[JohnM]

I did a search of the site but couldn't find much information about climbing in the Calanques.  Google didn't turn up too much information apart from the official topo site which is in French.  I am thinking of going there in January.  I know it can get very cold but I think it could be alright if we stick to sheltered spots.  I was wondering if people had any first hand information about which crags are best, cheap nearby accomodation etc.  Also does anyone know which is the most up to date/best topo?  I heard on UKC that the authorities are going to ban some areas beacuse of the mess they have been left in but I can't figure out which areas have been banned or if the ban is already in place?  Cheers for any info, John.

[Paul B]

Sorry I can't help directly with any of your questions but calanques has been recommended to us by tonnes of people whilst we've been travelling and looks stunning.
There was no mention of any bans just one great crag in particular with huge routes.
The guys we met said they'd been in November/December and it was ok just very dependant on what the wind (the mistral) was doing.

[JohnM]

Cheers Paul.  All the information I find is like you say people saying how good it is but not much in the form of detailed area information apart from the official website.  I might just give it a go anyway!

[neil h]

send this guy a message http://www.vimeo.com/user1061144

sorry about the vimeo account, but thats how I talk to him we message each other, he knows all you need to know, all the banned stuff, the people to phone to get into certain areas, plus loads of secret type areas,

good luck

[JohnM]

Thanks Neil, I have messaged him.  Although the bit about phoning people to access certain areas is already ringing alarm bells and putting me off!

[neil h]

Thanks Neil, I have messaged him.  Although the bit about phoning people to access certain areas is already ringing alarm bells and putting me off!

dont worry, might be nothing, I have been talking to him about DWS down there, I think the crags we were going to visit to do this may be on private land

[JohnM]

It certainly looks a beautiful area.  I have actually been before years ago before I got into route climbing and ended up cliff jumping, playing five aside footy in a small car park and drinking stubbies!

[neil h]

we got stuck there all night years ago, the local kev's decided to have an all night rave and blocked us in, not on purpose, but trying to sleep in the car next to it all in the end we gave up and joined in 

[Paul B]

Does anyone have any beta on good places to stay? We're considering Calanques as a 'Royal Wedding Venue'? (Or maybe Ablon)

[Climbapaedia]

No bans in place yet but it has been discussed with the area due to become a National Park later this year. The bans (if they happen will be to protect areas with sensitive flora / fauna).

For information on all the climbing sites in the Calanques as well as places to stay take a look at: http://www.climbapaedia.com/en/plan/

If you click on the region Marseille / Calanques you can take it from there.

Also an interesting article here (if you are after long easy multi-pitch stuff):

http://www.climbapaedia.com/en/articles/getting-lucky-in-the-calanques/

Ollie

[Paul B]

Thanks for that. We found a Gite for a reasonable price around ~15 minutes away and we'll be there over there in a couple of months time I think.

[Climbapaedia]

Any recommendations for decent gites (really hard to find around there) gratefully accepted and I will add them to our map so other climbers can find them.

Hope you have a good trip.

[Paul B]

Any recommendations for decent gites (really hard to find around there) gratefully accepted and I will add them to our map so other climbers can find them.

Hope you have a good trip.

I'll have to hold off on the rec' until we get back, its only a small one (2 people, perfect for us) but it seemed easy enough to find them on Gites de France etc.?

[Climbapaedia]

Its the good ones that are hard to find so let me know what you think. Hope you get some good weather (bloody hot for early March down here at the moment)!