[sidewinder]

Currently in Ailefroide where the weather has been distinctly mixed ie. wet considering running away to somewhere where the weather is better, have a car trad and sport gear and a bouldering mat and are willing to drive up to 4 hours. Current favourite options are staying here and hoping it improves or driving down to marseille/callaques(sp?) which looks ok in a random french guide. My internet access is via a Kindle which is fine for here but less good for finding out things such as is callaques any good and where do you camp? any help or alternative suggestions will be gratefully received.
Thanks in advance!

[Paul B]

Calanques gets pretty hot and its a bit of an odd ball.

There are some very steep (juggy) sport climbs, and quite a lot of easy (4-6's) mixed/trad it seems above this they haven't really developed much (trad) as most of the lines followed weaknesses etc. and there are vast amounts of untouched (seaward facing) rock. Its quite polished in places.

You can buy the guide in various tabacs in Le Ciotat etc. Car crime can be an issue in the main parking areas, especially for foreign vehicles. Rockfax also cover it in the Cote D'Azur guide.

Could you make it to Ablon on four hours? Its higher up and everything I've heard makes it sound fantastic. Failing that people arrived at Ceuse after leaving Ailefroide.

[sidewinder]

Thanks for the info. Ablon certainly looks like another possibility, it si aso in th right direction for going home I take it again that guides are available locally, where do you camp? Being up high might not be an issue at the moment it i only about 12 degrees here and I think only around 25 near Marselles. I had ruled out Ceuse because I was guessing the weather would be similar ad th grade range too high, likewise (in terms of grades) Buoux. Am realisticaly after mid 6s to low 7s are either of these venues worth it?

[richieb]

Chateauvert could be an option. Faces south and low down so could also be hot.
Some great 6's and low 7's there from memory.
Or maybe Orpierre?

[Paul B]

I've not been to Ablon but from what I hear it'd be perfect.

Ceuse will be fine too and yes there's plenty in the 6's and 7's although its best throughout the 7's (IMO).

Cheateuvert and Orpierre will be hot but the latter isn't a bad option for a day trip or two away from Ceuse.

[sidewinder]

Thanks for all the help, stuck it out in the end and the weather improved, only lost one full day in two weeks so no complaints!