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the cube at The Cube (roaches) (Read 2714 times)

simon40

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the cube at The Cube (roaches)
June 10, 2011, 09:19:28 am
Just looking for directions on the problem-the cube-does this go up from the good hold on the pube using the right hand horizontal break, or direct in between the two horizontal breaks not using either-the guide says the crux is the lower section, although its very thin up there........

ta

joeisidle

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#1 Re: the cube at The Cube (roaches)
June 10, 2011, 11:44:39 am
Unfortunately I haven't been there myself but there is this rather good video of it which may help:

JS

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#2 Re: the cube at The Cube (roaches)
June 10, 2011, 12:41:00 pm
I was one of the team in the video above. I think we just started using LH on big pebble and RH on/near arete.

The hardest moves for me were definitely initially pulling on, then the moves just after this. Above this the moves are ok and the holds are fairly positive and not as thin as it looks from above, although it helped that some of the others had shown the way before me.

Really good problem and well worth the walk  :)

highrepute

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#3 Re: the cube at The Cube (roaches)
June 10, 2011, 04:03:16 pm
As in the vid, although I think the guide gives it 6b and we all thought a bit more like 6c. Really excellent problem well worth the walk.

simon40

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#4 Re: the cube at The Cube (roaches)
June 10, 2011, 05:09:42 pm
thanks all although i cant still get an idea of where this goes exactly. I begin with the start to pube, moving left accross the wall and back right to the good break-where the pube finishes direct up the arete-i guess my question is, does it avoid this break and just shoot straight up the all (left of the break).


cheers

highrepute

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#5 Re: the cube at The Cube (roaches)
June 10, 2011, 07:43:42 pm
The Cube starts on near the right arete then trends leftward to finish directly up the middle of the block. We didn't use the good break at all and I think this is how the problem is meant to be climbed.

I'm not sure whether you are meant to use the right arete to start but judging by the video it looks like we all did. I think it seemed a bit eliminate to not use the arete to start.

andy popp

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#6 Re: the cube at The Cube (roaches)
June 10, 2011, 08:00:03 pm
Exactly, c'mon Simon the video shows precisely where it goes!

The woman at the start of the video really bones the fuck out of every hold. Excellent! That's what I call climbing.

Steamboat Stello

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#7 Re: the cube at The Cube (roaches)
June 10, 2011, 09:57:14 pm
Afraid your not gonna get much clearer info on the line and the moves than a video showing the problem from 3 different angles! Much as you might want it I'm afraid your not gonna find colour-coded holds at the Roaches like you might find at the local climbing wall  :thumbsup:

Eddies

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#8 Re: the cube at The Cube (roaches)
June 11, 2011, 03:33:58 pm
Welll said, it is a boulder 'problem' afterall.
Just start with left hand on the pebble and follow the crimps to the top, vearing slightly left to miss the big break (using it actually makes the climbing harder!)

 

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