UKBouldering.com

Quality Boulder Problems Disguised as Routes (Read 3989 times)

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9956
  • Karma: +563/-9
Quality Boulder Problems Disguised as Routes
January 30, 2004, 04:08:01 pm
There's loads about. Here's a few peaky ones:
Down To Earth - Bamford
Art of Japan - Curbar
The Jackelope - Moorside
Mini-micro, Suzanne, Mounting Frustration - Stanage
The Runnel - Black Rocks

dave

  • Guest
not too sure about down to earth as a problem, i lead it cuz the gear is good.

what about artless? you know i can fall a long way off that......
also:
germ - stanage
finger distance - curbar (well, only if you can so the top ok)
shock horror slab - stanage
daydreamer - stanage

they are all superb without exception.

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9956
  • Karma: +563/-9
Quote from: "dave"
what about artless? you know i can fall a long way off that......

  :lol: That's got to be the best attempt at climbing a slab footless ive ever seen.

dave

  • Guest
i would actually have been ashamed of that episode, if it wasn't bloody hilarious at the same time. :8)

Adam Lincoln

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4950
  • Karma: +111/-30
    • Flickr Page, Vimeo Videos and Blog
Quote from: "Bonjoy"
There's loads about. Here's a few peaky ones:
Down To Earth - Bamford
Art of Japan - Curbar
The Jackelope - Moorside
Mini-micro, Suzanne, Mounting Frustration - Stanage
The Runnel - Black Rocks


Tierdrop - truely awesome!
NTBTA - goes without saying
Crescent Arete - ditto

Johnny Brown

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 11490
  • Karma: +703/-22
Bellyporker's progress, Brimham. Absolutely superb varied climbing up a nice steep arete. Only slightly highball. About font 7b...

...and for free you also get to ground-up an E7!! :shock:Bargain.

Lets face it this is what grit is all about - the blurring of the line between soloing and bouldering. Pads have just given us another 10ft to further confuse the guidebook writers.

Jim

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Mostly Injured
  • Posts: 8629
  • Karma: +234/-18
  • Pregnant Horse
    • Bouldering POI's for tomtom
Renegade master?

ian h

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 537
  • Karma: +1/-0
about 75% of southern sandstone.

just most people opt for a gay top rope.

stack those pads tis the one

grimer

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1578
  • Karma: +144/-1
#8 Quality Boulder Problems Disguised as Routes
February 02, 2004, 11:48:45 am
Grizzly Arete at Cratcliffe,
Finger of Fate at the Clouds on the Roaches,
Starlight and Storm on Hen Cloud,
Routes on Oldridge Pinnacle in the Churnet,
Satin, DIY, Four Star, Sithee, Torture Garden at Stanage

Avoiding the Traitor

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 558
  • Karma: +0/-0
#9 Quality Boulder Problems Disguised as Routes
February 02, 2004, 12:02:31 pm
Jack the traverse (churnet)

Scouse D

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1375
  • Karma: +73/-2
Owt on Lady Jane wall at Pex hill, loads of highball stuff disguised as routes. Nice ones being Catalepsy V7/E3, bernie V6/E4 monoblock V10/E3... I'm guessing the E grades but you get the idea!

Craig M

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 15
  • Karma: +0/-1
Quote from: "dave"
not too sure about down to earth as a problem, i lead it cuz the gear is good.

what about artless? you know i can fall a long way off that......
also:
germ - stanage
finger distance - curbar (well, only if you can so the top ok)
shock horror slab - stanage
daydreamer - stanage

they are all superb without exception.


Shock Horror Slab is a quality problem. I'd also add Acid Reign at Rivelin to the list as well.

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9956
  • Karma: +563/-9
On a Rivelin tip: Cool RunningV4 and it's brilliant direct finish Phase Action V8.

dave

  • Guest
we did cool running starting on the left arete but i don't know if thats cheating.

acid reign looks ill.

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9956
  • Karma: +563/-9
There are a few variations on CR, the original and best starts on the right and goes diagonally left. Phase Action goes direct from this start and is double bum!!

dave

  • Guest
yeah we tried PA in mistake for CR - i seem to remember getting to a pebble and a slope or something and then the difficulty suddenly increases tenfold. :shock:

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9956
  • Karma: +563/-9
Andy Chrome put this up in the pre-mat era at E4 6c, but it's safe with pads and spot. From pebble and sloper crimp you chuck one on with your right for a diagonal sloper. A very class prob and probably unrepeated for years. Probably the 7b+ end of V8.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal