[nik at work]

Whilst out climbing today somebody mentioned some Spanish sandstone bouldering. However the limit of their knowledge was:
1) That it was in Spain
2) That it was sandstone
3) That it was bouldering

Is anybody able to pad out this scanty information with some facts?

[nik at work]

It's Albarracin isn't it? God I'm a fucking donut.....

[account_inactive]

There is also stuff around Lleida and Madrid so you are not too much of a plonker

[GraemeA]

Patta has been spurting about this place http://picasaweb.google.com/WildCountry1/SantaGadeaFontainbleauLikeSandstoneBoulderingInNorthernSpain

It's 3 hours from his house but thats all I know. Guess its not north as he lives on the coast 

[neil h]

There is also stuff around Lleida and Madrid so you are not too much of a plonker

its all granite round madrid

[dave]

albarracin is indeed sandstone and in spain.

[slackline]

Another possibility is Savassona or Cervia both mentioned (along with other areas)  in this article.  Check out the amazing boulder (had trouble embedding the picture before)

[n_man]

It's Albarracin isn't it? God I'm a fucking donut.....

  Some things just don't change 

[robertostallioni]

Found this...
http://blog.rockrun.com/2008/12/review-ebloc-bouldering-in-spain.html

[slackline]

Found this...
http://blog.rockrun.com/2008/12/review-ebloc-bouldering-in-spain.html

Another possibility is Savassona or Cervia both mentioned (along with other areas)  in this article.  Check out the amazing boulder (had trouble embedding the picture before)

 

[robertostallioni]

Fair-do's Slackers. Ignored your article as I figured it was about Savassona/Ceriva. Had some mates go to El Escorial back in the day. Supposed to be ok, but the the highlight of the trip was convincing a particularly gullible member of the party that the Spanish for "Jamon" was, in fact, Porkio.

[Percy B]

Albarracin is now (according to a friend who returned last month after visiting 4 years ago when it was just being discovered) a bit knackered to say the very least. The usual shitting at the crags problems and access issues have been surpassed by a new sort of stupidity - namely climbing classic sandstone problems after heavy rain, thereby breaking all the holds! Many of the good problems are now either ruined, vastly different from the original version, or just un-climable. Its a damn shame I think, but its a problem of people just not knowing what they are doing. I was told that there were big groups of boulderers trying damp problems and then being surprised when they kept breaking holds! Its a shame....

However, El Cogul is a way smaller area, and the weather is normally a bit hotter meaning that its way less popular. Its got some very, very good problems though, and is worth a visit - just try and hit a cold snap. Savasona is also a small area but has some very good blocs, and some spicy highballs. The routes here are awesome too, with a number of Ramonet's hard offerings for you to try (just up to 9a though....)
All these areas are sandstone, although the likeness of Savasona to Font in that guidebook was a little over-ambitious...

[dave]

I was in albarracin a year ago and it was fine. specifically which classic problems are we talking about? a lot of the classics rarely get wet.  its a big place, so unlikely to be instantly ruined.

[Percy B]

Dunno - just what I was told (by sombody whose opinion I trust when they tell me that problems were getting knackered). I guess my point is that sandstone is a particularly fragile rock, and climbing on it when its wet is asking for trouble. Albarracin is a big place, but there isn't that much climbing given the size of the place - a lot of the rock is banned or just not that good for climbing. There is plenty to do still, but given how busy it now is, and how 'well used' a lot of the problems are, it's kinda lost its appeal to me as a place I'd want to return to.

[fashionguru]

Just been out in Spain,

Visited 4 sandstone venues including Albberacin and El Colgul.

Whilest not been able to climb much at Alber I did notice that some problems, but not many, were a little on the (well lets say) different side to when I was last there.  I would say that this area is taking a battering and it will only get worse but so did font(in a different way(before anyone jumps on my back)) when it became popular.  I think problems will change but most will stay as they are. 

El Cogul on the other hand in my opinion had seen the most breakages and lots of problems had changed from my last visit. (saying that on my last visit in perfect conditions I managed to break a hold of a 7b+ I was trying) I just think the sandstone of these areas are friable and holds will keep breaking but will not detract from the overall enjoyable experience of climbing there.

On a positive note one thing that did hit me was the lack of shit and bog paper that was around at Alber. I am not saying it was not there but nowhere in the amounts that I had seen last time.

Hope people are not too put of by this and enjoy their trips.

But I think it is fair to say please respect the areas do not litter or shit at the crags, park where indicated and most of all do not be tempted to climb until the rock is totally dry.

Tony Simpson

[dave]

cheers for the update tony.

[Oldmanmatt]

There are increasing access problems at El Cogul, the new road to the east makes area 10 etc difficult and on the weatern edge a new visitor centre for the rock art is going to make area 1 dicey! Still great though. Not recommended for a solo trip as the landings are pretty steep. Generally found my mat turned into a snow/sand board on landing!
Savassona, is excelent. I think the stone here is a little more resilient (though it trashes your fingers very quickly). The EBloc topo is pretty good, though the grading is unusually subjective! You'll find plenty of 7a/b's that you will cruise up and then a 6a+ that will stump you for hours!!!

[SA Chris]

So nothing like Font grading then.

[Paul B]

cheers for the update tony.

To answer your earlier question, a lot of things on the Sol boulder (the problems climbed by kehl in a dosage) have lost holds. They're still climbable and not at some stupidly hard grade either.

Percy isn't wrong. Peninsula has suffered greatly since I first visited with everything under the roof section now being polished to a level stoney would be proud of. Anyone for a nice shiny gaston?

However, the Sandstone (like a lot of places) is very variable. Areas such as Aeroline are reminiscent of Grit, where as the end of peninsula looks like holds might blow away in the wind!

I hope Tony is right about the toileting but I can't honestly see how; they allow van camping in the car park and there's nowhere discreet to go.

So nothing like Font grading then.

The rumour was that the ebloc guide graded what they tried and everything else was done by sight. The whole topo was done in a shockingly short amount of time and its easy to see how the guide is so hit and miss (although the maps are actually really good).

[Oldmanmatt]

 :dance1:Was up at Savassona yesterday and met up with some locals I know from Climbat (wall in BCN). There is a new Topo for Sava and it's a fair bit diff from the Ebloc, includes new sectors etc. Grading is different for alot of routes (surprise ). It seems it's only available in the local gear shops around BCN at the mo. Thinking of all the UK bound, while lazing between blocs in 26 DegC sunshine............. Mind you, suffering serious Rock Rash and trashed fingers today, could hardly hold me starbucks...... "Half Past Rome" is still Bl***y impossible for me, regardless of the Topo.......

[IS2]

This has some useful info once you get past ramblings about gas.

http://mickystainthorpe.blogspot.com/

[Oldmanmatt]

New Savassona topo. Published by Editorial Alpina. www.editorialalpina.com .