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Short smeary slabs near hathersage (Read 5666 times)

calum

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Short smeary slabs near hathersage
November 23, 2010, 08:19:32 pm
I'm looking to climb some friction slabs, ideally ones that don't involve much pebble pulling.  I've looked at the guidebook but keep being disappointed, looked at Swooper last week which was much edgier than I'm looking for.  Anything within walking distance of hathersage would be ace, usually end up at the plantation bivying and quite happy to go there again.

 
Grade wise could do 6a moves, probably could do 6b moves, 6c possibly, happy with bold routes as long as they're fairly short so I can tell myself I wont hurt myself falling off them.

Doesn't have to be a classic.

Cheers
Calum

calum

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#1 Re: Short smeary slabs near hathersage
November 23, 2010, 08:24:30 pm
Also ideally involving no high rockovers.

Cheers
Calum

Ru

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#2 Re: Short smeary slabs near hathersage
November 23, 2010, 08:33:47 pm
Margaret! Etc.

underground

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#3 Re: Short smeary slabs near hathersage
November 23, 2010, 08:47:15 pm
Margaret! Etc.
Ideally with a pirate themed name?

Paul B

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#4 Re: Short smeary slabs near hathersage
November 23, 2010, 08:59:31 pm
The one to the right of Brads Arete at Eagle Tor was fantastic. I really do miss climbing there.

Fiend

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#5 Re: Short smeary slabs near hathersage
November 23, 2010, 09:02:32 pm
Counts Butbutbuttttress area surely?

Johnny Brown

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#6 Re: Short smeary slabs near hathersage
November 23, 2010, 09:18:24 pm
Seem to remember a few pebbles up there. I'd suggest the big triangular slab on the south side of Higgar, the little slab near remergence, and Pedlar's area and the lone boulder on Stanage.

lagerstarfish

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#7 Re: Short smeary slabs near hathersage
November 23, 2010, 09:59:16 pm
With this being in the "chuffing" section, is Calum after actual routes rather than boulder problems?

If its boulder probs. Then what JB said. And since they don't have to be classics, I'll suggest the daft eliminate No Bull, by Bull Worker at Le Plantation de Stanage.

fatdoc

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#8 Re: Short smeary slabs near hathersage
November 24, 2010, 08:22:13 am
centre of slab on the left of the pock wall at burbage boulders. if you miss out the foothold on the right it's awesome. Pack the base carefully with pads.

Bonjoy

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#9 Re: Short smeary slabs near hathersage
November 24, 2010, 08:43:30 am
Boulder prob wise how about Beauty up at High Neb. Short route wise how about Puss and Pup, both also High Neb area.

SA Chris

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#10 Re: Short smeary slabs near hathersage
November 24, 2010, 09:18:21 am
Seem to remember a few pebbles up there.

Solution is to just not use them!

Johnny Brown

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#11 Re: Short smeary slabs near hathersage
November 24, 2010, 10:01:38 am
I'm not using solutions. Do I look like a fool?

SA Chris

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#12 Re: Short smeary slabs near hathersage
November 24, 2010, 10:15:06 am


There is a vague similarity.

Jim

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#13 Re: Short smeary slabs near hathersage
November 24, 2010, 10:25:35 am
well you bought an overpriced laptop word.

2nd bonjoys recomendation of beauty. feels hard till you learn to stand on your feet with confidence.

Andy B

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#14 Re: Short smeary slabs near hathersage
November 24, 2010, 03:59:10 pm
...or bone the fuck out of the pebbles.

Steve R

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#15 Re: Short smeary slabs near hathersage
November 24, 2010, 05:36:34 pm
Funny one for me beauty - I seem to remember struggling in a smeary pair of shoes then switched into quite new toe-down mode, front point skewered the foothold and it felt way easier though a bit less like slab climbing.  Might well have just been inept footwork on my part though.  Nice problem.

What about deliverance face traverse as good test of slab skills?

Andy B

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#16 Re: Short smeary slabs near hathersage
November 24, 2010, 05:42:55 pm
Here are some more smeary boulder problems in that area:

The two 7a slabs at either end of Burbage South
Home Cooking Slab
Pebble Mill Traverse (uses edges and handholds too, but success depends on sticking smears)
Sex Dwarfs
Green Death Superdirect

The one to the right of Brads Arete at Eagle Tor was fantastic. I really do miss climbing there.

That's a long walk from Hathersage!

Rocksteady

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#17 Re: Short smeary slabs near hathersage
November 30, 2010, 11:04:15 am
Seem to remember a few pebbles up there. I'd suggest the big triangular slab on the south side of Higgar, the little slab near remergence, and Pedlar's area and the lone boulder on Stanage.

I really enjoyed padding up the V2 6a slab problem on the Lone Boulder at Stanage. Short but very sweet.

grimer

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#18 Re: Short smeary slabs near hathersage
November 30, 2010, 04:17:11 pm
The 'Girlfriend' boulder  ;D

grumpycrumpy

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#19 Re: Short smeary slabs near hathersage
December 01, 2010, 02:17:22 pm
The Useful Block has a couple of nice slabby problems , the one in the middle does have a pretty high rock -over , at least that's how it felt to me , but I do have dwarf legs  :)......  The sort of triangular shaped slab at the far end of Burbage South edge goes at about 6a+ ..... 

 

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