[Monolith]

As training for sport routes is completely unknown territory to me and time is precious, I wondered whether any sagely route beasts might care to offer me some advice.

I don't live terribly near to a climbing wall and at present don't really have the funds to be persistently shelling out for entrance fees. Bearing this in mind, the only facility I have access to for now in my immediate proximity is my fingerboard. As one day on the weekend and the occasional evening session is climbing time, I'd like to know of a way to start devising a routine to help increase my lactic threshold. As I've only ever used my board for bouldering training, not all of the holds are perhaps applicable at this point in time for route training. The top rung is first joint and so most suitable I'd imagine for the bulk of exercises with the third rung down being half a pad. I can hang this for a fair old time and so could incorporate it into a routine. The bottom rung is irrelevant I'd imagine and is only used to build strength and skin tolerance and for PB attempts to see where my finger strength is at at a given point in time. The other holds in the picture below are used as minor assist points for maximising the load on one arm.

Any help in terms of whether I should be training daily, how many sets, duration of hangs etc is much appreciated as a suggested workout. I wish to climb bouldery short limestone sport routes in Clwyd but need to improve my usage of time at home so weekends can be productively spent.

Thanks.

[SA Chris]

I know very little on the subject, but would have thought you could do some repeaters http://www.beastmaker.co.uk/Grip-article.htm to get pumped and thus improve stamina?

[Norton Sharley]

Why have you got a dog turd in a bag hanging off the beam in the background?  Is this part of preparation for Chee Dale?

[Monolith]

  I hadn't noticed that.

Yeah Chris, I thought something along those lines but am not sure how long to rest between sets etc.

[Nibile]

beast.
training for routes on a fingerboard is sour grapes tom, and you know it.
the beastmaker sessions are well good, but please build them up easily, because they are very hard in both volume and intensity and they basically fried my elbows. you do 7" on 3" off for seven times and that's one set. my fault, obviously: I did an easy session and then started doing 15+ sets three times a week. idiot.
anyway, another good option could be the very basic "do pull ups until you puke".
you could measure your PB of pull ups on each hold, then with incomplete rests you start doing pull ups and stop only when you can't perform at least half of your PB. then you do a complete rest and start again.
another good trick I used was this: with 45 secs rests, you do 16-12-8-6-4-6-8-12-16 pull ups. rest and start again.

[Monolith]

It's not ideal is it! The pyramid idea sounds a productive one for sure beast. I'll factor that in to what I've contrived already. Cheers bestia!

[Nibile]

... and anyway remember that unless you want to go up 30 meters lines, a solid power base is more than useful for steep short routes with no need of further training.
I suggest you to also change your style of climbing while on a route, you have to be precise, fast, but no rush. I try to do a very quick shakeout on basically every hand movement. while you are reaching for the next hold you do a couple of squeezes or you shakeout rapidly before getting thenext hold. it helps.
out to class now, the russian girl awaits.

[SA Chris]

not sure how long to rest between sets etc.

Where's that spoon? open your mouth

http://www.climbingworks.com/shop/training/fingerboards/Beastmaker_2000/

See training articles at bottom for program.

All links in Bestmaker thread.

[Monolith]

I was under the impression that you needed to have a beastmaker to complete those exercises. Obviously the principles will be the same.. I should just modify to fit eh.

[SA Chris]

I should just modify to fit eh.

Its a Fundamental Principle of engineering.

[John Gillott]

With memories of a debate on here from a year or so ago... maybe you could do worse than follow this old-school training routine:

“This is a massive deal for me. It’s the best new route I’ve ever done, better than Rubble. Stevie reckoned it was worth five stars!”
Enthused Leigh before explaining his preparation for the route:
“I’ve been training hard and lost quite a lot of weight over the last few months. I do pull ups on a 2cm edge; many, many pull ups, plus loads of core strength stuff and sit ups.”

[chillax]

I went a bit stir crazy over the winter and started following the "fuckloads of pullups" routine. Got up to doing around 1500 - 2000 a week before nearly knackering my elbows. Certainly gets you stronger, and things did feel easier after, but I'm not sure exactly how good it is for your climbing. I'm now one of the strongest E1/2 climbers you'll ever see. And I'd be one of the strongest HVS climbers if it wasn't for learning how to use my feet a bit better!

I'm sure this isn't very helpful, and I know sod all about training for sport climbing either. Sorry Mono! 

[nai]

I took the Repeater principle and worked it into a more endurance based workout, doing 2,3 & 4 minutes of 7on-3off at a lower intensity per hang, resting for 1,2 or 3 minutes and repeating several times.  It certainly makes my forearms pumped so I guess it's doing some good, hard to tell yet as I've only been doing it once or twice a week when I can't get out.

[meatball]

You may not like this monolith, but have you considered dropping the grade you want to climb? Just to gain some mileage. You are more than capable of climbing the shorter routes at Llanulas (sp) but i think you maybe put to much pressure on yourself...

[Gus]

Man up and shell out for some wall sessions, or get out to the crag and do some laps on the cheap!!

[Monolith]

With memories of a debate on here from a year or so ago... maybe you could do worse than follow this old-school training routine:

“This is a massive deal for me. It’s the best new route I’ve ever done, better than Rubble. Stevie reckoned it was worth five stars!”
Enthused Leigh before explaining his preparation for the route:
“I’ve been training hard and lost quite a lot of weight over the last few months. I do pull ups on a 2cm edge; many, many pull ups, plus loads of core strength stuff and sit ups.”

I read that this afternoon too. The future is retro.

Cheers for feedback guys. You're of course right dave with dropping the grade but it still boils down to time spent at the crag being in short supply and my time frame for doing what I'd ideally like to achieve before October. Still, it's fundamentally incontestable and perhaps the repeater modifications suggested here coupled with pyramid pulls and one wall session a week is just the framework I need.

Thanks again people.

[Houdini]

You want retro?


Pyramids of 1 press up (body straight as a plank) then 3 pull ups w/ raised knees.  Then 2 press ups, 6 pull ups.  And so on.

[meatball]

Maybe Chris could put you onto a 8meter-ish power route? Did you try The Wirral Whip

[webbo]

 old school training for short powerful routes.
pullup,pressup,hanging knee/leg raise,dip and a sit up. do 1 then 2,3,4,5,5,4,3,2,1 then rest then repeat to your hearts content.

[Monolith]

Maybe Chris could put you onto a 8meter-ish power route? Did you try The Wirral Whip

Had a brief foray when Mike did it but in time would like to get involved.

The future seems pyramidal!

[ksjs]

Hi Tom,

Keith here (we know each other from AWCC). if i was you id just get out on the crags: youre strong enough and i think the best way to build stamina is to get on routes. also, route climbing is so much more 3d than bouldering i.e. there are many more variables to control and work on and the best way to start dealing with these is to get on some routes.

it does though depend on what your objectives are and where youre at already? if youre talking the likes of Dinbren id tick my way through to where you want to get to. in other words do the 6b and 6b+ beside each other on the left wing (The President's Brain or similar) and then do the 6c and 6c+ beside each other (Just Another Route Name) on the right wing. After that maybe go: Climb High, Technicolour Yawn, Fire, Ice (the LHS of these two is the easier so do that first), Walking With Barrence (not easy for 7b), I Punched Judy... and The Bandits (not easy for 7b+). i havent done anything harder there but some of these are outstandingly good (The Bandits must be one of the best at the grade in the country).

if you work your way up like this youll get confidence in the rock, your route abilities and at the same time youll be gaining route stamina and general route skills. if youre really concerned about stamina it might be worth saving some pennies and getting to AWCC and doing laps on stuff once a week for 4 weeks, that would give an improved base.

disclaimer: that lot is just random thoughts and im no expert.

hope all good and to see you out there some time... cheers, Keith

[Monolith]

Eh up Keith! Good to hear from you mate. That's an ace list of routes to tick through thanks gangster. Drop me a pm with your number if you can and I'll let you know when I start to head there more regularly. Hope all's well!

[ksjs]

Eh up Keith! Good to hear from you mate. That's an ace list of routes to tick through thanks gangster. Drop me a pm with your number if you can and I'll let you know when I start to head there more regularly. Hope all's well!

Hey Tom, im now in north wales, best thing ive done in a long long time - brilliant to have such good climbing nearby but house renovation (it was/is a bit of a building site) is pretty time-consuming though we're getting there. Dinbren/Clywd quite a trek nowadays so im tending towards Pen Trwyn for sport. i also had a recent session at Llanddulas though and really enjoyed it - theres a few things im keen to head back for. mobile is 07985 920376 - give me a shout if youre at a loose end or over with the liverpool lot.

another thought: those Dinbren routes are probably quite good for people who mainly boulder as theyre short and powerful. i guess the flipside of this is however that theyre not ideal for stamina. i dont like the aspect very much but Penmaen Head (and indeed Castle Inn) could be better stamina building options?

[Monolith]

Nice to hear you're settling in mate. I'll drop you a pm here....