[cofe]

Anyone got any info on this. Had a quick look today and there seems to be a big-ish scar under the roof right where I imagine you might want some holds. There's a tiny crimp before, some crimps near the lip, and, other than that, not a lot. Any info appreciated. Cheers.

Also, anyone done Wishbone?

[Bonjoy]

Don't know of anyone but Nige doing NR. Harris has done Wishbone. I've tried Wishbone, it's very dabby and tough at 7b, but mostly due to the effort/tension required to avoid dabbing!

[cofe]

Wishbone pretty much goes due right from the start holds on the central 6c line, out to finish towards the gap between the block it's on and the adjacent one...?

[dave]

Me and banks have done nige's roof. Dont remember much. Tiny crimp/s heeltoes in back, some better holds, then that sloper pocket round the lip?

[Bonjoy]

Wishbone pretty much goes due right from the start holds on the central 6c line, out to finish towards the gap between the block it's on and the adjacent one...?

Yes exactly that. Limbo dancing on rock.

While we’re on Gardom’s North questions does anyone know anything about the sit start to Alcove Nose (hanging left pointing arete in recess left of Ben’s Bulge and that highball nose prob, used to get a big B grade now only gets 6b+ (someone has voted it to 6a+ on peakbouldering.info))?  In the BMC guide it gets V8 and is described from a “sit start in the crack” which implies that it starts in the hand crack on the left which would render it an arbitrary eliminate as the difficulty would depend on how high you exit the crack. Pb.info gives it 7b+ and has slightly different wording “sit start in the crack in the back”, which implies it might start in the horizontal break under the starting roof, which could be a decent problem. Does anyone actually know what the sketch is with grade, line, who did it etc?


Edit: Removed pointless insult

[cofe]

Another one, while we're at it: A Tasty Graunch is always described as R-L. Is this correct? The 'line' (used in the loosest possible sense) looks like L-R.

[Norton Sharley]

I've certainly always done it R to L perhaps because this is the way you walk in to it!  Description to finish might be better as only use the top to mantel out the top, or something. In English.

[cofe]

OK cool, thanks.

[Bonjoy]

Tasty Graunch was done R-L by the FA Simon Jones

[cofe]

I only ask as the cleaned holds below the top always appear to run L-R, to the crack and the water filled scoop. Maybe it's another problem.

[Bonjoy]

There's also various random chalked holds under the roof on the left. It does look like maybe someone has done/tried another line.

[nai]

was it all dry when you were there yesterday, cofe?

Kidneystone & MRD specifically..

sorry about the 

[cofe]

Both damp I'm afraid; Kidneystone had its back to the wind, and Mark's Roof had some drainage streaks. Bits were dry here and there, but not much.

[Monk]

While we’re on Gardom’s North questions does anyone know anything about the sit start to Alcove Nose (hanging left pointing arete in recess left of Ben’s Bulge and that highball nose prob, used to get a big B grade now only gets 6b+ (someone has voted it to 6a+ on peakbouldering.info))?  In the BMC guide it gets V8 and is described from a “sit start in the crack” which implies that it starts in the hand crack on the left which would render it an arbitrary eliminate as the difficulty would depend on how high you exit the crack. Pb.info gives it 7b+ and has slightly different wording “sit start in the crack in the back”, which implies it might start in the horizontal break under the starting roof, which could be a decent problem. Does anyone actually know what the sketch is with grade, line, who did it etc?

I'd love to know the answer to this too. It was one of the hardest problems I've done on paper (depending on which resource you use) but I'd love to get a consensus. I did the obvious line from sitting from the horizontal break as that seemed most logical.   

[Bonjoy]

Nice one, that looks like the way to do it and a decent sit start. What grade did you reckon?

[Monk]

I'm not sure I can give a reliable estimate on the grade as it was close to the top of my game so I don't have much to compare it to, and it suited my style of short and hard. It was definitely harder than 7a and felt hard, but while I would love it to be 7b+ I'm not really in a position to grade it objectively (plus I haven't been on it for several years).

[cofe]

Anyone got any info on this. Had a quick look today and there seems to be a big-ish scar under the roof right where I imagine you might want some holds. There's a tiny crimp before, some crimps near the lip, and, other than that, not a lot. Any info appreciated. Cheers.

Watched Somebody's Fool and another strong chap do this today so have cleared it up. Slopey shelf, to two small crimps, to the holds under the roof near the lip right of the pocket, out right to Mark's Roof and finish up this. Looks really good.

While we’re on Gardom’s North questions does anyone know anything about the sit start to Alcove Nose (hanging left pointing arete in recess left of Ben’s Bulge and that highball nose prob, used to get a big B grade now only gets 6b+ (someone has voted it to 6a+ on peakbouldering.info))?  In the BMC guide it gets V8 and is described from a “sit start in the crack” which implies that it starts in the hand crack on the left which would render it an arbitrary eliminate as the difficulty would depend on how high you exit the crack. Pb.info gives it 7b+ and has slightly different wording “sit start in the crack in the back”, which implies it might start in the horizontal break under the starting roof, which could be a decent problem. Does anyone actually know what the sketch is with grade, line, who did it etc?

Also went and looked at this. The logical SS appears to be LH on a sidepull ound left, RH on something on front face, feet on the scrappy ledge underneath, and then up. I guess you could start underneath with hands on the shelf, but the rock quality is poor and it's very very low. Certainly no crack to the left anyway. Looks tough.

I also learnt I still can't do Mark's Roof.

[dave]

Looks really good.

I think it would be a classic if it was further than two foot from marks roof LH.

[Andy B]

Nice holds and moves, just a shame it's so close to MRLH. The holds under the lip being shared by both problems. The way Dave and I did this was a fair bit easier than how Nige did it. Basically exactly the same sequence, but instead of the tricky jump and swing round the lip that Nige did, we brought our feet out from the back a move earlier to make it a much easier but less fun reach to the dish.

[Somebody's Fool]

That's how the other fella did it yesterday. Looked pretty powerful though.

If you're accurate/lucky and hit the best bit of the Mark's Roof hold with your right, I wouldn't have thought it's much harder to do the jump/swing. Plus, it's such a brilliant move it's easy to forget you're on such a tight line. I'm not sure it's been mentioned yet, but it's pretty close to MRLH.

[Nigel]

I think its worth mentioning, as it seems to have been overlooked, that this line is extremely close to MRLH.

That said, it is an obvious eliminate, i.e. climb direct through the roof to the good hold where you join the crux on Mark's Roof, without using the big flake on MRLH. So you start on a big ledge, move via small crimps to a crux move to the lip. I did this with a flamboyant jump, waving to the crowd with my free hand with my crystal white teeth sparkling in the off camera flashes of the massed paparazzi. Suppose you could do it another way. Like SF says a good move, worth doing while waiting for your girlfriend to do MRLH.