Which bits/routes are banned?
I remember Courage Fuyons (sp?) 7a being a good line although I might be confusing it with Rose de Sable. Os Court is a very onsightable drilled/chipped 7b(+).If bouldering is your thing, then Excess de Zeal is worth a shot (v short 7c ish).
One unsung little gem that I remember really enjoying was a little route called Entreprise (I think) at 7a. Climbs a rounded arete on slopers (think Ulysses or Bust with bolts and no friction. I couldn't/can't climb steep limestone to save my life so I thought this little gritstone style route was brilliant. 'Twas 18 years ago though, so some or all of the above might not be entirely accurate.
One thing to be aware of is that the grades are generally "Old Skool" (as in correct)
Can anyone else name this route before Sharpe eyes does?Looks pretty good
I liked Reve to be honest. It should also be noted that I didn't do it, and Jon's route book comments are correct, it is polished, there are no footholds and the pockets are sharp - whats not to like ;-) Rose des sables looks amazing.