[joeisidle]

Having played on this for the first time today I have a question for any churnet devotees lurking on here; what is the sequence for the end of the low traverse at Ousal going right to left? The moves to the low sloper about 3/4 of the way across seem steady and from there I can get to about a metre away from the good hold you use to move up to the last hold. However, despite spending a good while trying many different sequences I couldn't find a way to do the final bit into the last move. So, unless I'm just being a wuss and not kranking hard enough, I would be much obliged if anyone could tell me a good sequence from the low sloper onwards?

[aly]

If it makes you feel better the whole traverse boils down to those 4 or so moves after the sloper really, sorry!  Right, from what I can remember it goes something like this (well, for me anyway):

Match sloper, get small crimpy slot above with RH then go out left for the small sidepull thingy with LH.  Sort feet out here, I had RF on the worn scallop and LF way out on the sidewall low down I think.

Bounce LH out again to the shallow scoop/pocket thing, take RF off and flag, then bring RH onto the sloping intermediate crimp in front of your face.  Use this while you bounce your LH out of the best bit of the scoop and put your RH onto it, allowing you to then reach the good 2 finger pocket with your left.  Sort feet out.

you can probably go up from here at an easier grade but I assumed you had to go another move or so left here for the full tick.  Get the left edge (pebble and thumb sprag) of the pocket that your RH is in as a sidepull, and use this to move out left with LH for a crimp as a press.  Bring RH into the 2-finger pocket and reach out left again for the leftmost good crimp.  Then move up as for the easy problem.

No idea if that works for you, or if I'm even remembering it right. 
I should add the caveat that I haven't done it, but I kept getting to that bit feeling strong only for my mud-covered feet to peel off the holds when I was least expecting it, though I think that's the only reason that anybody ever fails on Churnet traverses really, you just need to embrace the mud.
hth

[Paul B]

This is going to be of little use I'm sure but I went off a small edge with a polished pebble pinch, then threw out towards the first hold of the easier up problem with my left. Once you're here the feat are much better and it eases off.

[Eddies]

Aly's sequence sounds about right. Basicly you keep low, keep your left foot as far left as poss and snatch your way thro a couple of dirty crimps and a tiny L/H pinch untill your just left with a tricky move to get R/H past yourself into the 2-finger pocket and then you can swing left to the good pockets that lead thro the lil roof and onto the jug that marks the start of the high trav.

Needless to say RU's grade is way out... Its 7B all day long.

[Offwidth]

Not just Ru then, its V6 in latest BMC which I thought was our equivalent of 7a.

[Eddies]

Not just Ru then, its V6 in latest BMC which I thought was our equivalent of 7a.

Yes V6 is 7A... .Do you think Ousal low is correct at this grade?

[Nan]

I used to find the last move of the traverse before you move up to be the crux, finally ticked it then when i last went back i noticed that someone had torn off the key pebble I used for my right hand and can no longer do the move.

[joeisidle]

Thanks for the tips everyone, I think I still may struggle with this beta  as I was finding (my strength on) the pocket before the end pretty shit. My experience on it feels pretty similar to Neil's tbh.  Something to work on I guess 

[Offwidth]

Not just Ru then, its V6 in latest BMC which I thought was our equivalent of 7a.

Yes V6 is 7A... .Do you think Ousal low is correct at this grade?

I cant climb V6... like all guides we take the best local info we can find at the time.

[Eddies]

OK well I'm a lot more local to the churnet than RU (who may not have even got on this trav) and I'm happy to give 7B/V8 to anyone who does ousal low. Wrights is easier imho

[chris05]

OK well I'm a lot more local to the churnet than RU (who may not have even got on this trav) and I'm happy to give 7B/V8 to anyone who does ousal low. Wrights is easier imho

Excellent, could you please write the next guide book? I haven't linked it yet but would be surprised if its 7b, none of the moves are particularly hard, its just linking them all together (obvious I know), probably more like a sport route than a normal boulder problem.

Although I haven't put much effort into wrights, what I have tried has seemed, for me at least, much harder than anything on ousal low.

[Eddies]

That's just my honest opinion. Ask a few more locals what they think. Only 1 hard move on wrights just after half-way, ousals crux is right at the end, like you say, suites a sport climber. All good training

[chris05]

That's just my honest opinion. Ask a few more locals what they think. Only 1 hard move on wrights just after half-way, ousals crux is right at the end, like you say, suites a sport climber. All good training

Fair enough, I'd happily take a 7b tick when I do it, but would feel better about it if it could be changed in the guide! 

[mini]

probably more like a sport route traverse than a normal boulder problem.

Not wanting to get into a grading debate, and I'm sure Ru would agree, his opinion is always for the one big move on Wrights to be harder than the multiple fingery moves on Ousal Low. Having spent plenty of time on each, they are both around the same grade, somewhere near the 7b bracket.

[measles23]

Some vids..

From youtube:

not quite but sets the scene...

And from the depths of my hard drive an old beta-stitch:


Grades shmades,  I don't remember questioning it and I do think Wright's is a bunch harder, but that might be the pain talking

[joeisidle]

And from the depths of my hard drive an old beta-stitch:

Measles you legend!    Pretty much exactly what I was looking for. I'd seen the other video before but she falls off pretty much at the move I was stuck on so it didn't tell me much. The bit that seemed unfathomable to me was getting from LH in the poor pocket at 0.26 to the big hold that you slap up from, so at least I know to try matching in roughly the same place next time

[measles23]

Got a sneaky feeling I might have used slightly different beta when I did it but this sequence would have worked - also I've got the stamina of a wheezy flea so i wouldn't worry about needing to be fit to do it!

[aly]

Are you allowed to finish up early like in the second vid?  Looks like a nice way to do it, I'd just assumed you had to go further left to finish on the final jug.  Don't suppose it matters that much either way.

FWIW I think Wright's has one desperate hard move and feels like it might be worth 7B (if I can ever even do the move).  I fell off the last move of Ousal (going further left) and have never really climbed proper 7A so didn't think it was undergraded.  Both of these are much harder than the full Virgin Traverse which is probably nearer F7a than Font 7B IMHO.

[Andy B]

I ... have never really climbed proper 7A...

Both of these are much harder than the full Virgin Traverse which is probably nearer F7a than Font 7B IMHO.

If you haven't done 7a, how have you done the Full Virgin Traverse?

I thought it was significantly harder than both Ousal and Wrights.

[aly]

I thought it was significantly harder than both Ousal and Wrights.

Hmm, that's weird.   I guess it's much more vertical but I found it miles easier than either of the other two (neither of which I can do).    You can use your feet at least!

[Ru]

OK well I'm a lot more local to the churnet than RU (who may not have even got on this trav) and I'm happy to give 7B/V8 to anyone who does ousal low. Wrights is easier imho

Not only have I done Ousals Low, I've done it several times. For argument's sake I think this is about the same as Wrights and a fair bit easier than the full Virgin/Long wall traverse. I wouldn't argue with 7a+, but don't think that both Ousal Low and Full Virgin can be the same grade.

[rainbow]

Umm interesting. Am I right in thinking that if people find ousal low hard they find Wright's a bit easier and vice versa?? Personally find ousal low a lot easier. Is this due to the usual excuse of height??.  If you are a "tall un" you can simply yard from the big holes on wrights like the Leek lot do  where as on ousal you gotta use the smaller holds.

Are we saying its as hard as Jerrys at cratcliffe?

[Eddies]

Umm interesting. Am I right in thinking that if people find ousal low hard they find Wright's a bit easier and vice versa?? Personally find ousal low a lot easier. Is this due to the usual excuse of height??.  If you are a "tall un" you can simply yard from the big holes on wrights like the Leek lot do  where as on ousal you gotta use the smaller holds.

Are we saying its as hard as Jerrys at cratcliffe?

I think you may have hit the nail on the head. Im a lanky streak of piss and live nr Leek!
Grades apart there all really great traverses.. Go get em joeisidle 

[joeisidle]

Umm interesting. Am I right in thinking that if people find ousal low hard they find Wright's a bit easier and vice versa?? Personally find ousal low a lot easier. Is this due to the usual excuse of height??.  If you are a "tall un" you can simply yard from the big holes on wrights like the Leek lot do  where as on ousal you gotta use the smaller holds.

Are we saying its as hard as Jerrys at cratcliffe?

I think you may have hit the nail on the head. Im a lanky streak of piss and live nr Leek!
Grades apart there all really great traverses.. Go get em joeisidle 

You mean I can't just start a grade debate and run away? Bugger, better get training