[Ged]

Trying to decide what to do for the summer holidays, and I think we've settled on Northern Spain, taking in some Pyrenees (Cavallers?) then Picos and Basque areas.  After quality sport climbing, and some big routes up on El Naranja de Bulnes and any others.

Anybody got any knowledge, recomendations, or anything else about these spots?

Much appreciated

Ged

[SA Chris]

The sandstone bouldering at Santa Gadea in the newest Climber looks great.

[andy popp]

Go to the Picos. Its brilliant. I spent the whole of august there many years ago. We had stable but very hot weather (exceptionally so) throughout - but I know others who have been thwarted around that time by regular afternoon storms that made climbing the Naranja difficult.

On the Naranja Murciana 78 (7aish/A0 or 7c+/8a) is brilliant. Didn't do Rabaddo Navarro (sp?) which is meant to be the classic. Amistad el con Diablo (6c?) on the shorter East face is also excellent. Valley cragging was underdeveloped then but suspect there must be loads now. We stayed with a friend who owns a hotel in Poo de Cabarales on the north side of the range. He's still there and runs a walking guide thing.

We also went sport climbing at Quiros near Oviedo - lovely quiet spot, probably pretty old school. Again I suspect the potential is enormous now.

Again, just go.

[ali k]

Copycat! Me and my lass are doing the same trip in July/August from Catalunya through the Pyrenees across to Picos and then getting a ferry from Santander - Portsmouth, so will no doubt bump into you at some point! Will be following this thread for some recommendations, especially in the Picos and Basque area.

Presumably you know about the usual summer sport stuff in the Pyrenees / pre-Pyrenees (Tres Ponts, Rodellar, Bielsa etc?).

I haven't done that much in the Pyrenees but Cavallers area is very good for single and multi-pitch granite sport and full/partial trad plus some decent looking bouldering. All accessible from the parking at the dam (good spot for a van if you're in one?). Get the 'Lleida climbs' guide for a small selection or the 'Roca Caliente en los Pirineos Vol II' guide if you're planning to stay longer. Stuff on the 4th Agulla de Comalestorres in Cavallers is very good. I've just recently got the 'Roca Caliente Vol III' guide which covers the other side of the Aiguestortes NP (Amitges etc) so am planning to explore that area this summer.

  (just cos i can!)

[Oldmanmatt]

HHmm, one word.............. LLIEDA...
 

[tomtom]

On rest days (if you're near) then San Sebastian is a lovely town - and you have to try the Pinxo's... best way of eating out ever...

[Stu Littlefair]

Ali is right; you should check out Bielsa on the way. The basque region is only an average venue in summer. The best crags by far are Onate, Baltzola and Extauri. Extauri is a winter crag, so forget about that. Sector Korea at Onate is great for 7c up, and shady. Baltzola again is best for 7c up. Although its a massive cave it can be a bad choice on hot days as it's often humid in summer. I would spend a couple of days in Onate, and then check out the cave and see what condition it's in. If it's gopping and humid, move onto the picos.

Guides for both can be bought from the desnivel site...

[abarro81]

What time of year would you advise for Baltzola Stu?

[account_inactive]

Go to the Picos. Its brilliant. I spent the whole of august there many years ago. We had stable but very hot weather (exceptionally so) throughout - but I know others who have been thwarted around that time by regular afternoon storms that made climbing the Naranja difficult.

On the Naranja Murciana 78 (7aish/A0 or 7c+/8a) is brilliant. Didn't do Rabaddo Navarro (sp?) which is meant to be the classic. Amistad el con Diablo (6c?) on the shorter East face is also excellent. Valley cragging was underdeveloped then but suspect there must be loads now. We stayed with a friend who owns a hotel in Poo de Cabarales on the north side of the range. He's still there and runs a walking guide thing.

We also went sport climbing at Quiros near Oviedo - lovely quiet spot, probably pretty old school. Again I suspect the potential is enormous now.

Again, just go.

I've done the Rabaddo Navarro (sp?) with a one legged Spaniard.  It is indeed awesome.  I remember that shot of you Andy in an old On The Shelf wearing Ninja's, tights and a beret (I think).  Inspiring stuff!

[Stu Littlefair]

What time of year would you advise for Baltzola Stu?

I would go in September. Most likely to be dry then and fewer sweaty summer days. October would also be good, but the campsites all close at the end of September, so accommodation gets expensive.