[aly]

Has anyone got any good beta for a weakling on how to do the move onto the jug on the lip about 2/3's of the way along this?  I can match the two holds on the lip (the crimp and the base of the crack) with my heel still in the flake near the start but can't reach the jug with it still in.  I was hoping somebody had some funky heel/toe/bathang knowledge of how to do the move without cranking like a moose.  I've seen a couple of vids online but can't see anything that I think will work and it's the only move I can't do on it (grrrr).


If I was as strong as this climber I'd be over the moon, but can't see me doing it this way (1:08)!


Trying this way I can't stay on with my RF on that hold (at 0:28) once it comes out of the jug.

Has anyone as weak as me done it that can shed some light?  Brilliant problem though, I'm sure it will be worth it in the end...

[dave]

before you go for the jug you'll probably need to bring your RF off the jug flake and into another heeltoe a bit closer to you, you can do this by toehooking with the other foot to release the RF.

[Paul B]

There are loads of heels and toes available.

Personally I opt for a right heel in close and a left toe under the roof somewhere obvious. I take the diagonal hold and then in this position cross through. I think the approved beta is to use another heel for your left and not the toe.

[Bonjoy]

From RH crimping top bit of the jug/flake slap LH to flat sidepull/undercut out left, put right heel on flake, RH to the pocket hold, left heel to rib on left, LH to base of crack, RF to a fairly unobvious horizontal heel-toe on a slopey rail thing left of the flake where the roof starts, LF low toehook on an undercut/flake (often tickmarked), flick over to edge with RH, LH to Jug.

[cofe]

with right hand on crimp, left hand underneath a bit still, walk your feet over left, left toe onto a nubbin down left on the ramp and slide a kneebar in and bounce left hand to one of the edges. Then place right heel where other people toe hook below, sag into it, and cross to the jug with right hand. great sequence.

[aly]

OK, cheers for the beta guys.  I'm sure there will be something in there that will work, I saw the toe-hook and was trying to figure out how to best use it so I'll give that a go. 

[Scouse D]

Cofe is spot on with the kneebar beta. In the top vid at 1.03 he puts in the kneebar just stick it in deeper and  keep it in for the next move also. Wear jeans if you want it to work really well! All other beta is harder.

[measles23]

Hmm - these two vids start the traverse in different places - which is right? Shelf right of the crack or sitter at the base of the crack?

Also has the flip-flamingly obvious link of reversing Jon's trav into the main traverse been done?

Lovely place

Cheers, Matt

[dave]

Start sitting.

[Ethan]

The kneebar is definitely the way forward, works a treat.

[Andy B]

Start sitting.

...but in the crack. In the second video Ben is two or three moves left of the crack.

[north_country_boy]

Start sitting.

...but in the crack. In the second video Ben is two or three moves left of the crack.

I don't remember it being that obvious that it is a sitting start. However it definately starts further right as you said. Seemed a bit contrived starting sitting, and its certainly no harder than starting where I started in the first video. Liek someone has already said, it would be nice to link it into the traverse across Ten Inch Zombies for the full haul...

[Andy B]

Fair enough, I just meant start at the crack really, rather than left of it, I defo wouldn't argue with your tick, starting even further right.

[dave]

Start sitting.

...but in the crack. In the second video Ben is two or three moves left of the crack.

back around Ben.