jim Holloways been at it a while....

Pebblespanker

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#5 Re: That List Again...
October 21, 2011, 01:33:23 pm
Just wondered where that nails Dog's Dinner butress traverse fitted in if at all??

duncan

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#6 Re: That List Again...
October 21, 2011, 08:39:43 pm
Excellent geekery.


6C+ - Tom's Original - Stoney Middleton - Tom Proctor ? - 1960s?

Pantonio seems to think it was a product of the late 70s.  A misprint?

Tom didn't really get into his stride until the late 60s so I doubt if it was done before Barleymow (1966).

Doylo

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#7 Re: That List Again...
October 21, 2011, 08:43:27 pm
Not including Superman is silly

 

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