[mark s]

Is there anyway to train stamina without doing long problems or routes as getting to a wall is not possible more than once a week.when on the rock I'll always try and get a long stint not touching the ground.
Anything else?can it be done on a finger board?

[tomtom]

Is there anyway to train stamina without doing long problems or routes as getting to a wall is not possible more than once a week.when on the rock I'll always try and get a long stint not touching the ground.
Anything else?can it be done on a finger board?

Yup - just do endurance deadhangs - or stick a chair a couple of ft back from the board and do alternate hands/holds with feet on the back of the chair (takes some weight off the hands). I do a little circuit on my beastmaker this way to warm up, alternating holds etc.. one foot on one foot off etc.. works diff sides of the core. But doing it until you drop (a few min) would be piss boring mind!

[Serpico]

It's not recommended - it's shit-boring, and I think there's more risk of repetitive strain injuries because there's so much overhead work with little variation in arm position, but I used to work away a lot and I came up with this routine for use in my hotel room with a screw in pull up bar and a pair of rockrings:
 
Pick 2 holds and pull up,
put your right heel on a chair in front of you and stiffen your body (like in a front lever, but not parallel to the floor).
move your right hand to a new hold,
take your foot off the chair and do a pull up
repeat the sequence starting with the opposite hand.

A few minutes of that seemed to get a worthwhile pump going.

[Adam Lincoln]

A few minutes of that seemed to get a worthwhile pump going.

I can think of easier ways to get a worthwhile pump going in a hotel room.

[Serpico]

A few minutes of that seemed to get a worthwhile pump going.

I can think of easier ways to get a worthwhile pump going in a hotel room.

Tug TV's too expensive.

[Adam Lincoln]

A few minutes of that seemed to get a worthwhile pump going.

I can think of easier ways to get a worthwhile pump going in a hotel room.

Tug TV's too expensive.

That's what the wank bank is for 

[mrjonathanr]

I bought some rock rings a year ago and haven't really used them. Coincidentally I've been injured for that year so trialled this the other night, plan to persist for a while in between sessions at the wall.

Bit of a warm up, pull-ups / hangs on bigger holds.
1 x Frenchie on smaller hold of your choice. nb count 10 seconds for each up, lock, and down. ie 90 seconds total.
Rest 1 minute. 20 press-ups. Rest 1 minute. This is one rep.

Repeat this cycle a few times.

That's a set. select number of sets and resting times for yourself. This way you train antagonists and get pumped silly at the same time. Felt hard to me. I managed one set with five reps before giving up.

[Dexter]

also general cardio/fitness since the better your heart and lungs are the more blood and oxygen you can pump around your body the less pumped you will get

[Serpico]

also general cardio/fitness since the better your heart and lungs are the more blood and oxygen you can pump around your body the less pumped you will get

Doesn't work like that for climbing unfortunately.

[Robbie_Phillips]

also general cardio/fitness since the better your heart and lungs are the more blood and oxygen you can pump around your body the less pumped you will get

Doesn't work like that for climbing unfortunately.

It does help though!

[Serpico]

also general cardio/fitness since the better your heart and lungs are the more blood and oxygen you can pump around your body the less pumped you will get

Doesn't work like that for climbing unfortunately.

It does help though!

No, it doesn't. The musculature involved in climbing (upper body, particularly forearms) is too small to challenge the heart and lungs ability to deliver oxygenated blood.
There's lots of research out there on this.

[Probes]

[/quote]

No, it doesn't. The musculature involved in climbing (upper body, particularly forearms) is too small to challenge the heart and lungs ability to deliver oxygenated blood.
There's lots of research out there on this.
[/quote]

Yes it does! If your on 20 a day and 8 pints of Hopstar! Otherwise correct.

[Serpico]

You don't look like a Hopstar man.
Going to Longridge in half an hour if you're up for a masterclass in endurance.

[The Aaronator]

Going to Longridge in half an hour if you're up for a masterclass in endurance.

 

[The Aaronator]

On a more serious note... you should take a peak at Andy F's training regime in power club....

Goals - 8b, 7B+.

Tues - circuits at the Hanger, then some random problems to finish off. 60 problems in 2 hrs.
Wed - beastmaker. 40 mins repeaters and pull-ups
Thurs - rest
Fri - 45 mins intensive beastmaker repeaters and pull-ups.
Sat - family
Sun - Trowbarrow bouldering. Get spanked on everything I tried, but at least I failed on a harder grade of problem than usual, which is an improvement of sorts. Felt beasted afterwards, which was good.

Andy is by no means a 'stamina monster' but his workout seems to keep him in good enough condition to make real progress. Note that he only climbs indoors or outside twice a week and has been for ages. (now lets wait for a wise comment from Serpico)

[Probes]

You don't look like a Hopstar man.

Why what do i look like? 

Going to Longridge in half an hour if you're up for a masterclass in endurance.

Im sure it will be but some of us have jobs 

[jakjak]

serpico's method's pretty sound - use his method and use the seat of the chair along with using a big hold, you can go for ages like that and get some pump on - the resting part is the bit that seems to do wonders (for me at least) knowing that i can rest on a certain size hold on (effectively) an overhang is a definate psychological boon.