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Limp Lizard - Churnet (Read 2371 times)

jowgli

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Limp Lizard - Churnet
March 02, 2011, 11:41:08 pm
Just wondered what the deal was with limp lizard at gentleman's rock. it gets 7b in the guide but if you have arms you can jump from the starting hold to the break without touching any other holds really easily :S it says morpho in the guide but most people would be able to do it this way. anyone done it/got opinions on it?

joeisidle

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#1 Re: Limp Lizard - Churnet
March 03, 2011, 12:09:35 am
I've climbed with tall climbers who can't do it this way, one of whom is over 6ft with a plus 3 ape index.

Nan

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#2 Limp lizard
March 03, 2011, 06:40:57 am
Im 6 foot 1 with plus three and did it that way. Catching the tor was still hard but more like 7a than 7b pulling off the slope on the lip felt much harder

jowgli

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#3 Re: Limp Lizard - Churnet
March 03, 2011, 10:29:56 am
i agree with Nan that trying to use the intermediate holds makes it harder  :-\ oh well, still need to actually go and do it, the top hold was soaked when we were there yesterday so left it alone...

dave k

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#4 Re: Limp Lizard - Churnet
March 03, 2011, 11:38:26 am
Just wondered what the deal was with limp lizard at gentleman's rock. it gets 7b in the guide but if you have arms you can jump from the starting hold to the break without touching any other holds really easily :S it says morpho in the guide but most people would be able to do it this way. anyone done it/got opinions on it?

I have done it using the sloper and think it is 7b, but soft. I did try it a few years back, when it was still a project and don`t remember thinking a big throw to the top was an option. Having said that I will have another look next time i am there.

I use a weird foot jam and imagine my sequence would be hard for lankmeisters.

Krank

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#5 Re: Limp Lizard - Churnet
March 03, 2011, 12:08:08 pm
you have got to use the sloper on the problem, it is glorious, jumping through just aint cricket.

jowgli

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#6 Re: Limp Lizard - Churnet
March 03, 2011, 02:25:55 pm
the sloper method does sound fun, when i've run out of other things to try i may spend some time working the eliminate where you have to actually use the holds lol but until then the top is the top i suppose, as it says in the guide, morpho  :whistle:

joeisidle

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#7 Re: Limp Lizard - Churnet
March 03, 2011, 10:38:07 pm
My point wasn't that you shouldn't do it that way Jowgli, I just doubt that 'most' people could do it like that.

 

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