[chris05]

STG: more 7A's
MTG: 7A+/7B

M: 4.5m run, weights, theraband & core
T: swim (40l crawl), weights, theraband & core (500)
W: 4.5m run, weights, theraband & core
T: swim (40l crawl), weights, theraband & core (500)
F: rest, pub & rugby
S: 4.5m run, theraband & core (500) - then rugby and beer
S: bouldering at cratcliffe and RHS

Had a few niggles so I have taken it easy this week, just keeping up some fitness stuff. Should have got another 7A yesterday but snatched failure from the jaws of victory as I relaxed a little too soon on the top-out!

[GCW]

Short term goals
Do my local cross country (5.8km) in under 30 minutes (big ask I think)
Sort out the bad knee.
Tick something, anything, from my 2011 aims list!

Medium Term goals
Climb font 7c in 2011 (still a bit ambitious).
Continue trying to keep the weight down (aim for 83kg)- also a bit ambitious!
Do my Winter Hill run in under 43:12 (average 10kmh).
Finish off my remaining esoteric Lancs Quarry projects.


M-  Nothing.
T-  Nothing.
W-  West View with the Bearded Midget, a bit limited as most was being re-set.  Generally felt weak, no stamina.  Rubbish.
T- Nothing.
F-  Nothing.
S-  Nothing.
S-  Nothing.

Monday weigh in of 88kg.   

[ummagumma]

STG: Climb 7A by end of March

M Bouldering I/D. OAV. Meh. Shoulder was a little iffy so took off a few days.
T Rest
W Rest
T Rest
F Bouldering I/D. OAV. Trying hard problems at my max. Upping the tempo.
S Bouldering O/D. Tum. not ideal conditions. Tried two 6C+ and a 7a and got nowhere!
S Bouldering O/D. Zil. nice conditions. shortish playtime. Ticked a really nice 6B+ and lower stuff. Tried a 7A which the first move shut me down - I got close though.

4 sessions is a week is good going for me so would like to keep that up. I have to learn to give more effort on send attempts. 

[Falling Down]

STG: Need to figure out for Feb

Had a week of hard work in Kazakhstan so wasn't expecting much.

M - Nowt
T - 30 mins on treadmill, squats and pressups
W - Nowt
T - Nowt
F - Travelled back from Kazakhstan
S - Afternoon of volume bouldering at Awesome Stockport with TomTom and Galpinos. Pretty good session considering the week.
S - Hungover/Chilled out

Had quite a good indoor session on Saturday..  Hopefully working from home all week this week so should manage to train/recover every day and maybe even get outside.

[webbo]

STG
start climbing
LTG
god knows
Mon.leeds wall going okish ran out of omph fairly quickly but managed not injure myself.
Tue.nowt
Wed.rockcity.repeated all the problems i did pre injure then did the problem i injured myself on.got tired fairly quickly.
Thu.deadhanging session a bit tentive as my lower back went in to spasm warming up.
Fri.nowt.  wine and painkillers.
Sat.back inproving.decieded against climbing.deadhanging increased duration of hangs to 8 secs.weights more gains on benchpress.bike 2hrs 15 mins.
Sun.bike 2hrs 25 mins.

seem to keep damaging myself at the moment.

[slackline]

STG
start climbing
LTG
god knows
Mon.leeds wall going okish ran out of omph fairly quickly but managed not injure myself.
Tue.nowt
Wed.rockcity.repeated all the problems i did pre injure then did the problem i injured myself on.got tired fairly quickly.
Thu.deadhanging session a bit tentive as my lower back went in to spasm warming up.
Fri.nowt.  wine and painkillers.
Sat.back inproving.decieded against climbing.deadhanging increased duration of hangs to 8 secs.weights more gains on benchpress.bike 2hrs 15 mins.
Sun.bike 2hrs 25 mins.

seem to keep damaging myself at the moment.

At least you've achieved your short term goals.

[Barratt]

Monday, nowt
Tuesday, Works purple circuit
Wednesday, Routes at Edge
Thursday, nowt
Friday, nowt
Sat, Nowt
Sunday, Matrix

Getting back into it after being ill, starting to feel good again.

[apharri]

Mon: Rest

Tues: Anaerobic cap @ Edge
          Aerobic cap @ Edge

Weds: Circuits @ works. Best attempt so far on circuit. Completed on my final attempt with one slip half way through

Thurs: Rest

Fri: Rest

Sat: Anaerobic Cap
       Weights

Sun: Bouldering
        Circuits.. Feeling good agian. Managed it without the slip this times but fell off three moves from end.

[fried]

After bet with missus - STG - Touch my toes by the end of the month.

There is a trick to this and I'm not setting you up. If you go up and down quickly on your legs doing semi-squats whilst flapping your arms up and down - let loose it looks ridiculous - then after 20 secs of this I bet you can touch your toes.

It confuses the back into not tightening up.

Just tried that and gained about 3 inches, unfortunately still leaves me a couple short. Although I reckon with a five minute stretch this one's in the bag, thanks for helping me win my bet, get my prezzie/ food / money or sexual favours 

[Muenchener]

I am "recruiting" my previous "hypertrophy", though Shark tells me this is very passé these days

What? 

I was about to start doing that too. What should I do instead?

[tomtom]

STG 7B+

M: rest
T: Depot Session
W: Cheeky Almscliff trip... more slight progress on Underhand... its looking more and more like it will yield soon..
T: Depot session in the eve.. I was shattered afterwards!
F: rest
S: Logport wall. Met up with FD and Galpinos  good to meet you... again felt monstered afterwards...
S: Rest

A week of plastic and consolidation. Starting to feel stronger and lighter...

[apharri]

I am "recruiting" my previous "hypertrophy", though Shark tells me this is very passé these days

What? 

I was about to start doing that too. What should I do instead?

Depends what your goals are  ie Boulders/ Routes (any particular)? Trips planned? What have you been doing last few months? Injuries? Weaknesses?

[Muenchener]

Thanks.

I was actually largely joking, and am operating at a level where fine distinctions probably make no difference anyway.

But since you ask: current goal is onsighting sport routes in Arco at Easter. I spent November & December emphasising ARC / aerocap / volume. Am now spending January & February mostly bouldering, and in March plan to do a few weeks power endurance stuff - 4x4s, indoor redpointing etc.

... then go to Arco and crush.

The "what?!" was regarding the fact that I thought somewhere in February I ought to shift my bouldering emphasis from "problems I can do" to "problems I can't do" - "threshold" in SCC terminology. To some degree it's happening of its own accord anyway, as I run out of easy pickings on the target circuits I have set myself at local walls.

[apharri]

Thanks.

I was actually largely joking, and am operating at a level where fine distinctions probably make no difference anyway.

But since you ask: current goal is onsighting sport routes in Arco at Easter. I spent November & December emphasising ARC / aerocap / volume. Am now spending January & February mostly bouldering, and in March plan to do a few weeks power endurance stuff - 4x4s, indoor redpointing etc.

... then go to Arco and crush.

The "what?!" was regarding the fact that I thought somewhere in February I ought to shift my bouldering emphasis from "problems I can do" to "problems I can't do" - "threshold" in SCC terminology. To some degree it's happening of its own accord anyway, as I run out of easy pickings on the target circuits I have set myself at local walls.

In that case have a fantastic trip 

[Three Nine]

Anyone got tips on climbing very sharp routes without bleeding everywhere?

I hate having rubbish skin....

you mean the little ear you go to with your right hand? Try being as static as possible to it.

[chris_j_s]

Aims: UK 7a onsight, 7b+ redpoint in 2011

M:
T: Ingleton PE Circuits. Better session, warm up then twice round a 48 move circuit (~6c+/7a), failed 3rd time. Also 2x 6c circuit and 2 x 6b+ circuit.
W:
T: Ingleton PE Circuits. Still failed 3rd time round on the big circuit but getting several moves further. Also did 6x various other circuits between 6b and 6c.
F:
S: Ingleton strength session. Decided to mix things up with a more strength based session. After warm up spent 30 mins on hard problems (problems taking 4-5 goes) - then spent 45 mins on the 45 degree woody. Warmed down with 1x long 6c+/7a circuit and 1x 6b+ circuit.
S: Ingleton PE circuits.  Failed 3rd time around going for finishing jug on long 6c+/7a circuit. Then did 2x 6c ish roof circuit, 2 x 6b circuit, 2x 6b+ circuit and 2 x 6c circuit.

Thanks to a visit to the depot last week I've identified a weakness and crucially have a bit of focus and direction again. Making gains almost every session and the arms have been destroyed which seems like a good sign to me!

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: Same

M: Nowt
T: General bouldering @ The Castle followed by 3 x 10 minute AeroCap sets.
W: Nowt
T: Nowt
F: 4 x 10 minute AeroCap sets on my board.
S: Nowt
S: 4 x AnCap sets @ The Works - Good hard session.

Managed to get in a fair bit of the plan while flitting between Sheffield and London. Not been able to do the 4x4's I should have done  as not had anyone to climb them with. Even if I did I doubt I would have found any free routes at the Castle...

Next week: Try and do as much of the plan as possible again.. Should be back home and back on track soon.