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Looking for something easy in North Devon (Read 2848 times)

The Unknown Stuntman

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Looking for something easy in North Devon
August 17, 2010, 06:48:42 pm
Hi

I'm off to North Devon (Barnstaple area) next week and looking for some nice easy stuff to have a go at. Nothing over v3, maybe with a nice walk/beach nearby to keep the wife happy....

Any suggestions?

Cheers

SA Chris

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Lynmouth? AFAIK, walk east along the beach, climb whatever you like the look of. Hopefully Granticus will be along to give you more info.

jakes

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Hartland Quay's a good bet, ~45mins from Barnstaple. Lots to go at in the trench etc. Check out Dave's guide here: http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,15358.0.html

Further down the coast at Northcott Mouth (near Bude~ 1hour) there's good bouldering- check out the 2000 edition of the CC North Devon and Cornwall guide for a small topo to the 'Little Big Horn' and other information about bouldering in the area- there are also old OTE topo's if you can get your hands on them... Dave's planning to do a topo to Northcott at somepoint too. Might be the best bet as there's the beach for walking etc.

Lynmouth is a bit closer at ~30mins, but you'll have to use your own initiative as there ain't no topo. Go to the beach and walk along the coast- there's bouldering both to the East and West. Boulder hopping to get to the West. Granticus is 'the guru' for these venues.

Exmoor Coast- lots of bouldering at various other venues depending on your likability of 'adventure'. We did lots of bouldering up to 7a+ at Wringcliff Bay (Beneath the Valley to the Rocks) around 2000-5. Steep descent path.

Small amount of easy bouldering (i.e. one steepish wall) + the 'Static Erratic' as you're walking out to Baggy Point- not really work it though as the quality isn't great.

With most venues checking out the tide's important either for accessing the bouldering or to actually climb.

granticus

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Quote
I once checked this beach area in the South Hams, during a "non-climbing" SW tour with wife + small child. It was fun, as far as I remember.
You could go here but plan for a 2 to 3 (at this time of year) hour drive from North Devon to get there. :thumbsdown:

Quote
I'm off to North Devon (Barnstaple area) next week and looking for some nice easy stuff to have a go at. Nothing over v3, maybe with a nice walk/beach nearby to keep the wife happy....

The perfect venue for your request would be Lynmouth (East), PM me and I might send you an almost complete topo (Yes I found my mojo for this again!) . 20 (locals) to 45 (grockels) mins drive from Barnstaple.  Lots of shops, cafes, fudge shops, pubs, hotels, ice creameries for a spot of lunch etc..

The bouldering is on the beach so that'll keep the missus happy, you will need to go before or around low-tide to have the best of it (tide times here http://magicseaweed.com/Croyde-Beach-Surf-Report/7/tide/uk/#forecastTable add 10 mins ish for Lynmouth), looking good for next week as low tide is in the middle of the day.  Park in the village at the bottom of the steep windy hill, you'll have to pay and display no doubt, drive carefully and try not to burn your brakes out (use gears and take it steady!!).  Walk East along the promenade and onto the beach which has bouldering from V0 to V9 ish..  2nd highest tidal range on the planet so try to avoid getting cut off (at least the water's warm this time of year if you do have to wade a bit!).  You'll be fine 2 to 3 hours eitherside of low water.  Probably enough to keep you going for the week here. 

Lynmouth West as Jake says involves a boulder hop and holds some very fine highball problems, probably not ideal for your purposes.

If you have more time Hartland is great but lacks a lot of stuff in the easier grade range.

For a more adventurous/exploritory day out... If you/ your wife are fit and don't mind walking head through Lynmouth and up the hill towards Countisbury (nice pub here), park in a layby near the top of the hill just past two small stone pillars which mark a footpath entrance (if you reach Countisbury you've gone too far!).  Walk down this footpath rightwards (eastwards) and keep heading down, this is the 'zig zag' path which winds it's way down to 'Sillery Sands' where you'll find lots more (un-documented) bouldering in a very secluded and beautiful environment.  Same rules apply regarding tides.  The walk back out always hurts a little but it really is a special place (take some provisions and don't hurt yourself this is NOT your typical roadside venue!). 

Have fun Exmoor rocks!




 

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